How to transition to MIG?

[Ritothebull]

I have been welding with stick as my only method for many years. Not that I'm good at it or have done it a ton, but I can make metal stick together passably. It doesn't look great and I wouldn't stake my life on the results but most of my projects are non-critical and they hold up fine.

Stick welding is a pain though, probably because I'm not that good at it. Sometimes it is hard to strike an arc. Probably using the wrong type of rod. And I probably should get a better helmet that is auto-darkening so I can see what I'm doing before I strike the arc randomly an inch away from where I'm supposed to be starting. I know I have some challenges overall. Going to work on those. My welder is an ancient (30-40 year old) Lincoln buzzbox. I think it is in decent condition but I guess it is possible that it may not be in tip-top form itself so that may contribute to my pains. I have replaced the leads and ends recently.

But I'd like to get into MIG welding. It seems like it may be a little easier to control things and not be as futzy as stick welding. Is this a reasonable thought? Does anyone have a pointer for someone who knows the general concepts of welding to get up to speed on MIG? Things like choosing fluxed vs. non-flux wire, what gas is needed, wire thickness to choose, wire speed, etc? I'd like to learn about it before buying a new welder.

Thanks,
Rob

Sounds to me like you would probably be able to do most of your repairs with your old stick welder if you could use it properly, I would recommend you find someone to check it out for you and get a bit of instruction on using it before you consider getting a mig. Going to mig because stick is not working out so good is like getting a bigger boat because your not catching any fish in the small one.

 

[ArlyA]

I've ran both of these processes much, plus others like inner and duel shields wire. Having said that, I spent most of my years utilizing stick welders. Today, if I was allowed to have just one welding system, it would be MIG. I'd also say its easier to use that stick.

 

[metalbender]

It's actually easier to control stick. Mig will keep running filler even if you're not paying attention to the weld. That's when the goose poop welds happen. With stick you can massage the weld if needed to keep good penetration. There's no substitute for hood time and a good instructor for a start in the right direction.

 

[WranglerX]

It's actually easier to control stick. Mig will keep running filler even if you're not paying attention to the weld. That's when the goose poop welds happen. With stick you can massage the weld if needed to keep good penetration. There's no substitute for hood time and a good instructor for a start in the right direction.

If you are not paying attention to the weld... You need to back off and clear your head of whatever is distracting you....

Dale

 

[BigBlue1]

Sounds to me like you would probably be able to do most of your repairs with your old stick welder if you could use it properly, I would recommend you find someone to check it out for you and get a bit of instruction on using it before you consider getting a mig. Going to mig because stick is not working out so good is like getting a bigger boat because your not catching any fish in the small one.

I'm sure if I was good at it the stick welder would be very useful and capable. But I've had it for a long time and my skills haven't really improved a whole lot, even though I have practiced. I don't know anyone else who welds to learn from and short of signing up for a class at a community college I have no real options to get instruction (other than Youtube). I'm a hobby welder and I've never going to have in-depth chances to become an expert at it. It just seems that MIG is generally a lot easier to get decent results out of with a shorter learning curve. And why not have two different options available?

 

[dragoneggs]

"Steve, how would you compare your old 211 transformer to your 211 inverter model?"

Similarities - both use max 8" spools come with only 10' gun, run on either 120 or 240 volts, and can use either manual or autoset. Neither will tell you what the numbers mean, altho there's kind of a "workaround" to figure out what the wire SPEED is doing - voltage too, but requires a helper and some note taking

There was about a 3 year gap between using the older one and the newer (inverter) one, so I may be remembering wrong; it sorta seems like the transformer one was a little bit "smoother" - if so, it would likely be the transformer unit having slightly different inductance, just a "SWAG" on my part.

Differences - the inverter mm211 weighs 32 pounds less, has a beefier feed that is rated for a 15' gun (transformer one is NOT recommended for more than a 10' gun) - Autoset on the transformer one expects C25 gas, set for either .030 or .035 wire, mild steel ONLY, flux core in MANUAL ONLY,aluminum in MANUAL ONLY, with spoolgun. Spoolmate 100 or Spoolmate 150. Spoolmate 150 uses different consumables IIRC, has a 20' reach. the 100 is only a 12' reach.
Inverter model offers Autoset choices of THREE wire sizes, .024 to .035 - Separate Autoset choices of flux core, MIG stainless, MIG steel/C25, MIG steel/C100 or MIG aluminum (spool gun) - I've not done stainless yet, according to the manual the autoset expects Tri-mix gas.

Transformer version the fan runs constant, inverter version fan on demand.

Basically, Miller addressed every complaint I had about the transformer version that was economically feasible; I just can't figure out what they were smoking when they used the EXACT same model name

As I mentioned in another thread, if I still had the transformer model I would NOT have been able to build the "offroad" cart I did for the inverter model
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/387658-container-weld-shop-build-20.html

Because that extra 32 pounds would've made the cart too top heavy for the "hand truck mode" to be practical. The cart was a lot of work to get just the way I wanted it, but it's been well worth the effort. It makes the smaller mig a LOT more portable than the dual running gear MM252, makes my 4 different work areas less of a PITA.

Even so, they're gonna have a hard time prying EITHER machine from my "cold dead fingers" :laughing: ... Steve

Thanks Steve, yeah I sometimes wish I had a longer gun but that's a personal problem.:laughing:

Having the heavy transformer model hasn't been an issue because I only weld in my shop and my cart is mobile enough. My only real gripe is the lack of digital voltage/amp readout. That hasn't slowed me down but it would be nice to know.

 

[metalbender]

Paying attention ro the weld as in watching the puddle. So easy with mig to "lay down" a pretty bead, like a bead from a caulking gun. Seen too many "nice" beads with no penetration. I'm thinking pipeliners still use stick, could be wrong though.

 

[coxhaus]

Paying attention ro the weld as in watching the puddle. So easy with mig to "lay down" a pretty bead, like a bead from a caulking gun. Seen too many "nice" beads with no penetration. I'm thinking pipeliners still use stick, could be wrong though.

I saw some talk now of rolling the pipe as you weld using MIG. I think this would be hard out in the field in a trench.

I had trouble with MIG welding 8 inch pipe from 6 o'clock to 12. I can do 6 to 3 and 3 to 12 but 6 to 12 was hard because the gun angle is changing a lot as you weld up. I need more practice. It is not something I have welded very much of.

 

[California]

... It just seems that MIG is generally a lot easier to get decent results out of with a shorter learning curve.

So easy with mig to "lay down" a pretty bead, like a bead from a caulking gun. Seen too many "nice" beads with no penetration.

As an amateur I get obvious penetration with my old AC 230a stick welder. But when running flux core, I destroy a couple of test welds on scrap before welding the real project, to verify I'm doing it right.

 

[aczlan]

Paying attention ro the weld as in watching the puddle. So easy with mig to "lay down" a pretty bead, like a bead from a caulking gun. Seen too many "nice" beads with no penetration. I'm thinking pipeliners still use stick, could be wrong though.

We have some welders in for a project at work and they are welding things together with 6010 rod running off of Miller Trailblazer engine powered welders.
I was talking with one of the guys and they use 6010 for most things, with a larger pipe they will do a root pass with 6010 and cover it with 7018.

Aaron Z