I need a new coupler for my trailer - whick one is best?

[Workstead]

I was rear ended when pulling my trailer and now I have to replace the damaged coupler. The trailer is a 16ft 75 inch landscape type trailer with two 3500 lb axle's, one with brakes. The heaviest thing I haul occasionally is my MF1250 tractor with an FEL.

I have a coupler in my stash, but it is too lightweight, so I have to buy a new one. I have looked a little and have seen different type closers that close over the ball on the tow vehicle. Some come down over the ball and some squeeze around the ball. Then there is the ring type coupler. The previous coupler was a 5000 lb A frame that closed over the 2" ball.

If I am going to change the type of coupler, now is the time to do it.

Which type should I get?

Thanks,

Clem

 

[grsthegreat]

I was rear ended when pulling my trailer and now I have to replace the damaged coupler. The trailer is a 16ft 75 inch landscape type trailer with two 3500 lb axle's, one with brakes. The heaviest thing I haul occasionally is my MF1250 tractor with an FEL.

I have a coupler in my stash, but it is too lightweight, so I have to buy a new one. I have looked a little and have seen different type closers that close over the ball on the tow vehicle. Some come down over the ball and some squeeze around the ball. Then there is the ring type coupler. The previous coupler was a 2" that closed over the ball.

If I am going to change the type of coupler, now is the time to do it.

Which type should I get?



Thanks,

Clem

yeiks, ive seen so many different kinds of couplers on so many different kinds of trailers, but i really dont know which is best.

or if it makes any difference.

How did you damage your old one???

 

[Workstead]

yeiks....

How did you damage your old one???

When I was hit from behind the trailer was driven down and under my truck and the old coupler was crimped over the ball.

 

[grsthegreat]

Yeiks. I would say if that coupler stayed attached to the ball, than its a good choice for replacement type :laughing:

 

[brokenknee]

Bull dog makes a good coupler, down side is you have to keep them well lubricated or you are going to have trouble.

 

[Workstead]

Yeiks. I would say if that coupler stayed attached to the ball, than its a good choice for replacement type :laughing:

Good point!

 

[Workstead]

Bull dog makes a good coupler, down side is you have to keep them well lubricated or you are going to have trouble.

I have a Bulldog on an old trailer I picked up, that was previously a sailboat trailer, that was modified to a utility trailer. The hitch is touchy so it probably needs some lubrication help. The previous coupler on my damaged trailer was also touchy and most times I had to "persuade" it to fit over the ball.

 

[Skyco]

I prefer the Bulldog coupler...:thumbsup:

 

[brokenot]

I like the weldable cast steel couplers from Croft, here's one example:

H-3, Products

We've used couplers like this on rental trailers for years, and they will be absolutely the last thing damaged under circumstances like you described. Most trailer couplers are stamped steel, and are subject to bending/tweaking if someone jack knifes the trailer while backing up and such. Once they get even a little tweaked, they never operate correctly again. Couplers like this one from Croft are incredibly conservatively rated, this one says 5000#, but if you picked it up you'd see that there's maybe twice as much material there as there is with a stamped steel coupler of the same rating.

In every day type usage, these things outlast the stamped couplers by at least 2:1, and the internal parts are all available separately if they ever do require replacement.

 

[whistlepig]

I prefer the Bulldog coupler...:thumbsup:

Me too.

 

[RoMad]

Here is a site I have bought quite a few products from. Might be a good place for you to look. I prefer the type that you flip the handle down for it to latch. I have had a few travel trailers and that is the type they had. If I remember correctly they were Atwood brand. Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924

I think as long as they are properly rated for your trailer any of them will work. If you use an exact replacement you know for sure that it will fit the same on the tongue.

 

[westbrooklawn]

I have 6 trailers of various sizes, capacities, and weights. The smaller ones have 2" couplers, and the larger have 2 5/16" couplers. By far, the coupler I like best is on my 6 1/2 x 10 ft. dual axle dump trailer. While most will argue that it is way overkill, it is the type I would put on my 16' landscape trailer if I ever had to replace the existing coupler. It would require some modification to the trailer for the necessary flat bolt on attachment, but this coupler is by far the easiest I have ever used.

Wallace Forge Flat Mount Trailer Coupler, 25K Wallace Forge Trailer Coupler FC25

 

[whistlepig]

I have 6 trailers of various sizes, capacities, and weights. The smaller ones have 2" couplers, and the larger have 2 5/16" couplers. By far, the coupler I like best is on my 6 1/2 x 10 ft. dual axle dump trailer. While most will argue that it is way overkill, it is the type I would put on my 16' landscape trailer if I ever had to replace the existing coupler. It would require some modification to the trailer for the necessary flat bolt on attachment, but this coupler is by far the easiest I have ever used.

Wallace Forge Flat Mount Trailer Coupler, 25K Wallace Forge Trailer Coupler FC25

Now that's one heck of a heavy duty coupler.

 

[Reg]

I was rear ended when pulling my trailer and now I have to replace the damaged coupler. The trailer is a 16ft 75 inch landscape type trailer with two 3500 lb axle's, one with brakes. The heaviest thing I haul occasionally is my MF1250 tractor with an FEL.

I have a coupler in my stash, but it is too lightweight, so I have to buy a new one. I have looked a little and have seen different type closers that close over the ball on the tow vehicle. Some come down over the ball and some squeeze around the ball. Then there is the ring type coupler. The previous coupler was a 5000 lb A frame that closed over the 2" ball.

If I am going to change the type of coupler, now is the time to do it.

Which type should I get?

Thanks,

Clem

I would avoid the stamped steel ones.
If/when you tap them with the truck they "go oval" and while you may not notice a slight out of round'ness you will almost certainly notice that they become very hard to disconnect.

Bull Dog makes very substantial forged couplers that have a locking sleeve that slides back, then the locking lever springs out to the side, you lower it over the ball, squeeze the lever in and the sleeve springs forwards.
Hard to imagine, and not at all easy to describe (-:
No pins to drop, or forget and leave out, nothing to fiddle with.

 

[weldingisfun]

Bulldog gets my vote.

 

[Workstead]

Thanks for your input. I now know more about couplers than I thought possible. I also have some great suggestions.

I am now considering going with another Atwood 5000# stamped coupler (that held up well during the accident) and a Bulldog coupler. I doubt that there is anyone in my town of 55,000 that has either one but I hope to find out tomorrow.

The Atwood would cost about $40 and the Bulldog about $90, using internet pricing. Pricing isn't a consideration.

Now I will go to the welding forum for suggestions on welding whatever I end up getting.

Clem

 

[greasemonkeyok]

Bull Dog, as others have already noted, is the coupler of choice as far as safety is concerned. Simple, strong, and very reliable.

 

[Reg]

Thanks for your input. I now know more about couplers than I thought possible. I also have some great suggestions.

I am now considering going with another Atwood 5000# stamped coupler (that held up well during the accident) and a Bulldog coupler. I doubt that there is anyone in my town of 55,000 that has either one but I hope to find out tomorrow.

The Atwood would cost about $40 and the Bulldog about $90, using internet pricing. Pricing isn't a consideration.

Now I will go to the welding forum for suggestions on welding whatever I end up getting.

Clem

YIKES !!!
PLEASE DO NOT make this a learn to weld project ?

One more thing about the Bull Dog.
Its shape is about the same as a lemon, but don't take that as a negative.
If/when you back into it that shape will help it deflect to one side or the other, unlike the stamped couplers than just go kinda egg shaped.

Yeah, for "what is riding on it" the 2.x times price over a stamped imported one is probably well worth it.

 

[Workstead]

YIKES !!!
PLEASE DO NOT make this a learn to weld project ?

Reg.

Thanks for the learn to weld warning.

Much like the information I was looking for on the coupler, the best coupler, that's what I'm looking for on welding.

The Bulldog is a weldable cast unit.There are probably a number of rods that will work on this and there is probably one that is better than the others. That's the type of information I'll be looking for.

Also, your comment, and others, about the shape of the front of the coupler is helpful. I have backed into the previous coupler a few times and I'm sure that is why I usually had to "persuade" the coupler to drop onto the ball. The Bulldog will help to eliminate this.

Clem

 

[Skyco]

Personally I would not weld a coupler on if it is boltable. Nothing wrong with bolts and it makes it easily replaceable if needed.

Which Bulldog you looking at that requires or even suggests welding on the cast part? Don't think such exists.