MF1533 SyncroShuttle has no PTO power

[frighten102]

New owner of a used MF1533L, year unknown, 599 hours.
Engine starts easy and runs smooth but it has no power in the rear-end but Front End Loader works fine.
With nothing attached on the back, RPM set to 540-mark, turning PTO on (and the lever either already in 540 or starting in Neutral then moving to 540), the PTO doesn't turn. The PTO shaft does turn freely by hand when in Neutral.

Also, still nothing attached and at 540, moving the 3-point raise/lower lever does not move the 3-point at all.

Fluid showing middle of the sight glass but I have no info on last change, etc.

Looking all over for info (forums and videos). Any info or guidance shared is appreciated.
Thanks

 

[rScotty]

Does it shift and drive?

 

[RayIN]

Which of the 3 transmissions do you have?
Is this a manual PTO engage lever or electronic?
Either way, you should shift the PTO into gear before throttling-up to 540 RPM PTO engine speed. It's much easier on equipment and tractor.
If it's electronic engagement, it might have a safety feature to prevent damaging the PTO clutch at high engine speed.
Try shifting the PTO into gear at engine idle speed with main clutch pedal fully-depressed, then slowly let off clutch

 

[jfsawatzky]

Which of the 3 transmissions do you have?
Is this a manual PTO engage lever or electronic?
Either way, you should shift the PTO into gear before throttling-up to 540 RPM PTO engine speed. It's much easier on equipment and tractor.
If it's electronic engagement, it might have a safety feature to prevent damaging the PTO clutch at high engine speed.
Try shifting the PTO into gear at engine idle speed with main clutch pedal fully-depressed, then slowly let off clutch

I agree… before engaging the pto throttle down to idle, engage the pto then throttle back up

 

[frighten102]

Update:
Re-tested as suggested: with RPM at idle, I engaged PTO lever to 540, turned on PTO switch and saw no movement then nor all the way up to RPM at 540-mark.
Re-tried 3-point raise/lower, no change.

I confirmed it drives in all 4 gears in both low and high range.

Looking closer at the sight glass, I found it's a residue, not actual fluid - meaning the fluid isn't currently that high. Suspecting low fluid may be the issue, and planning to change it anyway (since last change unknown), I drained it all (~8 gallons). The fluid is a milky off-white color. I've seen motor oil with water and this didn't look quite like that but I can't rule it out. Honestly, I don't know if that's what 'normal' looks like. I guess I will when I buy the replacement fluid.

Side question: any tips how to clean that sight glass w/o disassembling that whole side of the rear-end?

Thanks

 

[5030]

My only comment is, if you can turn the PTO stub shaft with the engine off and the PTO lever not engaged, the PTO brake is shot.

 

[frighten102]

My only comment is, if you can turn the PTO stub shaft with the engine off and the PTO lever not engaged, the PTO brake is shot.

Thanks.
Have any links or more info on diagnosing and/or repairing that?

 

[Dmacleo]

My only comment is, if you can turn the PTO stub shaft with the engine off and the PTO lever not engaged, the PTO brake is shot.

you sure it has one?
1532 I use does not have one.

 

[5030]

Most modern units do. Most ancient one's don't and I have no clue about yours anyway. Just stating something that pertains to more modern units.

 

[DarkBlack]

Also, still nothing attached and at 540, moving the 3-point raise/lower lever does not move the 3-point at all.

Is the 3PH all the way down? You know it’s a single acting cylinder , and won’t move if it’s all the way up, without external force?
If it won’t move from a lowered position, I’d guess, you should find the cause of that, and you’ll likely have the cause of the PTO issue as well

 

[frighten102]

Probably an important thing I didn't mention: this is a SyncroShuttle model.

 

[frighten102]

Someone put in mocha latte instead of hydraulic fluid.

 

[frighten102]

Apparently mocha latte will leave a stain on the sight glass.
Besides draining all that fluid, is there a way to flush out the system (which might hopefully clean the glass)?

 

[frighten102]

About the 3PH, I've highlighted in these two images (one is straight back view, other is from the side) showing the what I think are the raise/lower arms.

 

[ptsg]

Looks like your 3 pt is already fully raised, so it can't really go any higher. This tells me the valve that controls the speed the 3 pt drops is fully closed. It's usually a knob below the seat.

This knob only adjust the speed the 3 pt hitch lowers, but if fully closed, it won't let the 3 pt lower but will still let it rise at full speed, unless it's already at max height like it is now.

 

[frighten102]

Seeing that fluid raises a couple of other Q's. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the old stuff was contaminated.

Assuming water was the cause (anyone have other explanation?), any tips on finding the source? I've seen no (downward) leaks. Could there be a spot above allowing water to seep in? How to test that? For car air-conditioning there's a trick to use air to pressurize the system and listen for leaks - could that work here too?

I don't want to ruin the >$400 in new fluid I just ordered. I'm replacing the filter too. Any advice on "rinsing" out the tank before adding the new stuff? I've heard diesel is good for that but I'd like to hear more agree before going that route.

 

[frighten102]

Looks like your 3 pt is already fully raised, so it can't really go any higher. This tells me the valve that controls the speed the 3 pt drops is fully closed. It's usually a knob below the seat.

This knob only adjust the speed the 3 pt hitch lowers, but if fully closed, it won't let the 3 pt lower but will still let it rise at full speed, unless it's already at max height like it is now.

Great point - reminds me something I forgot to add. I did confirm that knob was completely 'open' / 'out' / towards the rabbit (not the turtle / lock)

 

[frighten102]

Looks like your 3 pt is already fully raised, so it can't really go any higher. This tells me the valve that controls the speed the 3 pt drops is fully closed. It's usually a knob below the seat.

This knob only adjust the speed the 3 pt hitch lowers, but if fully closed, it won't let the 3 pt lower but will still let it rise at full speed, unless it's already at max height like it is now.

Would it be gravity or hydraulics to make it lower? I mean, with the FEL raised, if I turn off the engine and move the joystick, that releases the pressure and gravity takes over. Does the 3PH lower work the same? If so, shouldn't my 3PH lower (when eng off) too? Maybe the lack of weight on the 3PH is why gravity isn't affecting it.

 

[ptsg]

Would it be gravity or hydraulics to make it lower? I mean, with the FEL raised, if I turn off the engine and move the joystick, that releases the pressure and gravity takes over. Does the 3PH lower work the same? If so, shouldn't my 3PH lower (when eng off) too? Maybe the lack of weight on the 3PH is why gravity isn't affecting it.

The 3 pt hitch is power up and gravity down. If it's not coming down with the lever in the lower position, it might need a bit of weight to get it going.

 

[thclimer]

About the 3PH, I've highlighted in these two images (one is straight back view, other is from the side) showing the what I think are the raise/lower arms.

That sure looks raised to me, if the arms would raise any further they would hit the back of the seat. I think your next option is to apply some weight to one or both arms trying to lower them.