Monitor Style Pole Barn in Progress

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

This is a view from the second floor deck.

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

This is a shot of the cantelevered 2 bys that support the second floor deck. You can see the deck in the right side of the picture from the underneath.

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

This is an inside view of the second floor loft.

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

This is a view of the first floor roof looking out the second floor window.

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

These are the double hung doors that my 'BIL' and I built on Sunday this week.

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

This is the inside look at the double hung doors.

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

OK, one final picture. This is the side view where the man door will be. If you look just behind the near tree, that is where it will be. The question for TBN'rs is, how close to the ground should I cut back that 2x10 PT skirting board when installing the prehung door? I am thinking about a 6 inch pour someday (but not for a few years, probably). Maybe I could get away with a 4 inch floor, but shouldn't it be thicker near the edges? I don't mind stepping over the board for now, I just dont want to have the door too high after I pour the floor. Can any pro builders out there help?

Thanks

johnday · Nov 30, 2004

Paul; How much room do you have between the corner post and the first one along the side under your eaves? Also, how big of a service door do you want to put there? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

PaulT · Nov 30, 2004

The opening for the service door is a little small - 32 inches framed. But that is because the door I already have from a previous house remodel is 30 wide. I will have to live with those dimensions. What I'm not sure of is how high off the ground the 30 inch door should be.

scout180 · Nov 30, 2004

Paul, Have you thought about putting a ridge extension outside the loft - could be like an old barn's hay trolley that you could put a pulley or block-and-tackle on for lifting stuff to the loft? Old barns had a drop-down door fit into the end gable for access....

Dave

TOMDUALLY · Dec 1, 2004

Paul, be careful showing pictures and plans of that loft to Eddywalker, he will end up with a two story container barn/apartment /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
good work it looks really nice.

johnday · Dec 1, 2004

Paul; First, figure out where the top of your future floor will be. Then take a circularsaw and make a horizontal cut on your skirt board. And then, use a reciprocating saw to make the vertical cuts. I dont think I'd remove any more than 3 3/4" though, that would leave you 5 1/2", the width of a 2X6 that would act as support for part of the bottom of the door frame. Then when you pour the floor, just place a piece of felt paper under the door frame to isolate the concrete from the wood on the frame. Never have untreated wood in contact with concrete, it tends to migrate moisture to the wood and rots it out. I don't know the codes in your area, they may require a ratwall around the perimeter of your floor. If thats the case, you'd be better off hiring some kids to dig that out now before you hang your siding. That way is much easier since you'll have elbow room on both sides instead of battling the inside of your siding when trying to dig, and also won't splatter concrete on the inside walls when pouring. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

PaulT · Dec 1, 2004

Dave,

Are you talking about a ridge beam that extends out over the doors for lifting heavy things into the loft with a block and tackle? Maybe something like this? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Great Minds...

willydillard · Dec 8, 2004

Hey Paul,
Really nice barn! I've been wanting to build one like it. Got a couple of questions for you.
Looks like you framed your second story on top of the deck just like you would a pier and beam house.... without running your posts all the way up to the top plate. Is that right?
Are you using 1x pine for your siding? It really looks good, like the barns they used to build.... rustic. Are you going to "bat" the cracks with more 1x? Do you have a sawmill closeby?
Thanks for the great pictures. You have a fine looking structure!

PaulT · Dec 12, 2004

Willy,

The second story is a stick-built room, just like you figured out. I spanned 16 feet from the glulam headers with 2x12s, then glued and screwed 3/4 tounge/groove plywood flooring. It was pretty easy to sway that structure back and forth, and pretty scary, too. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Even after I had the 2x6 walls up, and tied together with 16 inch OC rafters, it still swayed in a strong wind. Once I got the roof sheetmetal screwed in it stiffened up quite a bit. Then I added the 1x hemlock rough-cut siding and now it is solid as a rock.

Yes, I do plan to bat the gaps between the 1x boards. As for mills, they are a dime a dozen around here. I bought my rough cut from an outfit about 30 miles away that pretty much supplies all of the pole barn materials for a 50 mile radius. If I had larger, mature trees on my property, I could have a portable mill come in and cut my wood for quite a savings, but I don't have the forested land for it.

Good luck with your project, and feel free to ask as many questions as you want.