logging winch

[8404]

As they are designed for power steering pumps, most tractors beat that gpm.

I was also wondering if the mile marker winch was supplied more GPM. what would happen. if you keep the pressure under 1500psi maby just the speed would be faster with more GPM.???Im not saying 18GPM but maby just 8GPM more. As far as finding more way to use a winch other than self recovery, you are right ill find new ways to use it and ill also put my tractor into more places that i might get stuck since ill have a way to get out. I seen something like a auger thing you can twist into the ground and use as an anchor to pull out with.

can you show pictures on how your winch is set up and what brand of winch you have?

 

[6sunset6]

My tractor is just a 40hp. it came with one rear remote i wanted to use to supply the winch power. and run lines up to the front to a front mount winch.
I mow for extra money durring the summers and i work alone and i need a reliable way of getting out of trouble in the fields i mow. sometimes ill be stuck 100 yards from a road and i want to use a hydraulic winch because of the long durration winching pulls i might run into to get free.

thanks for taking time to explane your set up I think i can get the same parts and use them. except the solinoid valve, i want to use my rear remote to control in and out of the winch from the tractors seat.

Yup that would work. The mile marker two speed has a neutral position which will allow you to pull the cable out by hand. Power unspooling from the seat will not help if the tractor is stuck. More than likely you will have a birds nest on the spool. Sometimes the cable is stuck on the drum, particularly after winching in a load. To free it you have to attach it to an anchor and back down, also hard to do if you are stuck. So make sure after you unstick yourself the cable is free for next time. The only other concern I have is running the winch from the seat. If something snaps the line of flight is right at the seat. That's why logging winches have those shields and are operated from the side. You will have to decide how you want to handle this risk.
1. not at all
2. cage or guard
3. operate from the side of behind . You could put a line on the valve handle and stand behind he tractor. make sure pull back spools in.

 

[rdbrumfield]

I have built 3pt winches in the past using koenig units. Another company took them over and I have tried to contact them without results. I come across a couple of hyd units and picked them up. When I was in production, I used pto units.

Here is a pic of my installation up front and the one for the rear, both being hyd. The rear unit I just put together this last fall. I have it on most of the time as it is handy with the hitch system built in. I generally leave the upper arm on, but can use the normal toplink if needed.

As you can see the front winch is well used. I took the rollers off the front and use a small pulley if I have to pull sideways on the eye on the bucket. Only had to do that once as I was stuck against a fence and had to be pulled sideways. Other than that, it is an easy matter to turn a bit this way and that to spool the cable in evenly.

What is so nice about having the winch up front in my apps, is that when cleaning up brush and such, taking the cable and lying it on the ground, throwing the limbs, brush, whatever onto it, hooking, and winching it into a bundle to be packed or loaded. Stuff that you cannot keep in the bucket. I picked up a grapple bucket from a bobcat that I am converting to a quick release like my bucket and the hoses for the winch will quick disconnect to run the grapple. In the meantime, the winch works great for all around needs.

Normally when picking to load I use a tripod on the loader with the bucket off.

Was in a hurry to load this and wasn't spooling so didn't put the block on the shackle. this weighs 1250

 

[8404]

Yup that would work. The mile marker two speed has a neutral position which will allow you to pull the cable out by hand. Power unspooling from the seat will not help if the tractor is stuck. More than likely you will have a birds nest on the spool. Sometimes the cable is stuck on the drum, particularly after winching in a load. To free it you have to attach it to an anchor and back down, also hard to do if you are stuck. So make sure after you unstick yourself the cable is free for next time. The only other concern I have is running the winch from the seat. If something snaps the line of flight is right at the seat. That's why logging winches have those shields and are operated from the side. You will have to decide how you want to handle this risk.
1. not at all
2. cage or guard
3. operate from the side of behind . You could put a line on the valve handle and stand behind he tractor. make sure pull back spools in.

this is a good point about cable breaking, i guess i could order the MIle marker winch that includes the control solinoid that is located on the top of the winch it cost about 100.00 more and already has a flow controler built in so ill save on not buying a seperat flow controler. but this would mean haveing the original rear remote in the on position supplying the front electric control solinoid with pressure then controling it with the hand held remote.


rkbrumfield, thanks for the pictures those winches appear to have much larger hydro motors than the mile marker one does. they probley can handle much higher pressurs too.

 

[6sunset6]

It has been a while. broke my wrist, that really slows things down. Cold in the unheated shop. Then my wife and I went to a place where when we looked south we would see Antarctica. If we could see it. A really long way from home.
Then we went further from home. Cape Horn and Easter Island. Saw a lot of Massey Ferguson tractors.
Now back to work on the winch. It fits on the tractor. I think before I do anymore steel work I will hook up 2 more hoses and wire the valve up and see if it works.

 

[6sunset6]

I wired up all the electrical stuff, including a back up alarm on the spool in command. It all seems to work. hyd solenoid picks one side and then the other.
The wireless transmit/receive seemed to pick and hold better when the tractor was running. Little higher voltage I guess. Remember this is a gate opener system , transmit/receive only. I have to hold the button down for continuous operation. It's a good dead man that way, let go of the button and it stops. It looks like it will pick out to 20ft reliably , I was hoping for a lot more. There are longer range ones available or I could abandon wireless and use a switch on a cord. The winch will free spool out so a switch on a cord would work. No worse than the rope on the commercial units. No clutch, but that is what the cross over relief is for. I guess if I was not going to go wireless from the start I would have used a mechanical valve , spring centered , and pulled it from the side.
I am trying to decide what to do next. Put oil in it and then have to take it all a part for some welding and painting or take it apart now ( assuming it will work) and finish the structural stuff. I am leaning toward putting oil in it now.

 

[easygo]

I would put the oil to it and let it turn over a few times just for testing. No so much as I would not trust it to work but for me it is always a morale booster just to see the equipment work as intended (if possible) before putting in the final push.


Just a few weeks ago I bought a #9000 Mile Marker that is about 10 years old and never has been installed or used. It looks a bit weathered having lived in an unheated shed all that time. I will try to start my own project sometime in the Summer. Your thread is very informative and most helpful.

 

[Chilly807]

I think I'll keep my eye open for a hydraulic winch too... speed isn't much of a concern for me, and I have to add a rear remote to the tractor anyway. I think I'll go for the spring return valve with a rope, I don't like electronics under the conditions this will run in over the years. I have to walk back to the tractor anyway to unhook the log.

How much cable are you able to put on the winch?

Chilly

 

[6sunset6]

The Mile Marker comes with 100 ft of 3/8 aircraft cable rated at 14,400 # working load I would think. I think it will take 150ft of 5/16 Amstel blue. 13,700# average working.

 

[6sunset6]

I am almost finished with construction. Now I know why the commercial units bend then the shield back at the top. I thought it had something to do with deflecting flying objects . I started to do the bends but it was looking not so good so I abandoned it. As it turns out if the 3 point is up and the top link retracted ( assuming one has a hydraulic top link) then there is interference between the safety shield and the Rops. The solution would be to bend the shield. I think I could still do that. Or cut off the Rops, right. Or be careful . or put a sleeve stop on the top link. Or put the fixed top link back on , right.
I think I will leave it for a while and see if I can be careful.
The last thing I was going to do was cut off the carry all carrier legs but then I thought , what a good way to carry 7' logs out instead of dragging them all the way out. So head out with forks on front and carry all sort of forks on the back, winch out the logs, cut into 7' lengths , roll onto the forks and take it away. I can see I need some sort of spring loaded keepers at the end of the arms to keep the first row of logs in place.
All I have left to do is attach a tool box for chain saw etc and wire up the valve. I am going to get a cover plate for the D03 manifold so I can flush the system with out the valve in place. Also take the winch motor out of the circuit when flushing. I will just connect the pump lines with a fitting.
I probably have 100 hours in this thing. Oh yeah I am not fussy about paint colors, I want it not to rust so it's Rustoleum primer and some color that was close to the carry all, but after that it's what ever is around.