Greasing tips for an absolute beginner?

plowhog · Mar 9, 2017

I've greased my MF GC1710 a few times, using a hand held grease pump and lithium based grease. I'm about to take delivery of another tractor, a MF 1758. I want to upgrade my grease knowledge and capability.

I only have a manual grease gun now. I'm considering a Dewalt 20V portable electric grease gun. And just ordered a locknlube fitting.

Somewhere I ready "moly" grease is better? What is that? And I read to wear gloves and use eye protection in case of a high pressure leak.

What else might you know or recommend? And how often do most folks grease? My dealer said every 10 hours. I read here some people grease after every use?

Looking4new · Mar 9, 2017

Winter time plowing snow with the FEL I grease every other time. It take me 3-5 hours to plow everything I do. IF I am snowblowing, then every time I use the blower I grease it. The entire tractor including the loader gets greased every spring and fall. This is in addition to the every other use grease job on the loader.

90cummins · Mar 9, 2017

plowhog said:
I've greased my MF GC1710 a few times, using a hand held grease pump and lithium based grease. I'm about to take delivery of another tractor, a MF 1758. I want to upgrade my grease knowledge and capability.

I only have a manual grease gun now. I'm considering a Dewalt 20V portable electric grease gun. And just ordered a locknlube fitting.

Somewhere I ready "moly" grease is better? What is that? And I read to wear gloves and use eye protection in case of a high pressure leak.

What else might you know or recommend? And how often do most folks grease? My dealer said every 10 hours. I read here some people grease after every use?

Moly is an additive added to grease that increases the load carrying capability of grease and is recommended for loader pins and heavy equipment in general.

The Moly plates the wear surfaces preventing wear during extreme pressure and slow sliding conditions found in loader pins.
I've used Tractor Supply Moly grease with good results.
I have used it for many years with no issues.
90cummins

RNeumann · Mar 9, 2017

I was in the same boat- wanting to use a good product and be safe doing so. The Lucas Red N Tacky gets high praise and is available at Amazon and HD plus several local stores. HD is the cheapest I've seen at about $4.59 each. Folks who know a lot more than me will have more technical knowledge but the main issue with tractors is the type of load. The FEL etc sees impacts unlike a wheel bearing or other car parts. Because of this the grease needs additives that are designed for the impacts.

The gloves you want are made of nitrile. They can be had at Amazon, HD and most auto parts stores. Eye protection is always recommended.

Paul Thornton · Mar 9, 2017

Every 10 hours.

Captain Dirty · Mar 9, 2017

plowhog said:
What else might you know or recommend? And how often do most folks grease? My dealer said every 10 hours. I read here some people grease after every use?

Your owner's manual probably has a recommendation for grease, most likely an EP (Extreme Pressure) moly. Using that grease, the 10-hr recommendation should be OK. Old timers say the grease doesn't matter as much as religiously doing it often (daily, i.e. 8 hrs). Grease is cheap; parts are expensive. You can probably grease every fitting in less time than it would take to replace a pin or a PTO U-joint.

With attachments like the backhoe I grease all fittings and exercise full range of motion before demounting and after remounting.

Fallon · Mar 9, 2017

Molly is nasty black sticky stuff that gets everywhere & is a pain to get off... Makes for a good grease additive, but not so good for clothes & staining.

Unless you have a bolt or seal more grease & more often greasing is never a bad thing. Don't blow out seals on your steering gear with to much grease. Nothing on your loader has any seals on the joints. Otherwise greasing at least every 10 hours is good. It lubes up the joints & forces contaminants out. Worst case is you just get things a bit dirty & greasy outside the joint where it only looks bad but doesn't matter.

I use a Molly grease. But using the "wrong" grease every 10 hours will be far better in the long run than the "right" grease every 15-20 hours. Most greases will be fine, but check with your manufacturers recommendation. Stick wit 1 kind of grease as in theory some greases aren't compatible. As a matter of practice an occasional switch is very unlikely to cause a problem if you grease often.

Texasmark · Mar 9, 2017

1. Go to HF or Lowes and get a box of 100 ea. 5 mil. nyquil (spelling) blue "rubber" gloves, about $9 and worth every penny......be sure to watch for your size. Before you touch anything put a pair on.

2. That gooey crap will get on anything and everything around you when using it. Expect it.

Now that you are adequately indoctrinated, you can proceed with the answers to your questions.

s219 · Mar 9, 2017

One thing I learned is that grease is a heck of a lot cheaper by the pail. I noticed the rate at which I was using/buying tubes and invested in a 5-gal pail. That will last me a long while.

Brazos by Nemo · Mar 9, 2017

Since everyone covered the greasing question I will add I have the 20v DeWalt grease gun you mentioned and it is great.

Looking4new · Mar 10, 2017

Since the grease has been covered, get yourself some good hand cleaner like "fast orange". It smells like oranges and will remove most grease except graphite grease. The only thing I have found that will remove that black graphite grease is skin removal.

The fast orange will cut most of it off, but the residue will just have to wear off.
It doesn't matter if you wear gloves or not, if there is grease on an object you will wear it at some time. When greasing, wear coveralls. the will help to keep your clothes clean. In the hot summer you can wear coveralls with nothing on underneath and still be decently covered.

jeff9366 · Mar 10, 2017

At least one zerk on the tractor usually resists taking grease, usually a zerk on the FEL, usually due to pressure on the pin.

If the FEL is down, lift it somewhat. If the FEL is up, lower it until supported on the ground.

Try the resistant zerk again. It is highly probable the resistant zerk will take grease with the FEL in a different position.

plowhog · Mar 10, 2017

Tremendously helpful information. I'll get some "fast orange." Didn't think about that. Already got the recommended gloves. And I now know how to get past that $#@#^@ zerk fitting that won't accept grease!!

oosik · Mar 11, 2017

I use a high pressure moly grease. The only down side - I usually end up looking like the tar baby from Little Black Sambo. With light colored lithium grease you don't notice, so much, that its spread everywhere. That black, sticky moly grease shows up everywhere.

I have one zerk on the FEL that won't take grease with everything in the "down" position. Easy answer - move the FEL to an alternate position. The grease will flow.........

jeff9366 · Mar 11, 2017

"Simple Green" is another effective grease solvent both for human flesh and tractor flesh.
I buy Simple Green at Lowe's or Home Depot.

Looking4new · Mar 11, 2017

If after doing all of the above and still not getting grease into the joint, get a trusted helper to work the FEL up and down while you try to force the grease into the joint.

yomax4 · Mar 11, 2017

Agreed, Battery powered grease gun is the bomb ! Wonderful for the new boat trailer axles and any hard to reach zerk. Push the button and smile wile it greases. I added one of those quick connects on the hose so the thing doesn't pop off the zerk while greasing. That alone is a godsend. Mines is a Milwaukee 18v but I would enjoy any out there.

Texasmark · Mar 11, 2017

plowhog said:
Tremendously helpful information. I'll get some "fast orange." Didn't think about that. Already got the recommended gloves. And I now know how to get past that $#@#^@ zerk fitting that won't accept grease!!

On most of the "relics" that I can afford, stuck zerks are pretty normal. I replace the easy ones. If that doesn't solve it, I run a drill bit (with a motor attached) down into the hole and when doing that ensure that the pressure is off the joint so that there is a space for the grease to go once you open up the hole. If that doesn't work I have drilled and tapped my own and other times when allowable just smear the mess on with my (gloved) hands.....but my stuff gets greased often.

On guns, I like the hand pump because I can feel what's happening. I tried a pneumatic once but I never knew if it was pumping or just making noise unless I pulled it off the zerk and hit the trigger.

I have about 5 hand pump guns, all for a different purpose. I use Mystic JT6 Red for everything, or whatever red (high temp) is available. Using one grease for everything makes it simpler....but I do have a tube of Moly that I use on special occasions. That is not in a gun. I put that on with a popsickle stick.

Texasmark · Mar 11, 2017

plowhog said:
Tremendously helpful information. I'll get some "fast orange." Didn't think about that. Already got the recommended gloves. And I now know how to get past that $#@#^@ zerk fitting that won't accept grease!!

Gojo works fine as well. It melts grease and paint and has lanolin. Just what you get used to using.

Looking4new · Mar 12, 2017

Gasoline and diesel work good, too. BUT they are both murder on your skin. I have a gallon of stuff outside (I wont keep it in the house, it is an accelerant like gas) that will not only strip the grease off your hands, it will also strip any oils out of your skin. It was used for cleaning asphalt off things you didn't want the tar on, back in the day before it was banned.