Hanging Trailer Chains

[TheTrailerGuy]

Twisting the chain works, but if you have a low trailer, and you twist them to get them off the ground, and you have to take a sharp corner, you can run out of chain if you have shortened them too much. Plus if you leave them hanging and then load the trailer or get into some whoop de dos you can still drag twisted chains. Plus I can hook up a bungee in a lot less time than you can twist one chain, much less two.
People that haul a lot usually figure out what works, but those that just do it every now and then are the ones I usually see with dragging chains. I would hate to know just how much money U-haul charges for damaged chains caused by dragging, and they are the worse culprits, as they put way too much chain on their trailers for the most inexperienced.
David from jax

Make sure to CROSS your safety chains as well. This actually allows you to twist them up a hair (not too much! Just enough to get them about as high off of the ground as the jack) Plus, it is the law. As long as you have a good 4-6" 'droop' in your chains in most cases, you won't ever get them too tight while turning, even in really tight turns or while backing up.

Hope this helps!

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

Never seen that way before, ok for smaller trailers, I wouldn't want it for a 5 ton or up though.

JB.

Actually, i have seen a trailer with the bigger chains mounted this way that come loose when a tow ball broke on a truck. Held 19,500lbs all the way. Seriously strong, as long as you weld it correctly.

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

That's actually a well written law. I'm not talking about the intent, but about how it's worded so a regular person can actually understand what is being said. I do some work on the planning and zoning commission in our city, and it's hard to write a law so that it's robust but still understandable to a layman.

I digress.

I guess that in Washington there's no welding the chain to the trailer. That makes sense from a standpoint that the welding may change the properties of the metal the chain is made from.

I don't know exactly why, but I'm not real keen on drilling holes through this frame to bolt the chain on. It seems the other option is to weld some kind of bracket onto the trailer frame that holds the chain on.

Actually, it is federal law. Welding the chain can weaken the heat treatment, so you have to mount the chain without actually welding on the chain itself.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

The best way to mount safety chains are to create a weld on mount. Hang the end link of the safety inside of it and then permanently weld it to the trailer.. photo shown below .

I think this is my favorite idea.

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

I think this is my favorite idea.

Glad i could help.

Craig
TheTrailerGuy

 

[Rancher Ed]

What they did on our horse trailer is cut a small slot in the frame and stick the last link of the chain (they used 5/16") through.

They then put the biggest bolt that fit through that link and used a nylock nut.

On the bottom of the frame they welded a hoop that the chain goes down through and it makes a great place to hook the chains when the trailer is unhooked.

I like how it works and if I ever build a trailer this is how I would do it. Depending on how thick your frame is I might reinforce it with some 1/8" plate.

Ed

 

[JB4310]

I think this is my favorite idea.

I don't like it, I agree you shouldn't weld the chain, but with the welded loops you can't replace the chain easily. My equipment trailer has the welded loops and I need to replace the chain with a heavier one. now I have to cut it off and I'm back at square one, "what's the best way to hang a chain"
Maybe I could use a threaded repair link or a double clevis on the loop.
The integrity of the welded loop is not the issue for me, it's the permanency of welding a captured link in it.

What they did on our horse trailer is cut a small slot in the frame and stick the last link of the chain (they used 5/16") through.then put the biggest bolt that fit through that link and used a nylock nut.
I like how it works and if I ever build a trailer this is how I would do it. Depending on how thick your frame is I might reinforce it with some 1/8" plate.

Ed

Not crazy about this way either, just does not look kosher, plus you can't visually inspect it with out climbing under.

I'd prefer the u-bolt or double clevis. If you build your trailer, I think it would be easier to drill 2 holes for a u-bolt than cut the slot for the link.

JB

 

[herringchoker]

How can that be legal when you're supposed to have two chains? If the link in the keyhole, or the one on either side of it breaks, you have nothing.

I don't know. It was factory built in 2008 and has all kinds of official decals on it to prove it. It has also passed three annual motor vehicle safety inspections, as required here by law.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Not crazy about this way either, just does not look kosher, plus you can't visually inspect it with out climbing under.

I'd prefer the u-bolt or double clevis. If you build your trailer, I think it would be easier to drill 2 holes for a u-bolt than cut the slot for the link.

JB

K, but it you used a u-bolt, wouldn't you have 2 nuts on each side that you would need to clime under the trailer to check? I'm not sure how the double clevis works.

Ed

 

[JB4310]

K, but it you used a u-bolt, wouldn't you have 2 nuts on each side that you would need to clime under the trailer to check? I'm not sure how the double clevis works.

Ed

Yeah I know, I thought someone might say that, but with the u-bolt it would be tight. you would be able to see/ feel that from the outside. with the bolt thru the link it is always loose and moving so no way to tell what's really holding it.
I'm not saying you should change it, just not something I would plan on doing if I were designing a trailer.
The double clevis would require a plate or a loop welded on, so for simplicity a u-bolt would seem to be the way to go, provided you can find a stout stubby ubolt, like what's used on a cable clamp.

One problem I can think of with clamping a link tight though would be how to position it so when a shock load came on, it wouldn't be the weakest link because it can't move. Then I suppose you could leave the ubolt loose by using the nylocks, but now your back to climbing under or at least feeling underneath to check their condition/position.

I guess OP had a legitimate/ good question

JB