Hog Damage Drag attachments

[Aggie66]

We have a lot of hog damage on our property that we recently purchased and I have secured a 10 foot railroad iron to manage some of the damage. One of my concerns is attaching the drag to the back of our tractor and also the UTV. my concern is the pull cables getting into the tires and possibly becoming a safety issue. Has anyone developed an attachment or how to attach that can minimize this issue or is it just something you have to live with and watch out for. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

Just be careful. Set you cables/ chains wide enough to keep the drag perpendicular behind you but not excessively wide.

 

[Chewwy]

Thread the cables thru some metal piping. It will “stiffen” the connections and prevent the cables from becoming entangled with the wheels.

Alternatively, purchase a couple of angle irons and use them the connect to the railroad iron.

 

[sea2summit]

Guess it all depends on what you’re trying to do. I’d box blade the big stuff and call it good unless you’re trying to hay or make it a lawn. Those dang things will be back as long as whatever they were eating is there. My neighbor has been working for three years now to recondition some hay fields he bought and after a year of trying he killed everything, disked it, and started over. And he unfortunately for the hog situation lives up against some public land so we’re constantly out there blasting pigs.

 

[WranglerX]

I have uses chain on my rr iron and have extended connection point back some and just watch turning radius.... It's more about driving tractor not how its connected.....

 

[Aggie66]

Thanks for all the feedback. I’ll incorporate your suggestions and oil up the AR.

 

[ns_in_tex]

Thanks for all the feedback. I’ll incorporate your suggestions and oil up the AR.

We have hooked a drag behind our box blade, also a disk harrow. If you like, you can hold the harrow or blade up, until needed to help out the drag, then apply a little weight or a lot, as needed

 

[oosik]

No hogs here - just lots of pocket gophers. I made a 4' x 4' wooden drag for behind my ATV. I also reverse my rear blade behind my tractor. This is my drag......

 

[Aggie66]

No hogs here - just lots of pocket gophers. I made a 4' x 4' wooden drag for behind my ATV. I also reverse my rear blade behind my tractor. This is my drag......

View attachment 771837

Are those bolts or rebar

 

[Aggie66]

We have hooked a drag behind our box blade, also a disk harrow. If you like, you can hold the harrow or blade up, until needed to help out the drag, then apply a little weight or a lot, as needed

That’s a good idea using the box blade.

 

[MF243RedTop]

We have a lot of hog damage on our property that we recently purchased and I have secured a 10 foot railroad iron to manage some of the damage. One of my concerns is attaching the drag to the back of our tractor and also the UTV. my concern is the pull cables getting into the tires and possibly becoming a safety issue. Has anyone developed an attachment or how to attach that can minimize this issue or is it just something you have to live with and watch out for. Any feedback is appreciated.

Steel shaft (cut up mobile tie downs) welded to RR iron slip larger chain loop over shaft before welding...Use a shackle if necessary..
Cut keyhole in blade run chain through.. you can also back feed chain in same keyhole so it doesn't slip out..

You could probably apply this to lots of attachments... Just cut your keyhole big enough to slide chain through, then the slit of it only big enough for the individual link to hook on. Keyhole has to be vertical to work...

You can lengthen the chain so the RR iron is always on ground, or shorten it at the keyhole so that it picks up with the blade.

Use at least 3/8 grade 70 or 80 chain nothing smaller..

 

[MF243RedTop]

Here's a second blade I fabbed up with it in action. You have to notch out RR iron where the shaft/rod welds on.

 

[Aggie66]

Steel shaft (cut up mobile tie downs) welded to RR iron slip larger chain loop over shaft before welding...Use a shackle if necessary..
Cut keyhole in blade run chain through.. you can also back feed chain in same keyhole so it doesn't slip out..

View attachment 771983
View attachment 771984
View attachment 771985
View attachment 771986

You could probably apply this to lots of attachments... Just cut your keyhole big enough to slide chain through, then the slit of it only big enough for the individual link to hook on. Keyhole has to be vertical to work...

You can lengthen the chain so the RR iron is always on ground, or shorten it at the keyhole so that it picks up with the blade.

Use at least 3/8 grade 70 or 80 chain nothing smaller..

Thanks for your feedback. What a novel approach with the keyhole design. I’ll bet others will find this helpful. Great idea.

 

[oosik]

"Are those bolts or rebar". They are large spikes( nails ). I pre-drilled small diameter holes - clear thru the timbers - and used Gorilla glue to hold the spikes in place.

I'm really surprised. The entire thing has lasted over six years and no repairs needed. Flop it on one side - its smooth. Flop on the other side - you have the spikes.

I tow it with my ATV. A rope off two corners forms a towing yoke.

It's amazing how - sometimes - your cheapest implement works so very well.