Hydraulic Auger Mount

[bindian]

Back in 2007, when I bought my Mahindra 6520 and 511 Backhoe, I modified the backhoe to run the Danuser Hydraulic Auger. It has worked well on the backhoe since then. Now, I want to run some new fence lines and have decided to move the auger to the side of the loader bucket.

I drew out a lot of different paper designs until I finalized the design. I wanted it to hang a little low, but the bolts had to clear the bottom of the bucket. Thus the off set, low slung rake.

I decided to go with 3/8 inch 4 inch wide plate, as the bracket that will hang from it is 5/8 inch thick. I cut the pieces out with a 3 inch cutoff wheel on a high speed grinder. It took some time, but it took little grinding to get it cleaned up and looking production made. I drilled the 1 & 3/8 inch holes with a hole saw on the drill press at work. That took a while also.

I had to go to my local welding shop, as I do not have a welder. Besides, 3/8 inch thick takes a bunch of welder. I showed the shop manager how it needed a washer inside the bracket for loose fit after welding. I didn't get to watch because of insurance. Anyway, I painted it at the shop while the mount was still warm. I got it home and tried the auger motor's adapter bracket. It barely fit after the paint was removed. Seems the welder took the washer out and now the fit is tight with paint. As you can see in the photos, the paint has been scraped by the adapter bracket, when I tried it out.

Hopefully next weekend I will get it mounted on the bucket. I need to figure out if I want to tap the bucket for threads, or just drill holes and use nuts on the bolts. I am leaning towards tapping the holes, but time will tell.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Martian]

Sounds like an interesting idea. Sure it would be much faster/efficient then on the backhoe. Can't wait to see how this turns out:thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

I need to make a yoke very similar to the one in your second to last picture. I wonder if this is strong enough to resist twisting in the middle.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Nuts and bolts is the only way to go IMO. You will be battling dirt and debris and probably stripped threads.

But this is great work. How did you cut the holes? You need to buy at least a used stick welder. Craig's will have them for$100.

 

[bindian]

I need to make a yoke very similar to the one in your second to last picture. I wonder if this is strong enough to resist twisting in the middle.

Jenkinsph,
I'm thinking with the low rpm and my hand on the lever, that won't be a problem after my experiences using it on the backhoe and the fact no rocks are here.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Nuts and bolts is the only way to go IMO. You will be battling dirt and debris and probably stripped threads.

But this is great work. How did you cut the holes? You need to buy at least a used stick welder. Craig's will have them for$100.

Woodlandfarms,
Thanks! You bring up a good fact. Dirt will fill those holes and be hard to clean out. It would be nice to be able to counter sink the inside of the holes for plow bolts. I bought a 14 dollar 1 & 3/8 inch, cheap looking, metal hole saw from the local True Value hardware store. Low RPM and lots of cutting fluid is required.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I located the mount on the bucket and drilled the holes out to 1/4 inch today. I am stumped on what diameter bolts to use. I was thinking 3/8 inch bolts, then though maybe bigger. The metal thickness is 1 & 1/8 inch. Do Y'all think I should go to 7/16 or 1/2 inch bolts?
hugs, Brandi

 

[crackerjack222]

I see you are using 4 bolts, I would use 1/2" grade 8 bolts (available from Tractor Supply) and lock nuts.

 

[bindian]

I see you are using 4 bolts, I would use 1/2" grade 8 bolts (available from Tractor Supply) and lock nuts.

CJ222,
Grade 8 for sure. One vote for 1/2 inch. Thanks. I think it would be awesome to find a countersink and use plow bolts. The bucket sidewall was easy to drill. I have 8 of them for a grader blade project for the backhoe that came with the cutting blade I bought.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I need to make a yoke very similar to the one in your second to last picture. I wonder if this is strong enough to resist twisting in the middle.

Jenkinsph,
I think I misread your post above. The yoke is 5/8 inch thick and supplied with the Danuser Auger, so I am sure they engineered enough strength to resist twisting even in rocking ground.
hugs, Brandi

 

[Chilly807]

I made a bucket mount for skid shoes (snow removal) a couple of years ago, I drilled through the reinforced bucket bottom and filed the holes square to use carriage bolts. Plow bolts would work well, but is there really anything to gain by having a truly flush surface?

It's late in the game to make this suggestion, but it would have been nice to be able to simply add a couple of low profile rails on the side of the bucket to slide the new hanger bracket into. If it had been done that way, you would have been able to simply slide the bracket in place and lock it with a single small bolt. The rails wouldn't impede using the bucket normally, and you could have either welded or bolted them in place.

The more bolts you add the more of a PITA it's going to be to put it on and take it off, so you'll try to avoid using it. That's been my experience, anyway.

I take it you're going to use the bucket curl hoses to run the auger?

Sean

 

[bindian]

I take it you're going to use the bucket curl hoses to run the auger?

Sean

Sean,
No, I want to keep curl function. I will run it to the second remote.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I bought the grade 8 hardware today at Lowes. TSC was out of all 1/2 inch bolts. I now realize that the welder did weld it up with the washer in. The fit problem comes from a very basic no-no from welding 101............Use equal heat on both sides of a flange. As it is, the flange leans in on the forward end. After drilling the bolt holes out to 1/2 inch, I took it all apart and put half of the hole of the forward flange on the bench grinder. Now it falls apart when I pull the pin. All this drilling went quick with my 18 volt Makita cordless drill and a good bit that was continually dipped in Boelube.
Saturday I will mount the motor and gearbox on the mounts.
hugs, Brandi

 

[RFB]

Ma'am,

What is your overall impression of the Danuser product? I am planning on a future hydro auger purchase and I am looking at several products to include Danuser and McMillen (Everything Attachments) so user feedback is important to me.

Thank you.

 

[bindian]

Ma'am,

What is your overall impression of the Danuser product? I am planning on a future hydro auger purchase and I am looking at several products to include Danuser and McMillen (Everything Attachments) so user feedback is important to me.

Thank you.

RFB,
I think it is well worth the money. Especially over PTO augers. Buy the longest extension you can buy with it to get 4 feet depth. I bought a 12 inch extension and have to dig down for motor clearance to hit four feet.

More importantly, I made a phone call to Danuser and Steve (or Glenn, can't remember first name) Danuser ansnwered my questions.
hugs, Brandi

 

[woodlandfarms]

I built my own hydraulic auger. Came in with a hd bit at just under 1k.

 

[bindian]

I built my own hydraulic auger. Came in with a hd bit at just under 1k.

That is an good price and you had the satisfaction of building it. In 2007, the auger motor was $1446. The 9 inch bit was $206 and the 12 inch bit was $242. The 14 inch extension was $103. One of my (slow boat) projects is to make another extension. I will have to find some drill stem for a coupling. The solid round stock for the shaft is only around $25. Problem is finding the right size thick wall coupling. But then again, I only looked at the local mill supply. I might buy some solid round stock the diameter of the coupling and have it machined. That might turn out to be the easiest.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I got the auger motor assembly installed today and measured for 3/8 inch lines to the remote. I will need 16 feet x 2. First photo is the view from the seat. The 2nd and 3rd photos show overall installation, while the last photo shows a good close up of the bracket profiles. This rig definitely needs a cradle on wheels. So I will be designing and building a cradle for the auger/motor assy. with the extension installed.
hugs, Brandi

 

[JohninCT]

Nice job Brandi. That hyd digger sure is sweet.

 

[Martian]

That will be doing some fast drilling! Wish I'd thought of that 8 years ago when I put in a fence.