dodge man
Super Star Member
So do you have to be running how water and does the furnace have to running for this to work?
geothermal questions and possible DIY
- Thread starter LD1
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LD1
Epic Contributor
Yes the unit has to be running for it to heat the domestic hot water.
On thing that I am unsure of though....weather it be adding a second tank or only using one......
Is there a circulating pump that circulates domestic hot water through the desuperheater coil? or does it work on natural convection (I think is the correct term), where as hot water will rise naturally and outlet at the top and doings so would thus pull cold water off the bottom of the tank and into the DSH coil?
On thing that I am unsure of though....weather it be adding a second tank or only using one......
Is there a circulating pump that circulates domestic hot water through the desuperheater coil? or does it work on natural convection (I think is the correct term), where as hot water will rise naturally and outlet at the top and doings so would thus pull cold water off the bottom of the tank and into the DSH coil?
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
LD1, I sent you a PM with some pricing info.
There are split geo units, basically for retrofits in existing houses. I put in single package unit, as it is precharged and you just hook up ductwork, and the water loops.
desuper will have it's own circulation pump, mine came with the Hw circ pump built in.
I use the QT non pressurized pumps on my loops, no air tank or pressure problems, they are much more maintenance free than a pressurized pump.
I also headered inside, with shutoff valves on all loops, this makes it easy to purge using your loop pump, no flush cart required. the downsize is more holes thru the wall.
I have the comfort Aire HTV unit. You can get their design guide here:
Comfort-Aire : THE SOURCE for Residential and Commercial Heating and Cooling Equipment.
There are split geo units, basically for retrofits in existing houses. I put in single package unit, as it is precharged and you just hook up ductwork, and the water loops.
desuper will have it's own circulation pump, mine came with the Hw circ pump built in.
I use the QT non pressurized pumps on my loops, no air tank or pressure problems, they are much more maintenance free than a pressurized pump.
I also headered inside, with shutoff valves on all loops, this makes it easy to purge using your loop pump, no flush cart required. the downsize is more holes thru the wall.
I have the comfort Aire HTV unit. You can get their design guide here:
Comfort-Aire : THE SOURCE for Residential and Commercial Heating and Cooling Equipment.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Making the slinkies.
flow pump, with bypass valves. Picture take with pump running and cover off, you can see the water level, and it makes it easy to add the glycol.
Indoor header, unfinished in this picture.
I also made my own flow meter attachment, don't have a picture of it handy.
flow pump, with bypass valves. Picture take with pump running and cover off, you can see the water level, and it makes it easy to add the glycol.
Indoor header, unfinished in this picture.
I also made my own flow meter attachment, don't have a picture of it handy.
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
1250 + full basement
Why did you decide to go with the pressure-less system? Guy I spoke with at terrasouce reccomended a pressurized system, and cautioned using the pressure less system as you cannot use propylene-glycol based fluid as it is too thick, and cannot use methanol based either as an open system allows the alcohol to evaporate and some type of acid to build up. In general, he just advised against them.
MacLawn
Veteran Member
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Interesting. That's wha' mine would be, replacing my current air to air unit, compressor unit outside, other thingamajig (I exhausted my scientific terminology) inside in a small closet built for it way back when me house was built. Just connect to current duct work, eh? My ducts are in attic, pipes come through crawl space. I'll have to check into this.
LD, looking forward to how ye do yours.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
glycol is the safest to use, and there are less problems with a non pressure system. I thinks it's easier to do nonpressurize for a DIY. The design software will size the pump for you, based on your loop lengths and type of antifreeze used. Maybe it depends on the equipment terrasource sells? Looking at their web site, looks like they only sell pressurized systems. It's been a few yrs since I took the geo course, so I don't remember all the tradeoffs.
OP
LD1
Epic Contributor
Terrasource actually will sell both. But the guy I spoke with advised against the non-pressure system. Said he would sell me whatever I needed, but would require me to sign a form stating that I understood the possible issues with using the wrong type of antifreeze in a non pressure system, and he wouldnt warranty anything damaged as a result of using the wrong stuff.
Glycol is neither better or easier to use. It has a lower specific heat, meaning it can not carry as much heat, and it has relatively high viscosity when cold. This results in bigger, or dual pumps. Ethanol based (Environal or equivalent) is the standard in most colder areas today. Also non pressurized systems can lead to rust and corrosion due to the ready supply of oxygen. Except for open loop (well based) systems I have never seen anyone using an "open" system.
Doing a closed, pressurized system is no issue, even for a DIYer.
paul
