Hanging Trailer Chains

[Iplayfarmer]

I see a lot of discussion about how to attach trailer safety chains to a tow vehicle. How about some discussion about how to attach the chains to the trailer? I'm about to the point in my trailer re-model where I attach chains to the tongue. I'd love to have a little more knowledge of the subject to guide me in doing it right.

Bolt?
Weld?
Where?
To what?

 

[bcp]

For Washington:
-------------------------------
SAFETY CHAINS AND ATTACHING MEANS REQUIRED

Strength Requirements
Each safety chain and each attaching means shall meet strength requirements as shown in WAC 204-70-99004,
Tables 3 and 4, and defined in WAC 204-70-040.



Installation and Connections

The means of attachment of safety chains shall be located equally distant from and on opposite sides of the longitudinal centerline of the towing vehicle and of the trailer.

Each means of attachment shall not be common with or utilize fasteners common with a ball or coupling.

No welding operation shall be performed on a safety chain subsequent to its manufacture, including the direct welding of safety chain link to the towed and towing vehicles.

Safety chains shall be so connected that the slack for each length of chain between trailer and towing vehicle is the same and is not more than necessary to permit the proper turning of the vehicles.

When passing forward to the towing vehicle, safety chains must be crossed in such a manner as to prevent the tongue from dropping to the ground and to maintain connection in the event of failure of the primary connecting system.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have a mix of both. Some of my trailers have them welded and my newest on has them bolted. Many of them also have coiled safety cables, not chains.

Chris

 

[bcp]

Most I see now have a chain link attached to the tongue with a U-bolt of about the same diameter material as the chain.

Bruce

 

[Iplayfarmer]

For Washington:
-------------------------------
SAFETY CHAINS AND ATTACHING MEANS REQUIRED

Strength Requirements
Each safety chain and each attaching means shall meet strength requirements as shown in WAC 204-70-99004,
Tables 3 and 4, and defined in WAC 204-70-040.



Installation and Connections

The means of attachment of safety chains shall be located equally distant from and on opposite sides of the longitudinal centerline of the towing vehicle and of the trailer.

Each means of attachment shall not be common with or utilize fasteners common with a ball or coupling.

No welding operation shall be performed on a safety chain subsequent to its manufacture, including the direct welding of safety chain link to the towed and towing vehicles.

Safety chains shall be so connected that the slack for each length of chain between trailer and towing vehicle is the same and is not more than necessary to permit the proper turning of the vehicles.

When passing forward to the towing vehicle, safety chains must be crossed in such a manner as to prevent the tongue from dropping to the ground and to maintain connection in the event of failure of the primary connecting system.

That's actually a well written law. I'm not talking about the intent, but about how it's worded so a regular person can actually understand what is being said. I do some work on the planning and zoning commission in our city, and it's hard to write a law so that it's robust but still understandable to a layman.

I digress.

I guess that in Washington there's no welding the chain to the trailer. That makes sense from a standpoint that the welding may change the properties of the metal the chain is made from.

I don't know exactly why, but I'm not real keen on drilling holes through this frame to bolt the chain on. It seems the other option is to weld some kind of bracket onto the trailer frame that holds the chain on.

 

[tommu56]

U-bolt of about the same diameter material as the chain.

Bruce

That is the way mine are mounted on one trailer the other has shackles welded on and the chain in it and pin tightened with a cotter pin.

 

[herringchoker]

Here's how mine came from the factory in 2008. It's actually a single chain (with a hook on either end) anchored in a keyhole slot in a bracket welded to the front of the A-frame.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here's how mine came from the factory in 2008. It's actually a single chain (with a hook on either end) anchored in a keyhole slot in a bracket welded to the front of the A-frame.

I wonder how hard that keyhole slot would be to cut.

 

[mjncad]

I wonder how hard that keyhole slot would be to cut.

I've seen them online where you can buy them. Banjo Eye for 5/16" Chain | AW Direct

Other outfits may sell them.

 

[sandman2234]

I have posted this before, but thought this might be a good place to stick it again.

I see a lot of safety chains dragging the ground in my business. Any time I am stopped and see it, I grab a bungy cord and show the owner/driver how to wrap a single bungy from one safety chain, around the tongue or the landing gear tube and back to the other chain. Usually just a few links from the point where they are welded to the trailer is enough, but each is different, will pull the chains hard enough to keep them off the ground, but still allow for the vehicle to stretch them out if too tight a turn is taken. I prefer two bungy cords, one on each chain, but when your giving them to strangers, one is enough.
David from jax

 

[JB4310]

Here's how mine came from the factory in 2008. It's actually a single chain (with a hook on either end) anchored in a keyhole slot in a bracket welded to the front of the A-frame.

Never seen that way before, ok for smaller trailers, I wouldn't want it for a 5 ton or up though.

JB.

 

[radioman]

I have posted this before, but thought this might be a good place to stick it again.

I see a lot of safety chains dragging the ground in my business. Any time I am stopped and see it, I grab a bungy cord and show the owner/driver how to wrap a single bungy from one safety chain, around the tongue or the landing gear tube and back to the other chain. Usually just a few links from the point where they are welded to the trailer is enough, but each is different, will pull the chains hard enough to keep them off the ground, but still allow for the vehicle to stretch them out if too tight a turn is taken. I prefer two bungy cords, one on each chain, but when your giving them to strangers, one is enough.
David from jax

wouldnt it be better just twist the chain one or 2 times to shorten it up so its off the ground instead of bungee?! If bungee breaks or fall off somehow, its back to draggin on ground. Twisting the chain to shorten it will never have issues.

 

[moored4]

wouldnt it be better just twist the chain one or 2 times to shorten it up so its off the ground instead of bungee?! If bungee breaks or fall off somehow, its back to draggin on ground. Twisting the chain to shorten it will never have issues.

wouldn't twisting the chains lower the rating of the chain if the trailer came disconcted?

 

[herringchoker]

"I wonder how hard that keyhole slot would be to cut."
Iplay, I think mjncad's link is the answer to that.

"Never seen that way before, ok for smaller trailers, I wouldn't want it for a 5 ton or up though."
JB, I agree. My trailer is 7,000# with 3/8 chains. The bracket is 5/16" thick, same as the one in mjncad's link.

 

[JB4310]

wouldn't twisting the chains lower the rating of the chain if the trailer came disconcted?

It would be marginal if at all, I cross and twist mine a couple turns to take the excess slack out.

"Never seen that way before, ok for smaller trailers, I wouldn't want it for a 5 ton or up though."
JB, I agree. My trailer is 7,000# with 3/8 chains. The bracket is 5/16" thick, same as the one in mjncad's link.

It's the weakest link rule, relying on the one captured link for both chains, makes it one chain in reality. but if it's 3/8 I think your good to go. Sure is simple, and easy to replace the chain if needed.

My 5 ton dump uses 3/8 chain with a clevis connector, which I haven't seen alot of either.

JB

 

[oldyellr]

Here's how mine came from the factory in 2008. It's actually a single chain (with a hook on either end) anchored in a keyhole slot in a bracket welded to the front of the A-frame.

How can that be legal when you're supposed to have two chains? If the link in the keyhole, or the one on either side of it breaks, you have nothing.

 

[moored4]

It would be marginal if at all, I cross and twist mine a couple turns to take the excess slack out.

It's the weakest link rule, relying on the one captured link for both chains, makes it one chain in reality. but if it's 3/8 I think your good to go. Sure is simple, and easy to replace the chain if needed.

JB

Here are some links that might be interesting to some!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/100423-twisted-chains.html
http://129.118.86.167/CTEC 4343 Topics/Rigging/Hoists/chp_3-1.htm

or you could google "does twisting chain weaken load rating" and read the referance material that is pulled up!

 

[sandman2234]

wouldnt it be better just twist the chain one or 2 times to shorten it up so its off the ground instead of bungee?! If bungee breaks or fall off somehow, its back to draggin on ground. Twisting the chain to shorten it will never have issues.

Twisting the chain works, but if you have a low trailer, and you twist them to get them off the ground, and you have to take a sharp corner, you can run out of chain if you have shortened them too much. Plus if you leave them hanging and then load the trailer or get into some whoop de dos you can still drag twisted chains. Plus I can hook up a bungee in a lot less time than you can twist one chain, much less two.
People that haul a lot usually figure out what works, but those that just do it every now and then are the ones I usually see with dragging chains. I would hate to know just how much money U-haul charges for damaged chains caused by dragging, and they are the worse culprits, as they put way too much chain on their trailers for the most inexperienced.
David from jax

 

[chopped]

personaly i like a bungie cord. I leave it on permanant, and works great..

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

I have posted this before, but thought this might be a good place to stick it again.

I see a lot of safety chains dragging the ground in my business. Any time I am stopped and see it, I grab a bungy cord and show the owner/driver how to wrap a single bungy from one safety chain, around the tongue or the landing gear tube and back to the other chain. Usually just a few links from the point where they are welded to the trailer is enough, but each is different, will pull the chains hard enough to keep them off the ground, but still allow for the vehicle to stretch them out if too tight a turn is taken. I prefer two bungy cords, one on each chain, but when your giving them to strangers, one is enough.
David from jax

The best way to mount safety chains are to create a weld on mount. Hang the end link of the safety inside of it and then permanently weld it to the trailer.. photo shown below .

ALSO... if your safety chains are a little long and you want to get them up off of the ground... simply twist the hook in your hand to 'roll up' some links, which shortens it up quite nicely and does not effect the strength of the chain when needed.. I know, once you see it, you say... 'Duh! That was simple!'

Good towing!