Looking for a good compact tractor

[Reagen]

I'm looking for a compact tractor for 11 acres. 5 of those acres have a lot of dead trees we are looking to remove. We have goats and are looking to get more animals, and will need a tractor that can handle those. We also would like to be able to lift and pull a good amount. Any recommendations?

 

[coobie]

New or used?Hilly or flat ground?What horse power 25,40,60,100?What size loads will you be lifting?

 

[jeff9366]

What is your location?

 

[Doughknob]

What is your location?

on the internet????

 

[jeff9366]

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other specification.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Bare tractor weight is a fundamental tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise which cuts through specification clutter. I have a column for cost per pound.

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped or uneven ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 4" to 8" wider rear axle substantially decreases tractor rollover potential.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.




I'm looking for a compact tractor for 11 acres. 5 of those acres have a lot of dead trees we are looking to remove.

If your land is flat and fairly smooth, and you can identify yourself as prudent, you could get by with a tractor of 2,700 to 2,900 pounds bare tractor weight and less than 26-horsepower, avoiding complex Tier IV emission paraphernalia.

If your land is sloped or rough or if you have "0" experience operating a tractor you will need an increment heavier, wider tractor of 3,600 pounds to 4,100 pounds bare tractor weight to be safe, especially in the beginning.


We would like to be able to lift and pull a good amount.

Tractors are made to PULL.

Loader lift capacity will be in proportion to bare tractor weight.
A 2,700 to 2,900 pound bare weight tractor can lift approximately 1,200 pounds with the Loader.
A 3,600 to 4,100 pound bare weight tractor can lift approximately 2,300 pounds with the Loader.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after eight years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

 

[Rob41]

Wow Jeff, I've noticed you always have good sound advice for us new guys and it's very much appreciated.

 

[jeff9366]

Thank you.

I have owned three tractors. The first a 1,900 pound subcompact "learner" without a Loader. The second a 2,200 pound tractor-loader package. The third, my 3,500 pound Kubota L3560, is tractor nirvana in my north Florida conditions. Had I early read a thread philosophizing on tractor weight it would have stimulated tractor weight research and I would have omitted purchase of tractor #2, which proved too light for my applications. I purchased tractor #2 seduced by the allure of increased horsepower.

 

[etpm]

Thank you.

I have owned three tractors. The first a 1,900 pound subcompact "learner" without a Loader. The second a 2,200 pound tractor-loader package. The third, my 3,500 pound Kubota L3560, is tractor nirvana in my north Florida conditions. Had I early read a thread philosophizing on tractor weight it would have stimulated tractor weight research and I would have omitted purchase of tractor #2, which proved too light for my applications. I purchased tractor #2 seduced by the allure of increased horsepower.

Your comments about weight are spot on. I recently bought a Yanmar YM2310 to replace my Ford 9N. Though I love the Yanmar I noticed right away how much less traction and hence pulling power it has compared to the old 9N, even though the Yanmar has slightly more horsepower. I will be adding 320 pounds of steel weight to the back wheels and some lead too hanging below the differential. Thanks for your informative post.
Eric

 

[jeff9366]

I will be adding some lead too hanging below the differential.

"Loading" the tractor's rear tires with liquid will increase traction in a cost effective way.

Adding wheel weights will also increase traction, though iron weights are much more costly.

MORE ON WHEEL/TIRE BALLAST:

OrangeTractorTalks » Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast

Consider routinely carrying around a Three Point Hitch implement as FEL counterbalance and additional wheel ballast if you need yet more traction. A considerable amount of the implement weight is transferred to the tractor wheels, both front and rear, through the Three Point Hitch.

Before your next tractor purchase consider this: Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

 

[SmallChange]

I have a New Holland WM25 with loader that I like very much. The only thing I think is wrong with it is the exhaust is down low so I'm always breathing it in (I hope to adapt a vertical stack soon). Larger tractors in this line have a high exhaust from the factory. I chose this brand because the local dealer treated me well, whereas local Kubota and Deere dealers did not.

For 11 acres you may want something a bit bigger than 25 HP.

You may also want a cab.

Just my thoughts. Happy shopping to you!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

 

[etpm]

"Loading" the tractor's rear tires with liquid will increase traction in a cost effective way.

Adding wheel weights will also increase traction, though iron weights are much more costly.

MORE ON WHEEL/TIRE BALLAST:

OrangeTractorTalks » Comparing Types of Liquid Tire Ballast

Consider routinely carrying around a Three Point Hitch implement as FEL counterbalance and additional wheel ballast if you need yet more traction. A considerable amount of the implement weight is transferred to the tractor wheels, both front and rear, through the Three Point Hitch.

Before your next tractor purchase consider this: Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

I'm using steel because I can get scrap plate for 40 cents per pound and I have the equipment and skill to make discs from rectangular plate. Right now I use my box blade for ballast but would rather not have stuff sticking out of the back of the tractor sometimes.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[Rdrcr]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

I can understand your assessment if mowing is your primary concern on a well manicured lawn.
However, for most all other tractor work, weight is essential. And, many of us have made the mistake of buying too small/light.

Mike

 

[finn1]

I have a New Holland WM25 with loader that I like very much. The only thing I think is wrong with it is the exhaust is down low so I'm always breathing it in (I hope to adapt a vertical stack soon). Larger tractors in this line have a high exhaust from the factory. I chose this brand because the local dealer treated me well, whereas local Kubota and Deere dealers did not.

For 11 acres you may want something a bit bigger than 25 HP.

You may also want a cab.

Just my thoughts. Happy shopping to you!

A tractor with a DPF won’t have the emissions problems and exhaust odor associated with low powered tractors.

 

[rScotty]

I'm looking for a compact tractor for 11 acres. 5 of those acres have a lot of dead trees we are looking to remove. We have goats and are looking to get more animals, and will need a tractor that can handle those. We also would like to be able to lift and pull a good amount. Any recommendations?

TO THE OP:
You are going to get replies all over the place...confusing, isn't it?

You may want to put the detailed ones aside. To really help with your project we have to know more about it.

Where approximently are you located? What is the ground like? Clay? Gravel? Sand? Do you plan to do any farming or mostly land re-shaping?

Do you normally buy new or used? Own tools? Do you tend to repair your own cars or build your own barn? Or do you hire those kinds of jobs out?

What kind of budget are you looking at?

So if you will give us some information as to who you are, what you want to do, and what the ground is like there, then after a few rounds of questions the folks here on TBN can do abetter job of narrowing down some tractor choices for you.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[mo1]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

Reading what you wrote, tractor weight actually was one of your most important criteria as you sought a tractor "as light as possible" to avoid tearing up your lawn. Tractor weight, either how little or how much, really is probably the most important factor. I submit that turning radius and general maneuverability is #2 for a utility machine, I bet that you would probably agree if you use your machine for mowing.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Reading what you wrote, tractor weight actually was one of your most important criteria as you sought a tractor "as light as possible" to avoid tearing up your lawn. Tractor weight, either how little or how much, really is probably the most important factor. I submit that turning radius and general maneuverability is #2 for a utility machine, I bet that you would probably agree if you use your machine for mowing.

I guess I should have worded that differently. But I have to agree with your take on my wording.

I just started using it again for mowing. So now my wife or son mows with the F-935 and I mow with the 4410. 3 acres of lawn with lots of trees to mow around in about an hour and 15. Two 6' mowers is over kill for that amount of lawn but it's sure nice to be done quick.

 

[SmallChange]

A tractor with a DPF won’t have the emissions problems and exhaust odor associated with low powered tractors.

The tractor whose exhaust I don't like does have a DPF. I never see black clouds, but the exhaust is still irritating. Could be an issue for me just because I have chronic bronchitis.

 

[finn1]

I'm for sure in a minority but I don't agree that tractor weight is the most important criteria at all. You can always make a light tractor heaver but you cannot make a heavy tractor lighter. For mowing my lawn I want my tractor as light as possible. If I need extra weight for stability or traction I can always pick up my rear three point hitch weights. If I need more weight up front I have two different sets of front weights depending on the job. The two most important considerations are: How well the dealer takes care of you and is able to supply parts, and how comfortable and intuitive the tractor is to operate. For example I will never buy a treadle pedal HST tractor. Others find them comfortable but I don't. Also very high on the list is reliability.

Focusing solely on weight, as in more is better, is a rather simplistic or one dimensional approach to selecting a tractor. When I bought my ck 4010 Kioti a few years ago, I narrowed my choices to that tractor and a larger framed NX series, after looking at Kioti, Deere, and Kubota.

Deere was out, as they wanted too much money and didn’t want to deal. Take it or leave it approach to selling.

Kubota was out due to the treadle HST control, and a dealer in precarious financial position, reportedly from divorce proceedings.

The CK was a lighter tractor than the NX, but much of my lakefront property had questionable drainage, so I figured the smaller tractor had an advantage. The front snowblower was a little narrower, but the tractor was a little smaller and easier to maneuver near the deck and house, and was a better fit in the garage/shop. The blower and subframe, being slightly smaller, were a better fit for covered summer storage.

Lift capacity and bucket reach were not as good, but still adequate. I can load my small dump truck with no issues other than the limitations of the smaller bucket... it takes a few more scoops to fill the bed with sand.

Biggest downside from my choice of a smaller tractor is the tighter cab and the floor isn’t flat, making the cab a little more restrictive. Additional weight would help when using the box blade, but, again, that’s limited use for me. Snow blowing was my primary objective.

 

[Jchonline]

I'm looking for a compact tractor for 11 acres. 5 of those acres have a lot of dead trees we are looking to remove. We have goats and are looking to get more animals, and will need a tractor that can handle those. We also would like to be able to lift and pull a good amount. Any recommendations?

Tractors are not the best machine (not really close) for clearing wooded areas. Rent a large excavator or pay someone to clear it. After, the tractor is great for maintaining.