Low water pressure questions ( well system )

[sailorman]

I think EarPlug has a good suggestion in getting a pressure gauge. If you can locate a couple of different points in the line where you could attach it, you might be able to see a pressure difference occurring between two points and being at least part of the issue.

Only place I can think of I might find inside is at my clothes washer ( at end of water line run ) . I have hot and cold water spigots there that the washer hose hook to like a garden hose . Next would be what kind of pressure gauge can be adapted to screw on like a garden hose . I can not think of one other place in the house I could do that . All of the rest of the places are the small 1/4 " ( ? ) supply lines to faucets and toilets . Showers are 1/2 " pipe with cut off valve and no apparent way to attach anything . Pretty sure of this as I was the one that installed most of the plumping years ago .

My biggest fear is that the 3/4 " major lines inside of house have become clogged . Almost insurmountable fix task .

 

[meburdick]

Only place I can think of I might find inside is at my clothes washer ( at end of water line run ) . I have hot and cold water spigots there that the washer hose hook to like a garden hose . Next would be what kind of pressure gauge can be adapted to screw on like a garden hose . I can not think of one other place in the house I could do that . All of the rest of the places are the small 1/4 " ( ? ) supply lines to faucets and toilets . Showers are 1/2 " pipe with cut off valve and no apparent way to attach anything . Pretty sure of this as I was the one that installed most of the plumping years ago .

My biggest fear is that the 3/4 " major lines inside of house have become clogged . Almost insurmountable fix task .

I would *guess* that it's more likely that any issues with clogging would be more likely at elbows and around joints (like shut-off valves). Buildup inside the straight runs of plumbing should be less likely. If you are able to locate pressure differences from one point in a line to another, that would go a long way in determining "where to cut".

If you *do* have to take out a piece of the plumbing and replace it, it isn't usually too bad as long as you have access to the pipe. If you have to tear your walls apart to get to them, that's a whole different story. Finding the issue is task one. Once you get that accomplished, you'll have a better idea of what options might be available to correct it.

Do you have a pressure gauge on the line where it comes out of the tank? And, have you verified that it's accurate?

 

[dmccarty]

What does the pressure gauge do when water is running in the house? Does the pressure gradually drop or does it suddenly drop?

The recovery rate of the well and the pump flow rate are different. Our well recovers at 15 GPM. Best I can tell our pump is 5 GPM. 15 GPM for a well in our area is danged good. The recovery rate and other well data is on a plate on the side of the well pipe. You might be able to see if your well has a plate, but from the photos, it looks like it might be hard to find, if it exists at all.

Since flow is your problem, what happens if you let the water flow at the well? Does the water flow gradually drop as the pressure drops in the tank? We had our bladder pressure tank fail a year or so ago and I wonder if the tank is the problem. The symptoms are different though.

Can you open a faucet nearest the water supply line to the house? If the flow is reduced at that point, compared to the flow at the well, that would be a clue. Compare that flow to flow at other parts of the house as well.

Also you might want to check the aerators and filters on your faucets. We have high mineral content which can build up on the aerators and filters. I don't think that is your problem but our previous kitchen faucet filter would clog up with minerals every 2-4 weeks affecting water flow. It was a Moen faucet and we had other problems with it. Moen gave us a replacement faucet for a few dollars, and so far, it has not clogged up. The filter looks like the mesh is a bit larger.

Later,
Dan

 

[sailorman]

Here is a good starting point for learning how a non-bladder tank works: Cycle Stop Valves, Inc.

There are more moving parts with a non-badder tank

A good read ! If I 'm understanding it correctly there are mechanical parts in a bladderless tank that could over the years break down or even corrode to nothing .

 

[sailorman]

Do you have a pressure gauge on the line where it comes out of the tank? And, have you verified that it's accurate?

The pressure gauge is located in the side of the tank . It 's readings match the 30/50 switch I have .

 

[meburdick]

The pressure gauge is located in the side of the tank . It 's readings match the 30/50 switch I have .

The different switches are often simply set to different values. You don't always need to replace a 30/50 switch to go to 40/60, for example... You simply adjust the cut-in and cut-out switches based on pressure reading from a known-good gauge. The fact that the gauge matches the switch is only "slightly" useful at this point. It isn't necessarily bad info, but it isn't verified either. Seems like it would be at least close and that's good.

One of the things that's important too is that you have to have the tank pre-charged with the proper amount of air. If not, you won't get the right sort of pressure capacity. If there's far too little air in the tank, you have a very small volume of air that can be compressed by adding water to the tank. That translates directly to a very low amount of what is called "draw-down" (the amount of water you can use from your tank before the pump will come on again). With low draw-down comes short cycling of the pump (on for less than two minutes to fill the tank then off, then back on again after drawing only a gallon or two from the tank - maybe a little more).

You set the charge amount for your tank by shutting the pump breaker off, opening a tap, and allowing all of the water to drain from the tank - you may have to do this *at* the tank if your air level is significantly low. Once the tank is empty, you add air until there's about 2 lbs of pressure LESS than your cut-in setting. At that point, you turn the breaker back on.

Have you reset the pressure pre-charge in your tank?

 

[sailorman]

What does the pressure gauge do when water is running in the house? Does the pressure gradually drop or does it suddenly drop?

The recovery rate of the well and the pump flow rate are different. Our well recovers at 15 GPM. Best I can tell our pump is 5 GPM. 15 GPM for a well in our area is danged good. The recovery rate and other well data is on a plate on the side of the well pipe. You might be able to see if your well has a plate, but from the photos, it looks like it might be hard to find, if it exists at all.

Since flow is your problem, what happens if you let the water flow at the well? Does the water flow gradually drop as the pressure drops in the tank? We had our bladder pressure tank fail a year or so ago and I wonder if the tank is the problem. The symptoms are different though.

Can you open a faucet nearest the water supply line to the house? If the flow is reduced at that point, compared to the flow at the well, that would be a clue. Compare that flow to flow at other parts of the house as well.

Also you might want to check the aerators and filters on your faucets. We have high mineral content which can build up on the aerators and filters. I don't think that is your problem but our previous kitchen faucet filter would clog up with minerals every 2-4 weeks affecting water flow. It was a Moen faucet and we had other problems with it. Moen gave us a replacement faucet for a few dollars, and so far, it has not clogged up. The filter looks like the mesh is a bit larger.

Later,
Dan

Not knowing slow from fast, this is the best I can tell you right . When opening a spigot at well house 41 sec passes before pump kicks on . With spigot still on pump cuts off after 1 min. ( less time if spigot is closed ) . Can 't say about inside faucet yet as I need my helper home to assist with faucet as I monitor pump .

Trouble fo me and bladder tanks is I have egg water and as I understand it bladders don 't help to remove egg smell like bladderless do by mixing air with water .

 

[sdkubota]

There are many potential issues or causes that could be the problem...I believe hiring a good plumber would be worth the money and maybe save you from replacing items that don't need to be replaced. Ask around for someone that is reasonable and maybe you can trade services? Also, get your water tested...based on your picture I would say your well is less then 28 ft in depth and prone to contamination.

 

[sailorman]

You set the charge amount for your tank by shutting the pump breaker off, opening a tap, and allowing all of the water to drain from the tank - you may have to do this *at* the tank if your air level is significantly low. Once the tank is empty, you add air until there's about 2 lbs of pressure LESS than your cut-in setting. At that point, you turn the breaker back on.

Have you reset the pressure pre-charge in your tank?

Does this also apply to tanks with no bladder ? I have no Schraeder ( spl ? ) valve anywhere on tank to add air . 2 lbs less means if my cut in pressure is 30 psi I should have 28 psi in empty tank ?

 

[sailorman]

Also, get your water tested...based on your picture I would say your well is less then 28 ft in depth and prone to contamination.

Very well could be lol as the well was dug many years ago and paid for by dear old mom who just wanted to buy her son something . I was young then and didn 't pay much attention to important stuff . Mis-spent youth I was