MODIFY BRUSH HOG SOME MORE

[3RRL]

Thanks guys, you guys crack me up.
Since deviating from it's original dedicated use, any ideas or suggestions would very helpful for it's multi-purpose use.
I have to keep within certain guide lines for the mounting system to the other implements since the basic unit is all welded up already. But there is no reason I couldn't change it it a little to make it better or more universal to mount.

What other implements could use I the wheels on?
Box Blade
Landscape Rake
Rear Blade
Many of you have stuff I don't, so what else.

How about any more uses for it thinking out of the box. How about a wheeled harrow of some sort?
And maybe not necessarily tractor implements?
For example, how about like a pallet jack? I realize would need some other stuff to make that happen, but these wheels that raise up like this, what else would be a use for Quick Attach Wheels that raise up? I could make a separate power source (hydraulic mule) and front wheels that slip under. Not only that, but the big rotary cutter wheels also pin on and off, so I could replace them with smaller casters etc.

What I'll do is finish it up and paint it. I'll drill the holes for the universal mounting pins first and then post some photos of it. That might stimulate some more ideas such as where the best place to mount it on the other implements would be (height and aft) and what else it could be used for. This could be a big deal.

Keep the ideas coming guys. I like the kick stand and receiver idea a lot. I might make the rails or receivers to show what the base mount will be like, since it needs to fit the wheel frame. But I might not do that yet in case someone comes up with another idea for the base.

 

[Mith]

Rob, you ought to send this in to FarmShow magazine. Between you and Larry they could probably fill a whole issue with interesting projects

 

[3RRL]

Thank you Mith.
It's been a fun ride on TBN so far.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Rob,

Wow, I just caught up after being away from this thread, all great work by you and Larry! And patrick G as best-supporting heckler....errr.....I mean "cheerleader" was quite fun!

To your question, well first to your deviation: I think using this for gauge wheels is a great idea. Can't argue with multiple usage.
Now the question you had, what other implements?

I have been staring at the KK tiller since I uncrated it. Tiller depth is set manually with nuts and bolts placed in indexed holes to set depth. Of course, tillers are heavy and they vibrate a lot, thus, needing a very heavy duty means, if they were to be depth-adjusted hydraulically.

That's my implement vote: Hydraulically depth-adjustable tiller.

I think your Tailwheel lifting device would be up to the challenge from a strength perspective...but it would most likely require a proprietary mounting bracket assembly for each brand/size of tiller?

My simplistic idea had centered around dual cylinders, one on each side of the tiller, connected from a hard point, near the top of the tiller, down to the depth adjustable skid-plate. I guess having the tailwheels sinking in the freshly tilled earth may be a problem?

Wouldn't it be great to till several inches deep, operate a valve, lower the depth setting a few more inches, and go back over what you had just tilled? without ever leaving the seat and without ever grabbing a socket wrench?

Wait, wait for it..... a fully hydraulic depth adjustable tiller could be used to level the land for bush-hogging, thus negating the need for your tailwheel assembly altogether!!! dang-it.

Again, Great Work! nice project.

 

[patrick_g]

Mike, As I explained previously, you can use a properly built brush hog in land leveling mode and not need the tiller.

Pat

 

[3RRL]

Skunk,
I don't have a tiller so now I have to get one. There's a lot of stuff I still want to get once I move up to the property.
Pat,
I have already used your technique of leveling land too many times. Works great but scares the crap out of me when I'm not expecting it.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Mike, As I explained previously, you can use a properly built brush hog in land leveling mode and not need the tiller.

Pat

Pat,

I think we are looking at customized bush-hog blades with "scarifiers" on the bottom, or maybe the carbide teeth from a trencher.

Looking forward to your prototype!

Of course, it will need a Vac-unit to suck all the dirt and dust as it's cutting!

-John-

 

[SkunkWerX]

Skunk,
I don't have a tiller so now I have to get one. There's a lot of stuff I still want to get once I move up to the property.
Pat,
I have already used your technique of leveling land too many times. Works great but scares the crap out of me when I'm not expecting it.

Rob,

I'm going to take a look at the tiller this weekend, and get some measurements.
The tiller is probably going to need the cylinders mounted each side.

I can't think of any other applications for rear implements, beyond what you mentioned, but there must be some more?

 

[3RRL]

Ok, after considering several suggestions, I decided to draw the receiver base that accepts the Quick Connect Gauge Wheels assembly.

It can be welded or bolted to each implement. Since the implements vary in size and function, each will have a separate base. This is to get the wheels to the ground and to get the proper amount of adjustment for each implement. The way it attaches to each implement has to vary a little also, so they might end up unique for that implement, but where it accepts the wheel assembly is all the same. So the receiver base design has to be simple and inexpensive.
Here is the concept for the Rotary Cutter.



And for the Box Blade.



You can see they are a little different the way they have to attach to the implement.
The receiver base will be made of 2 bars (dark blue) that fit inside the tubing of the wheel assembly. On one end, there will be a hook or slot that accepts the wall of the tubing. the other end, closer to the wheels has a hole for a 1" diameter hitch pin. So the gauge wheels slide on top of the receiver base until they butt up to the end of the slot, then the holes should line up allowing a large pin to fasten it.

The hook or slot won't let it tilt up, and the pin won't let it get out of the hook. It can't go sideways because the wheel frame is like an upside down channel "U" shape. It's a simple locking device.

What do you think so far?

 

[Grrrr]

I think that drawing and plan looks great.

Your Box Blade really is becoming the ultimate version of one

You should send a picture of it to the manufacturer. See what they think of it

The only thing I can see is that if you have the wheel behind the BB, you are not going to be able to get a perfectly smooth finish because the wheels will leave small ruts. It won't be a problem if you just use them for 'roughing in' and then take them off to finish off.

I was thinking of other implements you could use it on and one that came to mind was a subsoiler. They can be really hard to get to work at a constant depth if you tractor doesn't have draught control and even then it's hard on the tractor. You could set up a subsoiler with these wheels behind it and then change the depth very easily

Kind of like a smaller version of this with the wheels at the back

 

[3RRL]

Jake,
Thanks for the great input and subsoiler photo. I also appreciate the compliment on my box blade modification.
I have been looking into getting some kind of plow or subsoiler or something besides my boxblade rippers for my food plot anyway. That is a great idea for the Quick Hitch Gauge wheels.

Question about the boxblade gauge wheels.
How much travel should I need. In other words, how much below the cutting edge of the box should the wheels go? They are adjustable, don't forget, so they can go completely up out of the way when not in use. I've drawn them so they go 5" below right now when max down.... or another way to put it is the box is lifted up 5" by the gauge wheels. I presume that is more than enough, but I don't know for sure?
Thanks,

 

[MJPetersen]

Your Box Blade really is becoming the ultimate version of one
You should send a picture of it to the manufacturer. See what they think of it

The greater question would be if they even recognize their baby. They would not even know it as theirs!!

Mike

PS. I would think that 5 inches would be more than adequate. If you needed more than that just pick up the whole thing with the 3pt. (that is if the front of the tractor will stay on the ground then. )

 

[Grrrr]

I had forgotten that you could lift it completely up out of the working postition wy hydraulics.

I think 5" would be fine too, can't think why you would need more than that with a BB.

 

[SkunkWerX]

Rob,

I gotta love the Quick Connect multi-purpose mod to your wheels!

With that improvement, all anyone would need to do would be install the receiver piece on their implement of choice. Chaninging from implement to implement should be child's play!

3 Thumbs UP!!! (anyone got a thumb I can borrow?)

 

[3RRL]

Great news then guys.
That's what I'll shoot for the boxblade then...5 inches. I had it originally designed for the rotary cutter. Therefore on that mount, I can get from zero to 12" cut height. It makes more sense to have a little more travel on the rotary cutter than the boxblade.
Thanks,

 

[john_bud]

Rob,

The height question is going to need input on the soil condition from you. The box will be (guessing?) 1250 pounds with all of your add ons. The pressure on the wheels will sink them into the ground. Much more if it is on a later pass, so your 5" design may only net you 1" or less on soft soils. On hard pack, it may net 4.5". Only your soil dresser knows for sure.

jb

 

[3RRL]

Rob,

The height question is going to need input on the soil condition from you. The box will be (guessing?) 1250 pounds with all of your add ons. The pressure on the wheels will sink them into the ground. Much more if it is on a later pass, so your 5" design may only net you 1" or less on soft soils. On hard pack, it may net 4.5". Only your soil dresser knows for sure.

jb

Hmmm....
Dang, you are right. I didn't think of that at all! Thanks for bringing that up John, it would have been a bummer not taking that into consideration. For some reason I pictured myself using it on harder surfaces...duh. I'm sure the wheels will sink down into sand or soft soil with all that weight.

Well, I can mount them lower for a little more travel, since I have to do a "dog leg" (drop down) receiver base for the boxblade anyway. The top of the box is taller than the top of the rotary cutter. So the dog leg has to drop down 3 or 4 more inches than I figured.
Great input John,
Thanks.

 

[MJPetersen]

Maybe you could enlighten me, but I cannot think of a situation that you would need more clearance. If you need more clearance than can be gained by hyd lowering the wheels, just pick it up with the 3pt. (If your tractor can of course. ) Why would you run around with it even 3 inches off the ground? To knock the tops off the gopher mounds?

If you dogleg it lower, you will be putting it down in the way of your fine dozer blade, as the mount will remain even without the wheels themselves. I have seen pics when the dirt is boiling up to the top of the back side of the blade. I think that if mounted lower it will interfere with the work that you do.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

Mike

 

[patrick_g]

What do you think so far?

About the soft terrain considerations. Can't you change the wheels/tires to go for a larger footprint to compensate?

Pat

 

[3RRL]

Mike,
I have been worried about the very thing you brought up.
That is the receiver base mounted to the boxblade getting in the way if I make it welded on. In order for these gauge wheels to work on it, the have to be mounted with a dog leg hanging down the back of the boxblade or they will not touch the ground, if I need more down travel, I would make the dog leg longer. But I don't want anything permanent to interfere with back dozing, since I am the King of back dozing with the boxblade. I done so much bull dozing in reverse I'm starting to look like a Halibut.

Anyway, my mount for it will have to be another pin on type. It pins onto the boxblade and also onto the Quick Attach Wheels. That way I can take it off when not using the gauge wheels. Problem is how to attach the receiver mount to the boxblade. I'm working on that.

Pat, yeah I could change over the wheels for a bigger print too, but then I'd need to get other wheels. I want to use the same Quick attach wheel system for everything... at least that's what I'm attempting to do.
I'll draw up a couple of ideas.