Need Help with quick hitch/snowblower Kubota BX2230

[bp fick]

Yeah, let it ride up. You gotta have that plate to plate. Square and flush.

Also, if the old model is like the new one, the wedges can be screwed onto the T-handles a couple of ways. Only ONE way is correct. Mine came wrong from the dealership.

They had them friction positioned on the incline of the wedge. I spun them off the T-handles and reversed. Now the square butt of the wedge is firm and square against the backside of my frame. I didn't design the system, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that my dealership setup guy got em wrong.

 

[RobiBX2230]

Ya...........kinda sorta. It is at an angle, right????????????? It can slide up a bit and still be in contact with the frame. Step on the lift arm and lift/pull on the top cylinder mount and it should slide right into place. Hold it and tighten the clamp.

This hitch is a very simple device. If it is not bent it should roll into place.

I assume that these mounting issues are why the change was made to the current hitches.

I never had any issues with mine. I find the new style more of a hassel with 2 pins and 2 T bolts whereas the old model had just 1 T bolt.

Oh..........and fill out your profile.

I'll try that, by the way, I've jumped on the front of the thing to see if I can weasle it down and all it does is make the tractor bounce because the QH is in contact with the front axle, maybe getting the angle up a little I can get it flush... I agree, this shouldn't be rocket science and I've tried this about 100 times now and can't seem to get it right, I'm starting to think it's twisted or torqued somehow...

 

[bp fick]

If it is any consolation, I think the new version is also easily screwed up and not installed correctly. It might take some doing, but I can see how things could get bent or torqued because things MUST be flush and square. Otherwise, there is no way to dissipate the shock. Basic mechanics. This is how I figured out the wedge position, basic mechanics. Now, I'm curious enough to go read my manual...

 

[kevinj]

I'll try that, by the way, I've jumped on the front of the thing to see if I can weasle it down and all it does is make the tractor bounce because the QH is in contact with the front axle, maybe getting the angle up a little I can get it flush... I agree, this shouldn't be rocket science and I've tried this about 100 times now and can't seem to get it right, I'm starting to think it's twisted or torqued somehow...

If the QH is hitting the front X, I would question if you have the proper hitch or if it is bent. It does run close to everything as the tractor is very compact. It needs a bit of room so the front X can move up & down.

Back to if it is bent. The pics look like it has been tweaked. These things are made from heavy steel and can't see how it could be bent but any thing is possible.

 

[kevinj]

Yeah, let it ride up. You gotta have that plate to plate. Square and flush.

Also, if the old model is like the new one, the wedges can be screwed onto the T-handles a couple of ways. Only ONE way is correct. Mine came wrong from the dealership.

They had them friction positioned on the incline of the wedge. I spun them off the T-handles and reversed. Now the square butt of the wedge is firm and square against the backside of my frame. I didn't design the system, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that my dealership setup guy got em wrong.

I am not sure I got this..... The angle side goes against the tractor frame and the square side against the hitch frame so it lifts the hitch up against the pins. I do know mine were wrong from the dealer.

 

[bp fick]

Here is how I have mine now. I consulted the manual. It is no help at all.
I have flush mounting of the sub frame. Frame to frame. Strong.. Square to the world. I plow, so I stress this way more than blowing does.

Yes, the wedges CAN be installed either way, but I much prefer what is pictured. To me, it is far superior to just having the wedge merely pulled into tension against the top of the tractor frame. This positioning, I believe, is a far superior mechanical advantage. YMMV

 

[kevinj]

Here is how I have mine now. I consulted the manual. It is no help at all.
I have flush mounting of the sub frame. Frame to frame. Strong.. Square to the world. I plow, so I stress this way more than blowing does.

Yes, the wedges CAN be installed either way, but I much prefer what is pictured. To me, it is far superior to just having the wedge merely pulled into tension against the top of the tractor frame. This positioning, I believe, is a far superior mechanical advantage. YMMV

Rotate them 180° so the thin edge goes over the tractor frame. I do believe that is the best solution and what the manual calls for See page 10 fig 2 clearly shows how the wedge mounts.

Your method clamps it to the tractor frame but leaves it loose below at the pins, the wedge over the frame raises the hitch to remove slop at the pins.

 

[bp fick]

Rotate them 180ｰ so the thin edge goes over the tractor frame. I do believe that is the best solution and what the manual calls for

Your method clamps it to the tractor frame but leaves it loose below at the pins, the wedge over the frame raises the hitch to remove slop at the pins.

We shall have to agree to disagree. It in no way leaves anything loose. It is rock tight. I do not think the inclined plane merely drawn into tension is an ideal system. Frankly, the upper attachment system could use some improved fabrication/modification. I have some ideas to make it better.

 

[bp fick]

Yes, I see the manual cryptically shows the schematic of the position of the wedge. I have tried it in that position. I simply don't have confidence in the locking ability of that positioning. Wear through vibration will eventually groove that wedge/frame mating place. This makes little sense to me. Little wonder the manual calls for re-tightening every day of use. Again, this design can be improved upon.

 

[RobiBX2230]

I just took everything apart and tried it all again, this time with a second set of eyes and hands to help... still the same result, unfortunately the QH can't get any closer to the bumper no matter what I try because the front axle prevents it from being brought any closer... I think I have done all I can do at this point, I have cranked the T bolt as hard as I can and nothing wiggles, I can even pick up the front wheels of the tractor with the snowblower and the hydraulics of the QH and it doesn't move... I think my problem last time is it wiggled a little, just enough to have the PTO shaft slip off (I bought the tractor used and I think the PTO shaft may have been for the BX18, maybe it was already twisted or just a hair too short)... I plan on taking it easy and snowblowing at low RPMs - I think I may opt for a rear blower for next season...

 

[bp fick]

Conflict with the front axle is what blows my mind. Something is just wrong.

Take great care, friend, great care.

 

[RobiBX2230]

Conflict with the front axle is what blows my mind. Something is just wrong.

Take great care, friend, great care.

I agree, blows my mind too, but literally, the QH is up against the hydraulic steering piston and if that wasn't there, the axle is right behind it at the same height.

 

[kevinj]

Yes, I see the manual cryptically shows the schematic of the position of the wedge. I have tried it in that position. I simply don't have confidence in the locking ability of that positioning. Wear through vibration will eventually groove that wedge/frame mating place. This makes little sense to me. Little wonder the manual calls for re-tightening every day of use. Again, this design can be improved upon.

While the design may not be perfect, it is far better than the old design. I have never had mine loosen up. The wedge holds well and the hitch is easy to install. My dealer had the wedge taper up so it would bind in the hitch and never tighten!!!

 

[kevinj]

I just took everything apart and tried it all again, this time with a second set of eyes and hands to help... still the same result, unfortunately the QH can't get any closer to the bumper no matter what I try because the front axle prevents it from being brought any closer... I think I have done all I can do at this point, I have cranked the T bolt as hard as I can and nothing wiggles, I can even pick up the front wheels of the tractor with the snowblower and the hydraulics of the QH and it doesn't move... I think my problem last time is it wiggled a little, just enough to have the PTO shaft slip off (I bought the tractor used and I think the PTO shaft may have been for the BX18, maybe it was already twisted or just a hair too short)... I plan on taking it easy and snowblowing at low RPMs - I think I may opt for a rear blower for next season...

I wonder if the 30 series is supposed to use the new style hitch??????????

Every thing is close under there for sure. Is the hitch narrower than the frame by a couple inches??? if so it may be for a BX1500 which had a different frame.

When I went from the 1500 to the 1850 I had to buy a new hitch as the old would not fit the 50 series.

Your dealer should be able to figure this out.

 

[ChuckinNH]

My first guess is that somehow you got the quick hitch for the slightly larger B series (B2320, etc.) That would explain the extra distance between the bumper, and hitch, and other differences. It could have been marked wrong, or just have been a simple mistake. I would mention that possibility to your dealer, and see what he thinks.

 

[kevinj]

I plan on taking it easy and snowblowing at low RPMs - I think I may opt for a rear blower for next season...

Low RPM is no good.......Get the front hitch problem fixed....the front blower is an awesome tool when you get hooked up right.

 

[kevinj]

I'm not sure I'm going to be much help here, my BX2750 quick hitch was the same as bp fick's and I can't tell from the pictures you posted where the T-bolt is going on your hitch. My old mount made sense, in that it locked at the bottom where the mmm levers went, then the whole system was pulled in tight when the t-bolts were tightened...forcing the wedges to pull up on the whole assembly. In the Spring I would have to loosen the t-bolts and then give them each a light whack with a rubber mallet to break the wedges free.....if any of that makes sense. I'm also having a hard time seeing how yours is supposed to work, but agree that you should not have that space. John

Hey Dyer, how ya been?

Your tractor is an 1800, right?? If so the OP has a hitch for a 1500. Mine was like his and my new one is like yours and BP fick.

It may confirm that he simply has the wrong hitch and driveline. The 1500 frame was a couple inches shorter which would explian his short drive shaft and clearance issues.

 

[bp fick]

I wonder if the 30 series is supposed to use the new style hitch??????????

Every thing is close under there for sure. Is the hitch narrower than the frame by a couple inches??? if so it may be for a BX1500 which had a different frame.

When I went from the 1500 to the 1850 I had to buy a new hitch as the old would not fit the 50 series.

Your dealer should be able to figure this out.

Brilliant!! I gotta believe Kevin is on to something here. Find out, somehow, from someone knowledgeable, if that hitch is for your machine. For sure, the new style would fit properly. It comes nowhere near the front axle.

Perhaps you said, did you get the snowblower separately from the tractor purchase?

 

[bp fick]

While the design may not be perfect, it is far better than the old design. I have never had mine loosen up. The wedge holds well and the hitch is easy to install. My dealer had the wedge taper up so it would bind in the hitch and never tighten!!!

Well, THAT would never work!!! I think you have two viable options here, but that isn't one of them.

 

[kevinj]

Well, THAT would never work!!! I think you have two viable options here, but that isn't one of them.

Since I moved I use the blower on the 3940 with cab, that pig hogs off 72" per pass while I'm nice and warm.

I am adding a pic of the 1500 with blower and the 3940