Miller Dialarc

[stihlman]

Believe it or not, my partner and I buy and restore stick welders, primarily Dialarc and Idealarc machines. We blow them out with all the sheet metal off then use a pressure washer and mean green to clean them up. They look like new with the years of grime off. We let them set for several days prior to power up. Never had a problem

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

My Miller jumpers check out like that diagram, set for 200 volts. But why does it have a 200 volt setting when my house and garage has 220 incoming volts? Is 200 and 230 volts for another country maybe?

I'll try to find that online manual for JH... siries later on, be a good rainy day search. You've been great help thanks :thumbsup:

No problem, just put the jumpers on for 230 volts instead.

The service at my place is 247 volts, but further down the line at other houses it would be less.

I put my jumpers at 230 volts and just know that the settings list on my door for my millermatic 210 will actually be a little hotter than listed.

Miller even makes a note of that on my door chart.

 

[Oldpath05]

Believe it or not, my partner and I buy and restore stick welders, primarily Dialarc and Idealarc machines. We blow them out with all the sheet metal off then use a pressure washer and mean green to clean them up. They look like new with the years of grime off. We let them set for several days prior to power up. Never had a problem

Really, so if mine breaks down you would know how to fix it? You sell them after there cleaned out?
I just used compressed air to blow out the dust, the dust probably wouldn't of bothered any but I had the side panels off, I did have one scare tho, after blowing the dust out, I put the panels back on, flipped the switch on and it tripped the breaker, reset the breaker and hit the switch again and it started, ran some rods, turned it on and off several times and it started, must of been a fluke.

 

[stihlman]

They are very simple welders. We have never found one that we couldn't fix. Basically we clean then, check and clean all connections and powder coat the sheet metal. We even have some custom diamond tread hoods we put on some. Like this:

 

[Oldpath05]

Wow, that is a nice rebuild job, it sure does looks new, what's the selling price on something like that?

 

[Oldpath05]

No problem, just put the jumpers on for 230 volts instead.

The service at my place is 247 volts, but further down the line at other houses it would be less.

I put my jumpers at 230 volts and just know that the settings list on my door for my millermatic 210 will actually be a little hotter than listed.

Miller even makes a note of that on my door chart.

View attachment 513143

Last night after reading your post I was wondering why set the jumpers at the 230 when I have 220 volt entrance service, so when I got home tonight I took my multimeter and started checking some outlets, they all seem be to around 120-121 volts and for some reason I always thought they was 110 volts, so if I add 110to 110 that equals 220 volts, but now if I add 120 to 120, that makes 240. So now it makes sense to set the jumpers at 230 volts, after I did that I tried out the welder again on the 250 amps AC setting and it seems like the AC buzzing has a smoother buzz. Now the only puzzle I have is what why where did I get the 110 and 220 volt formula from.

 

[Oldpath05]

This is the first test run of the Miller Dialarc, truck springs makes pretty good scrap steel to test on. The last couple passes was in the 140/310 AC setting, dial at 60 with 3/16 6011. I took the springs out of the vise and the following night, some separation started, probably if done with 70 rod it would of stayed together.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

Last night after reading your post I was wondering why set the jumpers at the 230 when I have 220 volt entrance service, so when I got home tonight I took my multimeter and started checking some outlets, they all seem be to around 120-121 volts and for some reason I always thought they was 110 volts, so if I add 110to 110 that equals 220 volts, but now if I add 120 to 120, that makes 240. So now it makes sense to set the jumpers at 230 volts, after I did that I tried out the welder again on the 250 amps AC setting and it seems like the AC buzzing has a smoother buzz. Now the only puzzle I have is what why where did I get the 110 and 220 volt formula from.

From what I've been told, the U.S. started increasing the voltage around the 1950's and that 110/220 is just the old way of saying it that has lingered.

Here is a brief summary: North American Voltage

Other references will go into greater detail.

 

[Oldpath05]

Ok then you did two things, you verified that I wasn't gone totally senile/crazy yet and you've shed some light on my age. I thought I remembered that 110 volt was the standard out input/output for outlets. That was a good short somewhat understandable link. >>>

("110Volt: Outdated and typically no longer supplied by utilities.

115Volt: Outdated and typically no longer supplied by utilities. However, 115 volts nominal may be referred to by equipment design standards as this is the Nominal Utilization Voltage as defined by ANSI C84.1.

120Volt: 120 volts is the common lower voltage supplied by US and Canadian utilities. It is provided by the utility as 120 volts ±5%.")

 

[yomax4]

A lot of the schools in the mid west still are wired for 208V. So 208,220,230,240 should all run on the same hookup for USA made products. Some European machines are too fussy so they need to be switched to the exact voltage. I know some ESAB plasma cutters will not run on 208V unless they were ordered for 208v. The other one is the same 110,115,120v. No idea if the voltages actually increased or if only the numbers did.