john deere 410 backhoe barely moves forward but moves in reverse ok

[Jack999]

The trans pump is just a gear pump that bolts to the reverse brake housing. Check your service manual there may be a way to adjust relief valve on the reverser clutch control valve that bolts onto the side of the reverser. Without my manual I can't remember for sure what the relief in the reverser control does exactly.
When you had the reverser out, did you replace all sealing rings in both clutch packs and the orings on all of the tubes inside?
You can air test this unit just like an auto transmission. When you add air to the proper tube, you can hear the clutch packs engage.

I did change the seal rings in the forward clutch pack and the orings on the tubs inside but the reverser clutch disk'pads and seals looked like new.
I'm thinking on changing all the springs in the reverser clutch control valve assembly to see if I can get the pressure up on the forward port and may be
add some shims but I will try new springs first' I just ordered them so waiting for them to come in. Does anyone have any other suggestions because I'm
running out of things to check and I need to get this frustrating machine going. Thanks

 

[Cpjlube]

If you drop the rear stabilizers and raise the rear wheels, you can keep the machine stationary and test. Also you could remove a floor plate and run the gauge up to the operator seat.
I wonder if you raise the rear wheels and put it in forward if it will turn. Mine had a snap ring failure on reverse that prevented complete clutch lock up. But it would move a little bit with wheels raised.
Just an idea.
Do you have the service manual? I'll check mine today. There is relief valve in the reverser clutch control valve.

 

[Jack999]

If you drop the rear stabilizers and raise the rear wheels, you can keep the machine stationary and test. Also you could remove a floor plate and run the gauge up to the operator seat.
I wonder if you raise the rear wheels and put it in forward if it will turn. Mine had a snap ring failure on reverse that prevented complete clutch lock up. But it would move a little bit with wheels raised.
Just an idea.
Do you have the service manual? I'll check mine today. There is relief valve in the reverser clutch control valve.

Thanks Cpjlube for replying
I'm running out of ideas here and no I don't have a service manual I'm just going off of what I have read on the Internet for problem that are the same as mine or close. I did raise the backhoe up at the back and put it in forward and the wheels did turn slow. I got my springs in for the reverser clutch control valve assembly but when I had it apart I notices that the piston was scored up alittle and wondering if I should change it to before I put it back together. Any other Ideas maybe what to look for. Thanks again

 

[Jack999]

Thanks Cpjlube for replying
I'm running out of ideas here and no I don't have a service manual I'm just going off of what I have read on the Internet for problem that are the same as mine or close. I did raise the backhoe up at the back and put it in forward and the wheels did turn slow. I got my springs in for the reverser clutch control valve assembly but when I had it apart I notices that the piston was scored up alittle and wondering if I should change it to before I put it back together. Any other Ideas maybe what to look for. Thanks again

Just an update ' I ordered a new piston' pressure relief valve and all the pin fasteners for the reverser clutch control valve assembly with all the springs so everything will almost be new in it. If this doesn't work I can always sell it for scrap metal

 

[buickanddeere]

A service manual costs less than randomly purchasing parts over and over . Plus your time hoping that this time it will work. Then scrapping the project .

 

[Cpjlube]

A service manual costs less than randomly purchasing parts over and over . Plus your time hoping that this time it will work. Then scrapping the project .

I totally agree. I just completely rebuilt my reverser. Without that repair manual and parts list, it would just be a pile of parts or a broken machine.
Buy the repair manual and parts list and fix it right. The piston you are referring to is an acumulator in the reverser control valve. Probly not related to your issue.
There is a ton of knowledge on this site but without the manuals you will have trouble understanding what people are referring to. Trust me they are worth gold.

 

[jb1390]

I totally agree. I just completely rebuilt my reverser. Without that repair manual and parts list, it would just be a pile of parts or a broken machine.
Buy the repair manual and parts list and fix it right. The piston you are referring to is an acumulator in the reverser control valve. Probly not related to your issue.
There is a ton of knowledge on this site but without the manuals you will have trouble understanding what people are referring to. Trust me they are worth gold.

I concur with what others have stated regarding a manual.

Did you test the reverser to ensure that the clutch packs actually engage under pressure (using compressed air) before you reassembled the tractor? If not, there is no guarantee that you are not missing a clutch plate, or that the clutch piston is not binding. The fact that it holds 100 psi would indicate that the o-ring seal is ok, 100 psi should be more than enough to get the tractor to move. I suspect that your clutch plates are not engaging correctly.

You can eliminate the valve as the cause by removing it and attempting to engage the clutches using air. Prop the back wheels, spin by hand and ensure the clutches actually grab.

There is a place in northern maine that sells used JD and older equipment parts. He has stuff for the reverser assembly, etc. Not sure how you resolved your snap ring issue - but I think there's a chance that it could be the root cause of your current clutch issue.

 

[Cpjlube]

I bought reverser parts from a few different used parts places. You will need the part numbers to get the right part. One more reason to get parts list.......

 

[jd110]

I haven't been on this thread for a while, so I scanned back through the posts. After seeing the picture of the worn clutch drum, I wonder what your piston looked like. Are you sure it wasn't worn and causing leakage from the seals? Also, did you replace the metal sealing rings on the back of the drum where it fits into the clutch housing? The bushing/sleeve that the sealing rings seal against often gets worn and needs to be replaced. New sealing rings won't seat on an irregular surface. REference items 1 & 2a or 2b in diagram. Also be sure to check the forward/reverse linkage to be sure it is shifting fully into forward.

 

[Cpjlube]

I haven't been on this thread for a while, so I scanned back through the posts. After seeing the picture of the worn clutch drum, I wonder what your piston looked like. Are you sure it wasn't worn and causing leakage from the seals? Also, did you replace the metal sealing rings on the back of the drum where it fits into the clutch housing? The bushing/sleeve that the sealing rings seal against often gets worn and needs to be replaced. New sealing rings won't seat on an irregular surface. REference items 1 & 2a or 2b in diagram. Also be sure to check the forward/reverse linkage to be sure it is shifting fully into forward.

The sealing rings in the forward clutch housing were rubber on my 410. But that snap ring groove wear looks bad. I would test clutch lockup with air. I bet it needs a new housing. I bet it's under 300 to buy. Better than scrapping it.