Long Hydraulic Hose Routing Question...

[Artisan]

Are there any hydraulic hose journeymen / pros here that can take
a look at my project and perhaps make some suggestions please? It is a
long way from the diverter valve (green) to the grapples cylinder at full
dump / curl. What is the best way to do this?

I am considering welding 2- male x male whatnot fittings* on and near the top
of my FEL Bucket, perhaps onto the 3.5" angle iron I welded onto the top
edge of the bucket that supports the grapple's mount. So perhaps
plumb two hoses from the FASSE Diverter Valve (green) to the 2 male x male
fittings on the backside and near the top of the bucket,
then 2 more hoses from there to the grapple's cylinder.
Ya think? Better ideas? I am all ears!

CLICK HERE to see the one post within my thread; BX25 GrappleOmatic or
view the whole thread CLICK HERE, or here is a picture.

Please disreguard the halloween prop / noose, it was holding the bucket while I had hoses off.

I may put a pair of quick disconnects there too.

 

[SSdoxie]

Artisan,
You are on the right path. If it were mine I would tie the grapple hoses to the bucket cylinder barrel, use something easily removed in case you want to remove the grapple. Then mid-way between that cylinder tie and the grapple clamp the 2 hoses together and connect a rubber strap (bunging cord) from ther back to the frame of the boom just below the diveter valve, this will help pull the hoses up out of harms way when bucket is rolled back.

 

[wdchyd]

The "whatnot fittings" you need are called bulkhead fittings

JIC Bulkhead Union

They don't require welding (the bracket will) and they are avail in straight/90's and different types ect......

 

[Zebrafive]

Not an expert or journeyman by any means. I would mount bulkhead fittings on the bucket. Hoses from the cylinder to the bulkhead fittings. The hoses from the diverter valve along the inside of the left loader arm (right in picture) to the bulkhead fitting.

Next I would rig a tarp strap from the diverter valve to the hoses. It would stretch at full dump and still have a little tension at full curl to keep the hoses out of pinch points and from dragging the ground. Use heavy duty tie wrap to secure tarp strap to hoses.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The axis going across from bucket pin to bucket pin is neutral. If you put a bracket [rod between 2pcs of angle] along this line or just a little above, you can do a 1 loop wrap of hose around it and then have them extend up to the top of the bucket. This will help you a bunch. Sheath the two hoses together in that woven ballistic nylon sleaving. Best to put your diverter far left and the wrap rod nearer center so the hoses run diagonal some, and thus spiral around the rod. This controls the hoses quite nicely. Depending which way you wrap, the spiral will loosen or tighten just a little as you dump the bucket. I believe tightening on dump works out best for hose mechanics. I think it would be best to run the hoses one piece all the way to the grapple cyl ports to help compliance during motion. 1/4" hoses w JIC 6 ends and rt angle adapters into cyl ports and a couple strategic zip ties makes a very clean setup.
...Have you braced the front side of the top edge of your bucket?
larry

 

[Artisan]

Some excellent input. I'll re-read later and really try to absorb the scenarios.
There is more than one way to skin a cat, it is the most elegant / functional
way w/ as little pain as possible that is desired.

I don't know if there are
any tools that will run on the, I think about 3gpm to that area but I am
considering some quick disconnects up there as well, if for nothing else a
quick removal of the grapple hook.

Yes, bulkhead fittings, are a thought.

I am thinking maybe I will make two hoses that just reach at full stretch,
make sure were all good then find a spot and a method at a somewhat
"neutral" area to mount a juncture.

Yes the top of tehe bucket was reinforced, CLICK HERE .

If you guys run into any pics of your methods please link me up!

BUMP!

 

[J_J]

Artisan,

As far as hyd implements up front, a hyd auger comes to mind.

Just make the grapple hose with QD's.

Everything is looking good, very good pictures. Keep up the good work.

You know you want a Ratchet Rake.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Artisan,

As far as hyd implements up front, a hyd auger comes to mind.

Just make the grapple hose with QD's.

Everything is looking good, very good pictures. Keep up the good work.

You know you want a Ratchet Rake.

In that case run 3/8 hose to supply the diverter.
larry

 

[Artisan]

I haven't looked into an auger, yet, how many GPM do the small ones need at what pressure? Will a BX25 push them? Yes, a FEL mounted auger would be very desirable, but it will have ot run off the volumn a 1/4" ID hose will give or I have to pull from somewhere else.

 

[Artisan]

Yep, right again J_J! :thumbsup: Another accessory on my wanted list!

 

[J_J]

Use 3/8 hose until you get to where you plug in the grapple. Then use 1/4 in hose to the grapple.

An auger will work at very low rpm, and the hyd GPM dictate the rpm, so it depends on the cu in of the hyd motor. Of course the larger cu in motor will generate the most torque, and run at the lowest speed.

What is good about the front mounted auger, is that you can put down pressure on it and help it dig better. and you can reverse the auger if it locks up or stalls.

3 GPM using a 4 cu in hyd motor will produce about 173 rpm.


One of the PowerTrac guys made this auger.

 

[srs]

Are there any hydraulic hose journeymen / pros here that can take
a look at my project and perhaps make some suggestions please?

Artisan, here are a couple of photos showing how I ran the lines from the REAR remotes to the front for angling my snowplow. Of course yours will be from the valve body. The first two photos are the disconnects that are used when I take the loader off. Followed by the 3rd photo showing the lines running down the loader arm, and the 4th terminating at the bulkhead connections (I think that is what these are called) at the front of the loader arms. Hope this helps. Keep up the good work. Stanley

 

[nickel plate]

Artisan,
Here are a few shots that I've posted before. Just some examples of my home made "L" brackets cut from 3"x4"x1/4" angle stock used to make 90 degree turns for the 1/2" bulkhead fittings, 3/8" hose spacers down the loader arm and hose slack for the bucket curl. Assuming your FEL detaches, you'll need a QC upstream from that attachment point with an "S" hose curve similar to your FEL hose curve and at least one more close to and before the grapple itself in case you just want to take the detachable grapple off of the bucket for digging purposes or whatever.
Your work looks very clean so spending a few more bucks on hydraulic QC fittings (check out your local TSC) isn't going to be life altering and should last if properly cared for, the life of the tractor.
What's with the hangman's noose????:laughing:

 

[wdchyd]

Nice Job Nickleplate, the nylon sleeve adds a nice touch too..:thumbsup:

 

[jmolwitz]

Thanks for the pix Nickel Plate I have to secure my lines as well :thumbsup: those brackets are nicely finished .

 

[Artisan]

Thank You
Thank You
Thank You

Nice work! I got mine up and running and there is a YouTube as well here.
Time may see a hose routing change, I am not sure yet. Right now it
works w/o further work.

I wonder if a pump could be added to the PTO rear w/o removing the hoe
or the MMM PTO (preferably) since I do not have a MMM, w/ a small tank/filter ? Oh gawd...here we go again. :laughing:

 

[nickel plate]

Thanks for the pix Nickel Plate I have to secure my lines as well :thumbsup: those brackets are nicely finished .

Hacksaw, grinder, file and a NH rattle can. Thanks for your comment, a lot of shop hours in three of those brackets and backing plates. The one at the loader dock (pictured) has some complex angles for fitment purposes.

 

[nickel plate]

Nice Job Nickleplate, the nylon sleeve adds a nice touch too..:thumbsup:

And man, are they expensive but designed to take the shock and pressure of a blown hose. I have them for the hoses that run from the RRs and under the tractor to the FEL dock, the "S" flex at the loader arm and the flex area from the torque tube to the grapple cylinder. Thank you for the comment.

 

[J_J]

Thank You
Thank You
Thank You

Nice work! I got mine up and running and there is a YouTube as well here.
Time may see a hose routing change, I am not sure yet. Right now it
works w/o further work.

I wonder if a pump could be added to the PTO rear w/o removing the hoe
or the MMM PTO (preferably) since I do not have a MMM, w/ a small tank/filter ? Oh gawd...here we go again. :laughing:

Some BH's come with there own PTO pump, so yes you can add a PTO pump and reservoir.

I believe you only have about 3 GPM for implements, so a BH PTO would work for you.

You could use the BH on 3GPM, but it would be a little slow, would still have about the same pressure.

 

[Artisan]

Some BH's come with there own PTO pump, so yes you can add a PTO pump and reservoir.

I believe you only have about 3 GPM for implements, so a BH PTO would work for you.

You could use the BH on 3GPM, but it would be a little slow, would still have about the same pressure.

J_J if you see anything along these lines give me a shout please. I can't
picture how much room is available at the rear, I would really want to keep
the BH on, I guess if there were a way to add a pump to the MMM PTO
that would be optimal for me since I will never have a MMM, Maybe a
trans that slows it down to 540? Then a guy could run 3/8" hoses to
the rear or the front or out the side ot run HandHeld Hydraulic tools!