How to make box blade type shanks penetrate further?

[jeff9366]

The solution is to move the adjustment pins for the Three Point Hitch right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links, from the TOP hole to the LOWER hole. This will allow your ripper to drop down 3" to 5". Then play with Top Link length.

Removing pins is easier with implement removed. DO NOT POUND ON THE PINS WITH A STEEL TOOL TO GET THEM OUT, or you will convert the pins to rivets. (A brass or nylon drift is OK) Work in slack with the right Lifting Rod. Grease pins lightly. I use anti-seize compound but any grease is fine.

This pin adjustment is highly useful when using a Box Blade, Landscape Rake, Rear Blade and/or Turf Thatch Remover. Sometimes useful when operating a Field Cultivator.


Kubota L3560 photos:

#1 Standard position for Lower Link, stirrup pin in UPPER adjustment hole. Note Lower Link angle.

#2 Optional position for Lower Link, stirrup pin in LOWER adjustment hole. Note Lower Link drop.

 

[gwdixon]

That is what I thought too. I don't know why guys are talking about shortening the top link. :confused3:

In my case, with a box blade, the blade needs to be used with a short top link to keep the blade from engaging the ground.

Without a blade, I'd agree that a longer top link would dig aggressively and lower the scarifier frame closer to the ground. I have a tool bar set-up that does just that. Don't have a photo yet, maybe later today.

EDIT: Here is the photo mentioned above. Note the scarifiers (or middle buster) can be dropped a LONG way for penetration. However, I can't get much more than 8" into the ground regardless of the shaft length. So the type of ground seems to be the limiting factor.



I am particularly proud of the four homemade tool holders attached to the bar...subtle brag there.:dance1:

 

[gwdixon]

The solution is to move the adjustment pins for the Three Point Hitch right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links, from the TOP hole to the LOWER hole. This will allow your ripper to drop down 3" to 5". Then play with Top Link length.

Removing pins is easier with implement removed. DO NOT POUND ON THE PINS WITH A STEEL TOOL TO GET THEM OUT, or you will convert the pins to rivets. (A brass or nylon drift is OK) Work in slack with the right Lifting Rod. Grease pins lightly. I use anti-seize compound but any grease is fine.

This pin adjustment is highly useful when using a Box Blade, Landscape Rake, Rear Blade and/or Turf Thatch Remover. Sometimes useful when operating a Field Cultivator.


Kubota L3560 photos:

#1 Standard position for Lower Link, stirrup pin in UPPER adjustment hole. Note Lower Link angle.

#2 Optional position for Lower Link, stirrup pin in LOWER adjustment hole. Note Lower Link drop.

I'm not sure that the 3PH on the M-series tractors have adjustments like shown on your L-series hitch. Or, I maybe I'm full of bull****. (Well, that's a given.)

I'll check this morning. It is not shown in the OP's photo of his MX.

Edit: Based on the description by the OP below and my M7040, there is not much adjustment of the lower arms where they attach to the vertical lift arms. It appears there would be not much difference which hole was used...but there would be some.

 

[sixdogs]

My MX has two holes for lift arm height. I started with the higher position for the arms and went to the lower setup next so I don't think that's the issue because I got the same results. It does appear the length of the toplink is the issue and I'll be going out in an hour or so to try the longer link.

It is interesting that when I started I had the implement level and penetration was not much. When I shortened it I gained depth but only a little. I will lengthen soon and advise later today when I get back.

 

[gwdixon]

My MX has two holes for lift arm height. I started with the higher position for the arms and went to the lower setup next so I don't think that's the issue because I got the same results. It does appear the length of the toplink is the issue and I'll be going out in an hour or so to try the longer link.

It is interesting that when I started I had the implement level and penetration was not much. When I shortened it I gained depth but only a little. I will lengthen soon and advise later today when I get back.

Do multiple passes over the same area give any more penetration? As my post #13 just above notes, I can set up an implement with scarifiers about 3 feet long but still only get 8" of penetration. It just may be that the factors at your place will only allow what the implement is currently getting.

 

[jeff9366]

The solution is to move the adjustment pins for the Three Point Hitch right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links, from the TOP hole to the LOWER hole. This will allow your ripper to drop down 3" to 5". Then play with Top Link length.

I visited the yard at my local Kubota dealer a few minutes ago.

All 'L's', including L2501, have two stirrup adjusting holes.

MX 4800/5200 have two stirrup adjusting holes.

M5660SU has three stirrup adjusting holes.

 

[KennyG]

Maybe I'm missing something, but the shorter the top link it seems like the more the points will be pointed down at the ground. If you lengthen the top link enough, the points wouldn't even engage and the rippers would just ride on the curved shank. If I was doing this I would instinctively shorten the top link. Am i way off base here?

 

[sixdogs]

OK, here's the answer and I spent two hours trying to figure this out. There are a couple things going on and I would have guessed otherwise.

First, the length of the toplink does change penetration. Longer gives more implement depth and so does shorter but not as much. I believe the implement was designed to operate level.

More important was the distance of the lift arms to the ground. Mine were sort of OK but a couple more inches would have made a big difference. I did get the implement to penetrate more but it still stopped above it's mathematical maximum depth because of toplink length. Had the arms dropped lower. the toplink length would not have mattered as much.

So, you can compensate for the too high lift arm ends by fooling with the toplink length but if the lift arms are very close to the ground I would keep the implement level, which is probably the way it was designed. Anyway, I got the job done I had to do.

 

[Citydude]

Basically, you'll have to find the "sweet spot" where the rippers are more aggressive. I ran a D10N track dozer for a few years and learned that the material your ripping will dictate where your ripper teeth bite. In most cases, the shorter the top link (hydraulic cylinders in this case) were more aggressive for deeper penetration. In this position, it would stop the dozer until you extended the top link cylinders positioning the teeth for a less aggressive bite. Down pressure was applied however the more the ripper teeth were pointed down the more aggressive they were. Without down pressure, weight should be applied.

 

[Gordon Gould]

To bad you couldn't set your top link Parallel to the lift arms that way your angle of attack would say the same at any depth. The way you have it in the picture as the shanks lower the shanks roll back (like lengthening the top link as you go deeper) so the deeper you go the less it wants to pull itself down. So all you can do is what you did. Find the best spot where it will start down and go the deepest.