Ideas for cannon ball extraction?

[Tomtint]

Id mix a gallon of transmission fluid and 1/2 gallon of mystery oil and pour it down there..let it sit for a fed days, then dump it out.. hang the cannon upside down and bounce it on a hard surface. The weight of the ball alone should cause it to break loose when the cannon itself stops.

 

[2manyrocks]

I'd strongly recommend patience in whatever you choose to do. This problem was decades in the making. Take your time finding the best solution whatever that may be.

I recently had a very stuck PTO shaft that wouldn't even come apart after being chained to a stump and being pulled with a full size tractor. Took me two or three months of repeat applications of Kroil oil (until I ran out) and then a mixture of ATF fluid + paint solvent. Then it decided to free up and came apart pulling it by hand without damage. I really think it just took time for the ATF fluid to work itself into the corrosion to free things up.

You don't want to putting anything in the bore that is going to cause corrosion down the road. I'd also been leery of hard hits on the barrel that could cause something to unexpectedly fracture.

Take your time.....

 

[Buggs67]

Id mix a gallon of transmission fluid and 1/2 gallon of mystery oil and pour it down there..let it sit for a fed days, then dump it out.. hang the cannon upside down and bounce it on a hard surface. The weight of the ball alone should cause it to break loose when the cannon itself stops.

I was thinking along the same lines. ATF is a good cleaner/solvent. Clean out what crap in in front of the ball first.

Also tapping the fuse hole for a zerk is good; then just cut off the top of the zerk and you have a new fuse hole.

My neighbor makes cannons just like this. 2 1/8" bore, fir a 4 lb lead slug. If that's a lead ball he could just bore it out.

 

[2manyrocks]

Can your neighbor make one that fits a 3pt hitch?

 

[npalen]

Can your neighbor make one that fits a 3pt hitch?

Now this thread may take on a whole new twist! How about an SSQA mount for the FEL for multi trajectory selection?

 

[Buggs67]

Can your neighbor make one that fits a 3pt hitch?

If it can be turned on a lathe, machined on a mill or welded he can make it. He made his own Gatling gun from scratch; fired .45 ACP. Also made a .50 cal bolt action from a barrel someone gave him from a Ma Deuce.

 

[hosspuller]

If bumping the muzzle vertically on a wood block isn't used. I like the grease gun idea myself... I would stay away from any compressed air or explosives. Even with 100 psi air, when it lets go, the ball will be traveling at speed. Many people have been surprised when using air to force hydraulic pistons from a cylinder.

 

[2manyrocks]

IDK, I wondered if he could pull it out with a fishing magnet after the bore has been cleaned and the ball has been loosened with some kind of penetrating fluid if won't fall out on its own? Or ask Buggs67 neighbor what he'd do? Maybe he could make a bore worm if that's the tool needed?

 

[turnkey4099]

Rig it to hoist vertically nose down, lift as high as you can, rig to stop just before it hits ground. Drop it.

 

[JethroB]

To add to those suggestions to let gravity work along with dropping the barrel on its nose or shaking it, etc. Rent or borrow a concrete vibrator and strap it to the barrel and hopefully the shake, rattle, and over time ,,,, will cause a roll.

3/4 HP Concrete Vibrator

Amazing deals on this 3/4 Hp Concrete Vibrator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[dmccarty]

After cleaning and oiling the bore, how about using an glob of epoxy adhesive, aka, JB Weld, on the end of a dowel pushed onto the cannon ball. Let it cure and see if it will move the ball. Might help to have the cannon sorta pointing at the ground if possible so the "glob" does not fall off the dowel. Block the dowel so it does not move at the muzzle while the epoxy cures. Put some paper, rags or some such up against the ball to capture any epoxy that falls off the dowel or ball. The paper, rags, or some such can help hold up the dowel while the epoxy cures.

Interesting problem that is for sure.

My father in law found a cannon in the Cape Fear river when he was a kid. It had been dredged up from the channel at some point. He got it to shore and eventually it was displayed at a museum in central NC even though he still owns the cannon. We wonder if we can find the cannon and claim it back....

Later,
Dan

 

[/pine]

I didn't read this whole thread...but I would wager a well equipped body shop has the right extensions etc. for a porta power set up or a cheapo one can be had at HF for a couple hundred bucks...!

https://www.google.com/search?q=porta+power+kit&ie=utf

 

[jmc]

To add to those suggestions to let gravity work along with dropping the barrel on its nose or shaking it, etc. Rent or borrow a concrete vibrator and strap it to the barrel and hopefully the shake, rattle, and over time ,,,, will cause a roll.

3/4 HP Concrete Vibrator

Amazing deals on this 3/4 Hp Concrete Vibrator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Youtube of a guy casting his own concrete creations using a reciprocating sawzall (w/o blade) to vibrate air pockets out of the wet concrete. Not 3/4 HP but easy to try first.

 

[Richard]

Bit of an update.

No hone yet, but I have the bore "cleaner" which is very much like a 2 1/2" "Q-Tip". It's an oak ram with a bolt on the end. The bolt holds on 30-50 circular fabric circles. You put this in there to (I presume) clean the bore between shots.

Well... I put water in the bore. Got the ball moving outward but, not 'out'. Tamped it back in. Used this bore cleaner. Spent maybe an hour doing this and got a LOT of dirt out of the bore. The water at least, now comes out clean verses black.

I'm convinced there was no powder in there for those concerned about that. Even now if there was, it's totally water-logged so I'm not worried at all about any kind of discharge.

Every time I got the ball to move one way or another, I'd see stuff in there, I'll just call it junk or chaff. Not huge amounts but enough to make things stick.

Thinking about someone's comment about using some Coke in there to dissolve things, not knowing if that would work or not, I moved cannon under the overhang, dumped a can of Coke in there and will look at it tomorrow. I have the ball able (with force applied) to move maybe 10 inches back/forth. Mind you, I have to take the ram to push it back and then pressurized water to push it towards the muzzle. The ball does not roll around at all on its own.

Measured the bore and it appears to be 2.20 inches.

 

[Root Cause]

I am guessing that the bore is no longer the issue but rather the ball itself.
How round was it originally and how much gunk has coated it?

I might concentrate on filling the bore so whatever chemical you choose covers the entire ball and eats at the entire surface not just the current contact point at the moment.

Keep us informed and glad it isn't active.

 

[newbury]

Like suggested - keep cleaning, hot day, tamping on wood

I have the ball able (with force applied) to move maybe 10 inches back/forth.

What's the total bore length? 30"?
Your almost there!
Remember to lubricate after cleaning!

 

[Richard]

I might concentrate on filling the bore so whatever chemical you choose covers the entire ball and eats at the entire surface not just the current contact point at the moment.

Totally agree. When I was using water, I filled it to the tip....let it seep past the ball and kept filling, then I used the bore cleaner. I had water squirting out the ignition hole, much like a drinking fountain however, I could get it to go maybe 10' in the air. So much of any loose stuff that was behind the ball might also be rinsed out. It washed the sides but I don't think it removed any rough material.

The ball seems to seal at (let's jut say) 15" inside the bore. When the ball gets pushed back to (let's say) 25" down the bore, you can easily see a gap at the top.... so the idea of the ball being deformed has been on my mind the entire time. Either that or the bore is very uneven. Looking down with flashlight, I don't see any obvious deformations of the bore however, that is a very casual comment as I've nothing to really compare it with. Still, going by the seat of the pants, I'm leaning to the ball being deformed.

Looking at the ball down the bore, It has me thinking these are maybe painted. I see some discoloration spots on it but instead of looking discolored, they look shiny like the paint has flaked off.

 

[npalen]

I don't recall anyone suggesting a small amount of black powder along with an ignition source to dislodge the ball. I'm not suggesting that scenario, however, just pointing out the fact that no one has, at least to my knowledge.

 

[Egon]

Use vinegar, coke or anther fluid containing phosphoric acid and completely fill the barrel and let and let sit for a few days. Then drain and scrub out the bore with wire brush or Sandpaper or whatever. Then proceed as you have been Using water pressure.

 

[Root Cause]

Totally agree. When I was using water, I filled it to the tip....let it seep past the ball and kept filling, then I used the bore cleaner. I had water squirting out the ignition hole, much like a drinking fountain however, I could get it to go maybe 10' in the air. So much of any loose stuff that was behind the ball might also be rinsed out. It washed the sides but I don't think it removed any rough material.

The ball seems to seal at (let's jut say) 15" inside the bore. When the ball gets pushed back to (let's say) 25" down the bore, you can easily see a gap at the top.... so the idea of the ball being deformed has been on my mind the entire time. Either that or the bore is very uneven. Looking down with flashlight, I don't see any obvious deformations of the bore however, that is a very casual comment as I've nothing to really compare it with. Still, going by the seat of the pants, I'm leaning to the ball being deformed.

Looking at the ball down the bore, It has me thinking these are maybe painted. I see some discoloration spots on it but instead of looking discolored, they look shiny like the paint has flaked off.

Very interesting, indeed.

I am guessing that drilling a round hole (bore) would have been much easier to machine than making a sphere perfectly round which allowed me to keep just a few steps behind you.

Sounds like what you are doing is working and will have it soon enough.