Interesting article about oil change interval

[gsxr1100]

Dean,
the hat is a “special one”. No lube needed! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The fur has special oils that are impregnated for life! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I am not an oil guru at all. Always learning. Same thing at work, people think just because I have been designing aerospace for XX years that I am a guru. Still learning. The problem with some info is by the time you read it and are able to understand it, it is obsoleted.

 

[gsxr1100]

I use Amsoil 15w-40 and change once per year in my bx22. Going to try their Series 3000 5w30 and then compare to there 15w40. I kind of have an idea on what the outcome will be but I need to see the data. Going to drain the 15w-40 this month and then install the 5w-30.

It, Amsoil is NOT the best oil inthe world. There are better oils but for the added benefits and what you get, I feel it is the best "bang for the doller" out there. If a better oil comes out for a cheaper $$$, I will try it.

Is Delvac good sure but for me a few more $$$ and a better oil, I will take it.

 

[tomnky]

Please elaborate on the statement" Once You use synthetic , You can't go back"

I need some reasoning here Mike.

Thanks
Tom

 

[gsxr1100]

I never stated you can't. I posted, "The filter issue is about as good as you can't switch back to dino once you go to synthetic. "

It was myth back in the day that once you went to synthetic you can;t go back to dino. Again, old info.

 

[tomnky]

Must have been one of My senior moments. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

no moment. I was jsut "venting a tad" . I just posted that since it was as good as the "filters are not that great either".

 

[KAB]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Not to hijack this thread but related.....

My wife's new truck has an on-board oil sensor that displays a % life left in the engine oil. What exactly is the sensor measuring?

Any ideas?

Brian )</font>

If you have a GM vehicle it looks at basically 3 items: Time, Temperature (ambient/engine), and RPM (Combustion events). It does this as an ongoing process, not an average per trip. A computer has calculations built into it to start a 100% and slowly decrease to 10%. At 10% you will be notified to change the oil. Recommended to be changed within 600 miles. They also recommend that it be changed a minimum of once a year or 10 - 12,000 max (depending on vehicle). GM acutally estimates the ave. vehicle will come on between 5-6000 miles. My eco-tech (4-cyl) highway driving 7500 miles and my wifes 4.2 6cyl about 9000 miles of combined city/highway.

The biggest problem I have when explaining this to others is the old 3months/3000mile belief. We (as people) have a hard time of accepting change and this is a big change, but we have accepted change in all other kinds of technology. Most people do not check their oil with every tank of gas (adding as needed), enjoy fuel injection (over carburated), have engines that last longer (with less maintenance), nolonger need to change oil at least twice a year (multi viscosity oil), better quality oil, more additives in oil so it last longer, synthetic oils, etc..

I have been reading all of the oil discussions today (there have been many) and from reading the post and from personal experience there is no right or wrong for oil beliefs - To each his own - for those that don't mind the old way of doing things - Keep it up - For those of us who choose to try the new way - Good Luck .

Kurt

 

[JoeR]

Kurt,

You forgot to add that people forgot about putting snow tires on their car in the winter too, and we used to jack the car up from the bumper. Remember the notch on each side of the bumper where the jack would go? And the high beam switch was a push button on the floor on the left side. Don't forget to double clutch with the shifter on the column!

Sorry about that, when you mentioned carburetor, and checking the oil every time you filled the tank I had flashbacks to my mother's 64 chevy bel-air. Burned at least a quart every two weeks!

Joe

 

[getut]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Fe- 5, 11
Cr- 0, 0
Ni-0. 10
Al- 2 ,3
Pb- 6, 10
Cu- 2, 11
Sn- 1, 1
Ag- 0, 0
Ti -0, 0
Si -16, 17
B -125, 27
Na- 6,12
Mo- 44, 1
P- 668, 1161
Zn- 757, 1175
Ca- 2991, 2643
Barium- 0, 0
Mg- 13, 797
TBN- 4.5, 3.3
)</font>

Mike.. I've been meaning to ask this one for a long time. I'm already an Amsoil user so you're not having to win me over.. just asking out of curiosity.

The numbers above are all fine and good. But what exactly do they mean. Which chemicals in oil are bad (lower number better)? Which are good (higher numbers better)? Are they ALWAYS bad or good???? The chemicals may interact differently in one brands formulation that doesn't react that way in another.... In other words.. this particular chemical.. bad in one oil, but good in another oil. Just like the statement about additives in modern oils. It is not always a specific chemical that is bad... it may only be that chemical in conjunction with another that creates a bad situation.

 

[gsxr1100]

Look for the wear numbers (Fe, Ni, Cu etc). Each metal goes to something wereing out. They should be very low as can be. The Zn, P, and TBN need to be high for longer drains. The Mg is another add that is good. Same with Ca. Example, si (dirt), if it is high, get a better air cleaner. TBN is good. If you have high Nox or OXD you will have a low TBN. So if your TBN is low to start with, your NOX and OCD will go up faster.

Mobil 1 oils for the most part are low in ZDDP etc. Just looking at the numbers my ZDDP is higher after 3X as longer in service and the wear number still look good.

Here is their new and there old. For Ref.