Low water pressure questions ( well system )

[meburdick]

Does this also apply to tanks with no bladder ? I have no Schraeder ( spl ? ) valve anywhere on tank to add air . 2 lbs less means if my cut in pressure is 30 psi I should have 28 psi in empty tank ?

It does apply to some tanks - depends on whether there's a valve or not. The link you were reading before has some info about checking the air in the tank and whether or not your system uses a bleeder orifice system to keep the air volume correct.

 

[meburdick]

Not knowing slow from fast, this is the best I can tell you right . When opening a spigot at well house 41 sec passes before pump kicks on . With spigot still on pump cuts off after 1 min. ( less time if spigot is closed ) . Can 't say about inside faucet yet as I need my helper home to assist with faucet as I monitor pump .

Trouble fo me and bladder tanks is I have egg water and as I understand it bladders don 't help to remove egg smell like bladderless do by mixing air with water .

Are your faucets low-flow? If so, they are most likely 1.5 GPM flow rate (bathroom faucets are a great example of this). Open a faucet and let the pump kick on. Close the faucet and wait until it stops. At this point, if you can open a 1.5 GPM faucet and the pump kicks in at 40 seconds, your draw-down is ONE GALLON. That sounds awfully low, even for a bladderless tank. What's the total volume of your tank?

 

[sailorman]

Are your faucets low-flow? If so, they are most likely 1.5 GPM flow rate (bathroom faucets are a great example of this). Open a faucet and let the pump kick on. Close the faucet and wait until it stops. At this point, if you can open a 1.5 GPM faucet and the pump kicks in at 40 seconds, your draw-down is ONE GALLON. That sounds awfully low, even for a bladderless tank. What's the total volume of your tank?

I 'll have to wait for assistant for faucet test . Wish I could tell ya the tank volume, but it is not printed on it anywhere and I lost paper manuals for most stuff from Katrina .

 

[sailorman]

Looks like I 'm almost at the point I need to call in a professional . Sure hope I can find a good one and not the kind that just fixes one thing after another to trouble shoot the problem . I do understand I may have multiple issue given the age of the house and system .

I 'll gladly read any other post till I pull the professional trigger . But, SWMBO is gettin ' very impatient .

 

[meburdick]

I 'll have to wait for assistant for faucet test . Wish I could tell ya the tank volume, but it is not printed on it anywhere and I lost paper manuals for most stuff from Katrina .

Many times, a model number will give a good indication of volume (assuming that's still there). You could also compare it to something whose size you know... like a 5 gallon pail, for example... to get an idea.

 

[sailorman]

Many times, a model number will give a good indication of volume (assuming that's still there). You could also compare it to something whose size you know... like a 5 gallon pail, for example... to get an idea.

I 've pretty well looked at the tank for markings but can find nothing except reference to safe operating pressure . Tomorrow I will try and dust off my math skills on cylinder volume and come up with an aprox . Figure . Right now my brain is very cooked from thinkin ' on it all day .

 

[Domush]

The OP has a problem with pressure. Pressure is directly related to volume.

No, it isn't. It is related to volume over time, not sheer amount available. The guy can have a direct line to an aquifer and still have little pressure. The amount of water available has just about zero to do with pressure, unless it is running dry or from cavitation, in which case it would be glaringly obvious, as it would spew air with bits of water.

Do you even have a well? The local watering hole where you heard this crap doesn't count.

How is understanding the flow rate capability of the well derailing the conversation? If your MPG in your car was bad and you tried increasing pressure in the fuel rails to no avail, would it not be desirable to understand that your fuel pump couldn't supply the fuel you needed at any pressure?

Nice try, you directly disputed that assertion, saying the amount of gas in the tank directly affects the pumping speed of the pump, which is BS. Unless you run out of gas (which, again, would be glaringly obvious), the amount of gas in the tank is entirely irrelevant to the fuel rail pressure. But it's good to see you now agree with my original statement, even though you can't bring yourself to admit it.

Proving inaccurate commentary "just to feel like you contributed" is not helping the OP.

Took the words right out of my mouth.

 

[sailorman]

Back from my thinkin ' break and have some questions not so much related to solving my pressure problem although ya 'lls' answers might . I would like to remove the metal cut off valve that is leakin' from the system and install a pvc valve in the pvc 1 " piping which would not be hard to do. I would place that valve as close to the house wall as possible after the tank. Not wanting to do any soldering, I 'm wondering how it might be done with those Shark bit connectors I 've seen and if its possible.

 

[meburdick]

Back from my thinkin ' break and have some questions not so much related to solving my pressure problem although ya 'lls' answers might . I would like to remove the metal cut off valve that is leakin' from the system and install a pvc valve in the pvc 1 " piping which would not be hard to do. I would place that valve as close to the house wall as possible after the tank. Not wanting to do any soldering, I 'm wondering how it might be done with those Shark bit connectors I 've seen and if its possible.

I can tell you from experience that the Shark Bite connectors hold up well when used on 3/4" copper. I had to remove a section of hot water line about 2' long because a leak had started in a soldered joint. I used a standard pipe cutter on either side of the leaking area, soldered up a new piece to go in (the leak was in a 45 degree bend), and installed it with those connectors.

It held terrific for about six months and then I noticed that the "next" 45 elbow had started to leak. I got out the special tool to remove the connectors, popped off the repaired piece, soldered in some more copper, cut out a little further down, and popped it right back in with the same connectors.

No leaking, no issues.

Now... What do they have for PVC? I don't know.

 

[sailorman]

Now... What do they have for PVC? I don't know.

Yep that 's the question I 've got to research . I think I read somewhere they can handle most types of pipe interchangeably . I could cut out valve and put on shark bit coupler on copper pipe. Put in a short piece of 3/4 pvc on other end of coupler . Put a reducer in the 1" and use the wobble room of pcv to glue the 3/4 into the 1" .

Boy when I read that it sounds confusing .