Ford Backhoe Serial decode request

[Palpater]

Hi Folks, I’m new here and recently became the owner of an older Ford backhoe, 3-cyl diesel.

I am having difficulty finding a replacement starter. Part of the problem is I am not too sure year and model.
I am wondering if someone can help me decode my serial# and provide the model and year?

Thank you.

Model: df511f
Engine: 3d20a
???nit: 3e10b
Trans: 3030b

 

[TractorTech]

DF511F
DF5 = 555 industrial flat deck
1 = Diesel engine
1 = no lift or PTO
F = 4x4 torque converter auto reversing transmission

3D20A also date code = April 20, 1983, day shift
3 = 1983
D = April
20 = 20th day
A = Day shift
The year isn’t real important as the Ford diesel starter from 1965 on will work.

Messicks has this, but aftermarket search D8NN11000CE will yield lots of options

New Holland Parts | Buy Online & Save

New Holland Parts from Messick's, right priced parts service with knowledable New Holland parts technicians. Shop online or call our Parts Hotline.

www.messicks.com

 

[Palpater]

DF511F
DF5 = 555 industrial flat deck
1 = Diesel engine
1 = no lift or PTO
F = 4x4 torque converter auto reversing transmission

3D20A also date code = April 20, 1983, day shift
3 = 1983
D = April
20 = 20th day
A = Day shift
The year isn’t real important as the Ford diesel starter from 1965 on will work.

Messicks has this, but aftermarket search D8NN11000CE will yield lots of options

New Holland Parts | Buy Online & Save

New Holland Parts from Messick's, right priced parts service with knowledable New Holland parts technicians. Shop online or call our Parts Hotline.

www.messicks.com

Thank you for the details. I thought the backhoe was older than it is.
Regarding the starter: The part number you provided crosses over to a Napa part number 91-17-8882 that I tried but does not fit. The original starter has a pointed bendix housing and the rear end of the starter is chamfered around the back of it, that appears critical to allow the starter clearance to swing into position past the fuel pump. So far I have tried two replacements and both have the more rounded bendix housing and no chamfer on the back. I even tried loosening the fuel pump but I still need about 1/4 more clearance. I am stuck with one of the wrong starters that I had purchased, so I think i am going to try to grind down some of the bendix casing to see if I can get it to squeeze past the fuel pump.

I am open to any other ideas.

Thanks again

 

[TractorTech]

The’trick’ to installing Ford starters is to install the motor end first, tip the bendix end up and into the starter hole. They don’t look like they are going to fit and sometimes, when you are about to give up, they slip in. I have had customers swear the starter is wrong. I have personally busted knuckles trying to get them in and I too thought it was wrong, but that is the starter, Ford did not allow any extra room to get the starter in and out easily.

 

[Palpater]

Thank you for the tip. I will try it again, now and report back.

 

[Palpater]

Success!!!!… It worked. You made my day. Thanks again.

One more question. I am also replacing the ignition switch. I did not realize my original switch has both a right turn start position and a left turn start position. Is the left turn position for the glow plugs? I never could figure how to activate them or if it even had glow plugs. The machine is in very rough condition and all the electronics have been butchered or disabled. It is strong machine though and the heat still works

 

[TractorTech]

Glad I could help. You aren't the first and definitely not the last to struggle with a Ford starter.

The LH position is for Cold Start, because it does not have glow plugs. When you turn it to the left, it is supposed to be wired to turn the engine over while activating the cold start aid which is a plug like device in the intake manifold that puts diesel over a heating coil into the intake. When working, the cold start warms the air in the intake really well.

 

[Palpater]

Glad I could help. You aren't the first and definitely not the last to struggle with a Ford starter.

The LH position is for Cold Start, because it does not have glow plugs. When you turn it to the left, it is supposed to be wired to turn the engine over while activating the cold start aid which is a plug like device in the intake manifold that puts diesel over a heating coil into the intake. When working, the cold start warms the air in the intake really well.

Ahh, good to know. Would it be safe to assume that the cold start is working if that wire is pulling high amperage through my meter? Is there a better test? Is it easily repairable if not working? Cold starting would be handy here in the north east.

 

[TractorTech]

I don't know how much current draw there is, but you could just put a jumper on it and feel the manifold to see if it is warming up considerably. The coil alone will warm the area around it. The fuel introduced by it may or may not add to warmth as it works best as air is being pulled in making the fuel more vaporized.

 

[Palpater]

Thanks again for all your help. I have another issue but think it best to start another thread.