How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[Sammy the red]

..........Maybe I am lucky that there is a Ford plant here (and lots of employees with "A plan" so they can get new trucks pretty cheap) but I couldn't throw a rock without hitting an F150 with a for sale sign on it.

When one refers to "Here", it is always nice too know where "Here" is.
As you do not list your location, we can only guess that "Here" may be Cape Cod ?

 

[s219]

Update: My tractor is being delivered today. I have a couple weeks before I need to start working on our new property, and will shop for trailers and trucks during that time. I'll also get a better feel for how much size I may need.

I haven't come across any used trucks under $10K that I like, but I think it would be a matter of connecting with family/friends through word of mouth to find a good deal. Anything advertised is either super high mileage or overpriced, or both.

I can get a new 2011 F-150 work truck for about $20K, and depreciate it under my business in one shot -- that's a tax benefit for 2011 under one of the current economic stimulus plans. I just have to buy the truck and put it into service by Dec 31. That would get the effective cost down closer to $13K. For $13K, I am starting to think a new F-150 is the way to go. And I like the idea of not giving that money straight to Uncle Sam. So that is an option too.

I looked at one used trailer yesterday, but it was in rough shape. So I am still steering towards a new 76"x16' or 82"x16' -- they are similarly priced, but the 76" is a landscape trailer and the 82" is more of an equipment hauler and seems better built. I'd just need to build stake-sides for the hauler for other uses.

As a worst case backup plan, I can probably haul the tractor with my current vehicle if I break up the initial load and then store the implements at my other property (don't need them at my current house). Transporting just the tractor back and forth should be doable if I am not dealing with the added weight of implements. But I will work out the math once the tractor gets here and I can measure/weigh everything.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...For $13K, I am starting to think a new F-150 is the way to go.

If you can get an F-150 for and effective cost of $13K, I think you're right. That's the way to go.

I also think you're right about being able to haul your load in pieces and do fine with you have as a temporary measure. Just take it easy and plan your stops and starts.

It's nice to not HAVE to be in a hurry to buy something new.

Also, go with the equipment trailer vs. the landscape trailer.

 

[RobertN]

I still say ranch truck... Just looking at Craigslist for Sacramento(near me), there are planty of 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4x4's for $2k. Some dents, faded paint, mileage. But, great for clearing property ect, and towing a tractor 15 miles.

IMHO, get one of those, beat the tar out of it for two years while you clear property, build house ect. Then go get your nice pickup...

There was a mid-80's F250 4x4 with a 460, stick shift for $2k... Pull stumps, tow tractor, haul gravel, who cares if you dent it...

I haven't come across any used trucks under $10K that I like, but I think it would be a matter of connecting with family/friends through word of mouth to find a good deal. Anything advertised is either super high mileage or overpriced, or both.

 

[hawkeye08]

Talked to an oldtimer one time about securing a 10,000 28' boat to the trailer. He was using ropes and when I asked about whether the rope would handle the 10,000lbs, he said the trailer only weighted 2400lbs. He never had any problems and had some sudden freeway stops and such.

When I haul my Kubota, I use 4 chains, one from each corner of tractor, binders on them and also secure the loader bucket. It only takes a few minutes to do it and then I don't worry about issues or DOT.

Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

 

[farmboy12]

Be careful, if you're buying that truck under a business name, and tow a 7k or 10k trailer it will definitely put your GCVWR over 10,000lbs. That puts you in DOT territory, which means getting a DOT card by getting a physical and other such things. I don't think there's any test, but it can be a PITA to keep up your DOT. Fines for commercial vehicles are often heftier than a private hauler.


Kyle

 

[jeffsw6]

When one refers to "Here", it is always nice too know where "Here" is.
As you do not list your location, we can only guess that "Here" may be Cape Cod ?

Louisville, Kentucky suburbs, so pretty close to thousands of Ford workers assembling trucks.

 

[dstig1]

Update: M

I looked at one used trailer yesterday, but it was in rough shape. So I am still steering towards a new 76"x16' or 82"x16' -- they are similarly priced, but the 76" is a landscape trailer and the 82" is more of an equipment hauler and seems better built. I'd just need to build stake-sides for the hauler for other uses.

Equipment trailer, for sure! Skip the landscape thing, or you will regret it. They are too light...

 

[AGGIE00]

Be careful, if you're buying that truck under a business name, and tow a 7k or 10k trailer it will definitely put your GCVWR over 10,000lbs. That puts you in DOT territory, which means getting a DOT card by getting a physical and other such things. I don't think there's any test, but it can be a PITA to keep up your DOT. Fines for commercial vehicles are often heftier than a private hauler.


Kyle

I may be wrong, and will be in trouble if I am, but I think the gcvwr has to be under 26k. That is why we use a gooseneck utility trailer with 2-7k axles instead of a dovetail with 2-10k dexters to haul our skidsteer mulcher. I'm still a bit overloaded, but dot doesn't look at a rig like ours the same as a dovetail. I use airbags on my truck and put a bunch of the weight on the ball to help the trailer out.

 

[rasimmo]

There were a few threads on here about that a while back. I think if trailer rating is over 10K used comercially it requires a CDL. That may be wrong. There was a lot of disagreement about it.