My Garage/Shop Heater Install

[dragoneggs]

Did you ever ask Reznor about this?

Not yet... on my to do list today.

 

[Peter 315]

You try turning the thermostat off shutting off the power wait then turn power on and turn temp up and see if that works

 

[BukitCase]

Mark, how long (if any) does it run AFTER the ignitor quits, before it shuts off?
Too bad we're not closer; still got my "go" bag, probably woulda had it running an hour or two after you called... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Never dreamed this thread would be so long. Sorry guys.

Steve, the flame extinguishes immediately after the igniter quits. I'm convinced the problem is that it doesn't detect the flame... because:

1. The igniter continues for the full 16sec regardless of flame present
2. The Yellow LED on the circuit board never lights
3. Gas pressure at the inlet and outlet are well within spec... purged the system again and didn't blow myself up.

All connections seem good. Worried the circuit board is faulty unless flame sensor is bad.

Gonna pull and inspect the flame sensor and reinstall.

 

[BukitCase]

If you look at the flame rod BEFORE trying to clean it (usually not necessary, if so a gray scotchbrite pad) you should see a darkened section of the rod; this is where the flame actually TOUCHES the rod. If that's not there (it should be by now, but not overly obvious) then there's something REALLY wrong (like a loose piece of metal deflecting the flame, or ???

If you have the flame rod out (and NOT shorted out against something) an inspection mirror should show you the flame that would've been hitting the rod - in most cases the flame should be mostly blue(ish) with a few yellow tips (yellow may NOT be there, newer regs want lean burn and yellow is unburned carbon)

You still haven't said whether you have a DMM you think might work, sooner or later that test is gonna get done (whether by you or a $150/hr tech) - let me know if my description a few pages back needs more detail.

Don't worry about a drawn-out thread, I'm a taurus with nearly 75 years practice bein' stubborn; we're done when YOU say we are ... Steve

 

[ultrarunner]

Everything I have is old to ancient so not up to date and then only when I have to be.

That said I know you will solve the issue and it will be more nugget of knowledge gained from TBN

 

[dragoneggs]

I got heat!!!

 

[Peter 315]

And what did you do to fix it?

 

[BukitCase]

From the manual (linked earlier) -

"This appliance does not have a pilot. It is equipped with an ignition device which automatically lights the burner. Do not try to light the burner by hand."

This is "I don't wanna tell you" speak for most likely a piezo element like you find in self-lighting propane torches - more of the "green" movement, doesn't waste gas keeping a pilot going all the time... Steve

Woah, way to sneak that in when I wuz tryin' to show off :laughing:

+ 10, "enquiring minds wanna KNOW"...

 

[dragoneggs]

And what did you do to fix it?

Yeah that was a bit of a tease... if you know me, you know I won't abandon you all now. Just wanted to see who was paying attention! :laughing:

 

[BukitCase]

LEAVING NOW...

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay went back out to the main tank. Made sure my cheap DMM was zero'd and laying flat. Backed the gas down, hooked up the DMM and cranked it to 12.95. The regulator on the tank says '9 - 13' range. Fired it up and it stayed lit. Heated up the shop to 62deg in short order. Heat shut off and fan continued for a while and shut off. I then 'cranked' the thermo to 63deg. It fired again, fan came on (set at auto) and it performed.

Noticed that the yellow LED is now on but blinking. Should be steady. Manual says slow blinking yellow light means "weak flame (current below 1.0 microamps +/- 50%)". Not sure of remedy here but things are working. Going to monitor this more.

Also now I think I had better check the manifold pressure now that it is working, as the manual said it should not exceed 10 w.c.

 

[dragoneggs]

More details... the tank outlet pressure drops 1 inH20 while burner on. Going out now in a T-shirt to bask. Hate to shut her down to remove the DMM from the tank regulator but want to check the manifold pressure. Cross your fingers this wasn't a one-time event!

 

[dragoneggs]

Checked the manifold pressure and it is dialed in! 10.0. Noticing the humidity is dropping significantly. Exactly what I was hoping! Now just have to program the thermostat, restock the mini fridge, and make room for a recliner.

Actually, stay tuned for another shop project... a sink and hot running water!

Hey Ron... wanna buy your old propane tank back? . Just kidding... Don't need to power my stupid little Mr. Heater anymore!

 

[BukitCase]

Cool; in my world, "DMM" means Digital MULTI Meter (the one I've been asking about) - a weak pilot usually means either too much or too LITTLE flame impinging on the flame rod (assuming the flame rod is NOT bad) -

Next thing I would do is re-read my flame rod test paragraph, and (if you actually HAVE a Digital MULTI-meter) set the meter up for DC ONLY, MANUAL range (at least 100 volts), carefully ground the negative lead to chassis, clip the positive lead to the flame rod wire, light the heater, let it run, check the DC volts - again, should have at least 20 VDC. That might STILL give you a blinking flame led, it's close to borderline.

Next, I would start lowering gas pressure SLOWLY, while WATCHING the DC volts - if it gets LESS, go the opposite direction on pressure. You should find a "sweet spot" that way. If not, you might need to see if you can tweak the actual POSITION of the flame rod - that gets trickier AND more PAINFUL, unless you kill ALL POWER to the unit THEN tweak a bit and re-try.

BTW, my "voltage method" isn't taught in any instrumentation school I'm aware of, just something I learned thru working on several hundred gas fired devices. Beats having to carry a micro-ammeter around WITHOUT damaging it (most industrial devices have a little mini-phone plug on flame detectors for connecting a micro-ammeter, but there are also standard terminals for each burner if you're sly)

Anyway, you might get away with just running it, but it sounds like it may be a bit flaky til you look further... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

"Don't need to power my stupid little Mr. Heater anymore!"

same here, got one of those that will NEVER get used indoors again - saving it for those really obnoxious repairs that happen outside @ less than 45 degrees while wallowing in mud under a backhoe - nuthin' I could do about humidity in those cases anyway... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Cool; in my world, "DMM" means Digital MULTI Meter (the one I've been asking about) - a weak pilot usually means either too much or too LITTLE flame impinging on the flame rod (assuming the flame rod is NOT bad) -

Oops... yes, I adopted it to mean Digital Mano Meter. . My bad.

 

[dragoneggs]

Next thing I would do is re-read my flame rod test paragraph, and (if you actually HAVE a Digital MULTI-meter) set the meter up for DC ONLY, MANUAL range (at least 100 volts), carefully ground the negative lead to chassis, clip the positive lead to the flame rod wire, light the heater, let it run, check the DC volts - again, should have at least 20 VDC. That might STILL give you a blinking flame led, it's close to borderline.

I think I can do at least that diagnostic check. I do have a nice proper DMM as well as a couple of not so nice ones. For tonight.. I am gonna let it run... and bask in the 'sun'.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Checked the manifold pressure and it is dialed in! 10.0. Noticing the humidity is dropping significantly. Exactly what I was hoping! Now just have to program the thermostat, restock the mini fridge, and make room for a recliner.

Actually, stay tuned for another shop project... a sink and hot running water!

Hey Ron... wanna buy your old propane tank back? . Just kidding... Don't need to power my stupid little Mr. Heater anymore!

View attachment 648744

I now want to get rid of the other one I have. You should have bought it, it was the one with the liquid valve to fill small tanks from. I don't have room for mush else around here. If the rain would stop I want to get those implements off the trailer and put most up for sale. I will be in a bargaining mood. I will try and sell the other tank then also. What else do you need?

Ron

 

[dragoneggs]

Status report... quarantine situation looking better. I can better practice social distancing with my wife.

Pumped up the shop temp to see how humidity would respond. A balmy 69degF and 45% RH inside. 40degF and 84% RH outside reading from my PWS (Personal Weather Station). This should solve my tool moisture and rust issues by drying the air while heating it. My Mr. Heater dumped a bunch of moisture in the air and I couldn't get below about 66% RH. Was getting a lot of condensation especially inside tool chests and cabinets.



Oh and the yellow LED is solid on... so the weak flame seems to have corrected itself (and it didn't require a blue pill)!

Now just have to settle on an away temp setting. Thinking 50degF min and bring it up when present.

And wow... when I turn on my Jet Air Filtration unit my shop is warmed up quickly! I think I did this right.



The heater is quiet but blows a lot of air. Glad I put it in my far corner. Thermostat is at the opposite corner where I spend most of my time. Happy camper!