My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #121  
I've never seen or heard of this before, so I might be way off here. Are you filling the entire area inside the block walls with rock? If so, what are you going to do for a floor for the house? What is the advantage to the rock over building up a compacted dirt pad?
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #122  
I've never seen or heard of this before, so I might be way off here. Are you filling the entire area inside the block walls with rock? If so, what are you going to do for a floor for the house? What is the advantage to the rock over building up a compacted dirt pad?

Having done this a few times here, I'd say the advantage of rock, when you use the proper size (generally #5 or smaller), is that it's self compacting and you can quickly build up a level base for the floor.

At least in my part of VA, it's important to get the foundation walls dug down to sit on footers below the frost line and below the various types of soil and clay here. On a sloped lot, you'd need to dig down to a certain level/layer regardless of whether you left the grade alone or you took the trouble to level the site ahead of time. So you'll still require taller walls on the downhill side, etc, etc. Therefore, why bother leveling the site when it doesn't really change much? Just put in the walls and then backfill the inside with gravel and go.

Now, if a pure slab foundation was appropriate with no block walls, then it would be a completely different story. Be curious to hear why Woodchuck took this approach with block walls and interior backfill. In fact, if the walls are on footers and capable of supporting the framing above, why didn't you go with a crawl-space instead?

Our home has both elements -- main house is crawl with block walls on footers. Garage and workshop are slab poured over gravel base within block walls. Center of that section has a thickened area within the slab with rebar, to support a load bearing wall that carries weight from the second floor above.

Woodchuck, you probably already know this, but make sure you put in a good swale about 4-6' from the house and slope away from walls, so that the french drains aren't the local low spot for surface water. I like to think of french drains next to a foundation as the last line of defense, not a primary line of defense! I have seen people put in french drains next to their walls on a completely flat property, and to me all that does is invite the water to flow down next to the foundation.

The other thing I did on our home was to put in shallow french drains under all the roof drip lines, so we could avoid having gutters. They are basically ground gutters, since I lined the bottom with plastic sheet before the septic paper and gravel went down. So far they are working great and do a nice job carrying rainwater away from the foundation. I have a healthy slope on my property so it was pretty easy to make all these ground gutters run downhill to move the rainwater away from the home. This wouldn't be so easy with a flat property.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#123  
Yes, the rock compacts quickly and very solidly. Disturbed soil, even when packed down can still have some give. I would have preferred digging deeper but I had cut into the hill already to the point that I need a 5 foot retaining wall behind the house, and I was in solid rock by that point. There is no crawlspace. This will be cement slab with radiant heated floor.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #124  
Looks good WCD! Never seen a perimeter drain on a slab house before but like you said, "do it once, do it right":thumbsup:
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#125  
Last week, they began putting in the insulation on the walls and adding fill to the foundation to prepare for the cement. They will be putting insulation on the bottom as well, and then I will be installing the pex tubing for the heat.

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My project for this weekend was to level the pad for the well to be drilled.

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This is the spot that we marked for the well to go in. The driller said I needed to flatten the area so that he could get his rig up there.

while I worked on the well site, my bride was moving rock to build the retaining wall that will be behind the house. And she kept the burn barrel going to get rid of some small debris and to warm up a bit

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I managed to get the well site flattened and I think they should have no problem getting the rig up there to drill. I moved the spot for the well a bit since I am building a barn below it. I wanted to make sure that the barn was far enough from the well in the event that I ever need to treat the barn for termites.
My wife says I overdo everything and probably didn't need to make the pad as large as I did. I will be restoring the hill when it is done.
We had a nice steak dinner buy the burn barrel last night, and this morning I started finishing up on the pad. I'm looking forward to having a functioning well. It will be one step closer to getting into our house.

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   / My Industrial Cabin Build #126  
Good luck with the well. After reading all that was out there about the HGTV Dream House that was built a few years ago, and how they drilled multiple wells and could never get water for that house after they built it, I'm always nervous about somebody drilling a well after they have started construction.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#127  
I suppose that it is possible to not be able to get water. Everyone else around here has a well. I have artesian springs on the property and a spring / stream fed pond. I am thinking that chances of success are high.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #128  
One small hose with a screen on the end running into a cistern. Overflow running back into the stream should get you all the water you need.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#129  
One small hose with a screen on the end running into a cistern. Overflow running back into the stream should get you all the water you need.

That would probably work but I'm not sure if its legal and I'm sure id have to come up with a way to deal with microbes. But it would definately be cheaper.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #130  
I suppose that it is possible to not be able to get water. Everyone else around here has a well. I have artesian springs on the property and a spring / stream fed pond. I am thinking that chances of success are high.

In the arid western US it's common to have to file an application for any kind of well with the state engineer's office. And getting it approved isn't a foregone conclusion either. Even though we have quite a bit of surface water - including a large creek and a pond - on the property here, the permits and paperwork for a household well took a bit of work.

We treat our well water for minerals or microbes. Doing so costs near nothing and makes for peace of mind and body. I run ours through a series of filters, then to an ultra-violet purifier. There's also a reverse osmosis water faucet in the kitchen for ice cubes & tea. It was good water to start, but making it even better is easy.

An existing spring is yet another animal altogether. If you have a good spring, it may be worth the effort to have it documented with your state water board. In some states there are still special laws in the landowner's favor as regards springs which originate on your land. I'm guessing that those laws that date back to an earlier time when land could be had for the homesteading, but good drinking water was a very valuable commodity.
good luck,
rScotty
 

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