I recently got a quote for a 20' H&H tilt trailer. Aluminum with aluminum deck and two 5200# torsion axles. It's spendy, but seems like it would be handy and corrosion resistant. They won't have any for me to look at until spring, so I am going to hold off until then but if I like what I see that's the direction I'm going to go.
I need help deciding on new trailer
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Degolyerent
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A weight distribution hitch would help a lot. I run one on my F250. Night and day difference. Maybe air bags too. I also run those.
John
John
tjcarguy
Bronze Member
Aluminum is rust free but not corrosion free . Personally I don't like aluminum trailer for this type application. Get's beatup too easy , great for some car applications , but not for utility use IMHO ---Trevor
I know that aluminum will corrode (which is the same oxidation process as steel rusting). Aluminum is actually more reactive than Iron. The difference is that iron oxide is very brittle and doesn't adhere well to the parent iron. Aluminum oxide is extremely hard (it's often used as an abrasive) and adheres very strongly to aluminum. So steel oxidizes, but that oxide is porous and the steel underneath continues to oxidize. Pretty quickly you'll have serious pitting or perforation. Aluminum, on the other hand, oxidizes much faster than the steel but a microscopic layer of aluminum oxide quickly forms and protects the aluminum underneath from the atmosphere and the corrosion stops.
You can take two identical placards of 1/4" steel and aluminum, drill a hole in each one and hang them from a dock on the seaside. In a few years, the steel sheet will probably be gone and the aluminum will look about the same as when you put it there. On the other hand, bolt the steel and aluminum sheet together, and the aluminum will rot away (and serve as a sacrificial anode to protect the steel) due to galvanic corrosion. The exception is at extreme pH. If you expose the aluminum and steel to pH extremes high enough to dissolve aluminum oxide, then the aluminum will corrode extremely quickly because it is such a reactive metal and a hard shell of aluminum oxide isn't being allowed to form to protect it.
Your other point is that aluminum itself is much softer than steel, which is true. And I wouldn't use an aluminum trailer for hauling gravel or things like scrap steel regularly. But my tractor is tiny compared to most and as long as I'm not abusive by dragging implements across the deck, I would expect the all aluminum trailer to far outlast a steel trailer with a wooden deck for my use. I'm also a car guy, so there's a good chance I'll use this trailer to move a car around pretty regularly.
You can take two identical placards of 1/4" steel and aluminum, drill a hole in each one and hang them from a dock on the seaside. In a few years, the steel sheet will probably be gone and the aluminum will look about the same as when you put it there. On the other hand, bolt the steel and aluminum sheet together, and the aluminum will rot away (and serve as a sacrificial anode to protect the steel) due to galvanic corrosion. The exception is at extreme pH. If you expose the aluminum and steel to pH extremes high enough to dissolve aluminum oxide, then the aluminum will corrode extremely quickly because it is such a reactive metal and a hard shell of aluminum oxide isn't being allowed to form to protect it.
Your other point is that aluminum itself is much softer than steel, which is true. And I wouldn't use an aluminum trailer for hauling gravel or things like scrap steel regularly. But my tractor is tiny compared to most and as long as I'm not abusive by dragging implements across the deck, I would expect the all aluminum trailer to far outlast a steel trailer with a wooden deck for my use. I'm also a car guy, so there's a good chance I'll use this trailer to move a car around pretty regularly.
s219
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We used to have a Jerr-Dan rollback car hauler in my dad's construction business for moving equipment and small buildings. It had an aluminum bed frame, and white oak decking. Both took a lot of abuse and held up well. I wouldn't have any concerns about aluminum for a trailer as long as it was built well. I have seen some flimsy aluminum trailers, but they were not equipment trailers. I suspect those are built a lot tougher.
powerscol
Veteran Member
tman1020 - I hate to say this, but as others posted you had you tractor loaded incorrectly. You need to move it back over the trailer axles. However the big issue is you have overloaded you truck hitch, even with weight distribution bars.
The heaviest frame mounted 2" receiver hitch I have run across for a pickup is rated for 600-800 lbs dead load tongue weight, or 1500 to 1800 lbs tong weight, weight distributing type. Most also limit the trailer weight to around 15000 GVW. There should be a tag on you hitch giving capacities, which you probably exceeded.
I just bought a 23 foot PJ deck-over (20' deck with 3' dove tail) to haul my CT 235 with my Hesston 4550 baler. Bale chute sticks out through the ramps with the tractor bucket on top of the GN. I did some number crunching using the trailer dimensions on the PJ site. Assumed an even load distributed along the deck to get tong weight. Quickly l learned I needed a GN as the tong weight exceeded my hitch capacity.
I got the 3' dove tail and extra wide fold up ramps to accommodate the break over angle to load the baler and accommodate the difference in track width between the tractor and baler. It will also be used to haul stacked hay - up to 200 std bales.
BTW - check you tractor tire width - for me I had to go with a deck over as my track width would not fit between the fenders for the baler, and on some trailers the tractor itself.
The heaviest frame mounted 2" receiver hitch I have run across for a pickup is rated for 600-800 lbs dead load tongue weight, or 1500 to 1800 lbs tong weight, weight distributing type. Most also limit the trailer weight to around 15000 GVW. There should be a tag on you hitch giving capacities, which you probably exceeded.
I just bought a 23 foot PJ deck-over (20' deck with 3' dove tail) to haul my CT 235 with my Hesston 4550 baler. Bale chute sticks out through the ramps with the tractor bucket on top of the GN. I did some number crunching using the trailer dimensions on the PJ site. Assumed an even load distributed along the deck to get tong weight. Quickly l learned I needed a GN as the tong weight exceeded my hitch capacity.
I got the 3' dove tail and extra wide fold up ramps to accommodate the break over angle to load the baler and accommodate the difference in track width between the tractor and baler. It will also be used to haul stacked hay - up to 200 std bales.
BTW - check you tractor tire width - for me I had to go with a deck over as my track width would not fit between the fenders for the baler, and on some trailers the tractor itself.
OP
tman1020
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Thank you yes I agree. When I pull the tractor farther back it does level things out more. I have a weight distribution hitch but I hate using it unless I'm hauling a long distance most of my transport is 5 miles or less. I could keep the tractor further back on the trailer and use weight distribution hitch if still needed. I am just not happy with this trailer set up the axles are very far back and where I want to hold my weight is farther forward. Also I think this trailer weights close to 3500 pounds empty. I have not pulled it with my tractor on it yet I think I will give that a try tomorrow. I will try several different configurations. Also I noticed the adjustable Cupler is set wrong for my truck. This may make quite a difference
downslope
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3' seems a little short for a dove tail on a deckover, did you have it built special that way? Most of the one's I've seen are 4' or 5'. I'm thinking a longer dove would help with the breakover but maybe I'm wrong about that.
powerscol
Veteran Member
I had it built that way. I did get drawings on the different angle configurations from PJ and others to make the call. What helps is the extra length on the fold up ramps. I wanted to stay short, and this fit the needs. When I haul hay I add a plywood deck over the dove tail to make the deck totally flat. Also I believe PJ is the only one offering a 3 foot dove tail.
gkm
Silver Member
Check out Sure-Trac trailers. I bought an 18' w/radials, spare, removable fender, diamond plate bed, 7k jack and rated for 10k. The trailer is powder coated, frame constructed with tubing, excellent welds, all led lighting, sealed harness, etc. I loaded my tractor and additional attachments at very close to the trailer weight limit and it tows like a dream. It's almost like you don't have a trailer hooked up.
The pricing iis very competitive and I was all in at a little over 3.5k. No, I don't work for them or have any affiliation. I just have never seen anything about these awesome trailers on tbn.
FWIW, I purchased mine from 'The Hitchman' in Maryland. Great place with good, friendly, honest staff.
The pricing iis very competitive and I was all in at a little over 3.5k. No, I don't work for them or have any affiliation. I just have never seen anything about these awesome trailers on tbn.
FWIW, I purchased mine from 'The Hitchman' in Maryland. Great place with good, friendly, honest staff.
