Finally starting an addition on our shed

[Deere Dude]

I really hope you get it covered really well so the insulation don't get wet. Once you get a dry spell you will have to go like a rapped ape to get the roof on.

Looks like a fun project..

 

[STx]

I really hope you get it covered really well so the insulation don't get wet. Once you get a dry spell you will have to go like a rapped ape to get the roof on.

Looks like a fun project..

We've been dry since May. Only got 1" of rain from Harvey, it all went North of us.

 

[STx]

Today's progress. We'll finish up the walls that aren't attaching to the existing building tomorrow and then I'll have to take a break. My wife has to go to Cypress Sunday for doctor appointments next week.amd I can't raise walls by myself. We'll cover it with Tyvek when we pull siding off the shed but, I don't really want to leave it open any longer than I have to.

 

[EddieWalker]

Are those 8 foot walls or is the shed does the shed have six foot walls?

Why no header over the window frame?

Are you using 2x6's for a temporary building?

 

[STx]

The shed is almost 7' on the edges, the addition is getting 9' ceilings on both floors, so sayeth the wife so it shall be done.

It's all 2x6 exterior framing, not that much more expensive and the extra insulation should save enough electricity to offset the extra cost pretty quickly. We only plan to live in it for a few years but, the structure will stay as a guest house when we build a permanent house. Plus, you never know what the future holds.

I cheated on the window header because it's 2x6 and the studs are doubled up or very close. I should probably change it, it's one of those things that'll probably be fine but isn't technically right. We're using the same metal siding that's on the shed and a corrugated metal roof so there's less weight than there would be with Hardie and composition shingles and there will be an interior wall 6' from here that the load will get spread to. It's just a stairway landing above that window.

 

[STx]

After a little break for Dr appointments and rain (FINALLY), we were able to make some progress yesterday. First floor is completely framed, we should get the 2nd floor joists and decking done today, I hope.

I'd like to have it dried in by Monday.

 

[EddieWalker]

Good progress. What is that header for with studs under it in your last picture?

You should google "California Corner Framing" before framing up your second floor and look at the images. Its a way to frame your walls so you can get insulation into the corners.

 

[STx]

That's the bottom of a window in the stairwell that will split the 2 floors. I wasn't sure if I needed a header underneath it but, lumber is cheap enough I figured better safe than sorry.

I'll look that up, thanks for the suggestion. My plan was to insulate the corners before the house wrap and dry in but, it makes running the electric a pain sometimes. I'm guessing it's turning that nail edge stud flat instead of on edge?

 

[EddieWalker]

The pictures explain it better then I can on here. It's really simple, just as strong, but not what a lot of people do if they haven't heard of it before.

 

[STx]

I just Goggled, it's what I guessed. It's a good idea, I do that where interior walls meet exterior, don't know why I didn't think to do it with corners. It'll make infrastructure stuff easier also.

 

[LincTex]

The connection of the 2nd floor to the existing building is also going to allow us to create an attic area over the existing building to house a/c ducts so we can go ahead and install central air. These window units are killing us on the power bill.

Considering the footprint of your addition, you should seriously consider mini-split units.
They are even over SEER 20 and affordable.
They use FAR less electricity per BTU than any central air system.

 

[STx]

Considering the footprint of your addition, you should seriously consider mini-split units.
They are even over SEER 20 and affordable.
They use FAR less electricity per BTU than any central air system.

I did consider mini split and there are a few reasons why I don't want to go that route. First is that I'd need at least 5 heads to get the whole place covered and that would not include bathrooms, where I do want vents. That means at least 2 units and they're more expensive up front, although the self install aspect can help with that. My biggest objection to them though, is the fan noise. That's one of the things I hate about the window units and while the mini split does eliminate the compressor noise in the room, the head unit still gives the fan noise and takes up wall space. I want quiet and not taking up space on the walls anymore, our vertical space is really at a premium.

I've run the numbers and will probably only go with a 16 SEER central air, above that and the payback period gets so long for the increased initial cost as to not be worth it. The only thing "special" that we're going to do is zone the master so my wife can turn it down to 64 at night without having to cool the whole house to that level.

I can get a 3.5 ton 16 SEER split heatpump with 100kw heat strip for about $2400, plus another $800-$1000 for installation. Duct work and startup is outside my skill set.

 

[ustmd]

I did consider mini split and there are a few reasons why I don't want to go that route. First is that I'd need at least 5 heads to get the whole place covered and that would not include bathrooms, where I do want vents. That means at least 2 units and they're more expensive up front, although the self install aspect can help with that. My biggest objection to them though, is the fan noise. That's one of the things I hate about the window units and while the mini split does eliminate the compressor noise in the room, the head unit still gives the fan noise and takes up wall space. I want quiet and not taking up space on the walls anymore, our vertical space is really at a premium.

I've run the numbers and will probably only go with a 16 SEER central air, above that and the payback period gets so long for the increased initial cost as to not be worth it. The only thing "special" that we're going to do is zone the master so my wife can turn it down to 64 at night without having to cool the whole house to that level.

I can get a 3.5 ton 16 SEER split heatpump with 100kw heat strip for about $2400, plus another $800-$1000 for installation. Duct work and startup is outside my skill set.

STx, I hear you on the AC decision and can appreciate the upfront costs.

I kow this was not a determining factor, but the head on my mini split is much quieter than my central HVAC system. I can't say that this is true for all units--I have a Mr Slim unit for my home office and I can never hear it run.

 

[STx]

Made a little progress over the weekend. With just 2 of us, it was a challenge getting the 2x12x20 joists into place, the tractor definitely earned it's keep. Second floor is framed and decked, today we're working on the exterior walls.

I'm not super excited about getting the ceiling and roof framed, I'll probably go ahead and buy some scaffolding for that and the siding, I know it'll come in handy in the future.

Eddie, I didn't do a lot of blocking in the floor joists, mostly on the edges, the furthest being about 10' apart. Would you recommend more than that? It feels solid but adding more now is pretty trivial.

 

[EddieWalker]

Blocking should be in the middle of the span, and the boards used for blocking should be the same height as the joists. They should be installed vertical, like the joists are, to be effective.

Give that your spans are so short, I don't see any need for blocking.

If I was doing it, I would double up your joist that you have your joist hangers attached to, and then put a header over that window in the last picture.

 

[STx]

Thanks. The joist they're attached to is 9' 6" span where they're attached, it's a full 20' 2x12. I can easily sister in a piece on that span.

I used 2x12 for the joists to give me plenty of room for ducting. In theory, I should've been good to a 16' span, if I read the tables correctly.

I was probably going to put a header on that window, just hadn't gotten there yet.

 

[STx]

Today's progress.

 

[EddieWalker]

I didn't notice this before, but where are you jack studs for your headers?

I like to put my temporary diagonal bracing on the inside of the wall so I can leave them in place when I put my OSB on the outsides of the wall.

That's a great view!!!

 

[STx]

First time I've ever heard of a jack stud. Nobody taught me any of this, I've figured things out on my own from observation. Oh well, better to make mistakes on this than the real house...lol. It's too late to fix the windows that are done without taking the walls apart. I'll put them in the remaining windows though, thanks for pointing it out.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

But now your windows will be narrower.