Need some help with cable controls

[dcyrilc]

I think this is how to adjust to spools to center......

Do you know if the aluminum collars are available in different lengths? As it is now, the brass spool stop is hitting the top of the collar when the valve is in neutral.

 

[dcyrilc]

AKKAMAAN,
The spool which came out is from the motor control valve. It is the one you asked if it moved freely. Does this appear to be a one way (on/off) spool or a two way (forward/off/reverse) spool? Also, what would normally stop it from coming all the way out as it did?

 

[AKKAMAAN]

AKKAMAAN,
The spool which came out is from the motor control valve. It is the one you asked if it moved freely. Does this appear to be a one way (on/off) spool or a two way (forward/off/reverse) spool? Also, what would normally stop it from coming all the way out as it did?

It sure looks like a forward/off/reverse spool with maybe be a forth position locked up.....Those grooves at the end of the spool must be to lock spool in some positions....hard to tell how many and which positions locked up...

Can you tell what hydraulic function echa spool valve represent?

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Do you know if the aluminum collars are available in different lengths? As it is now, the brass spool stop is hitting the top of the collar when the valve is in neutral.

I have been thinking about that brass sleeve and the aluminum collar....maybe the new cable set that previous owner bought did not inclu de the new collars, but indeed the brass sleeve....and they do not match.....then I assume the brass sleve need to be shorter....

I would contact a reseller of that sort of cable kit, and ask what is custom to do when installing....maybe the brass sleves need to be customized....

Did what I showed/said about how to do the adjusting make sense??

 

[dcyrilc]

I have been thinking about that brass sleeve and the aluminum collar....maybe the new cable set that previous owner bought did not inclu de the new collars, but indeed the brass sleeve....and they do not match.....then I assume the brass sleve need to be shorter....

I would contact a reseller of that sort of cable kit, and ask what is custom to do when installing....maybe the brass sleves need to be customized....

Did what I showed/said about how to do the adjusting make sense??

It does. I think what I have been doing will work also once I have the issue between the collar and the brass spool stop resolved. Then fine tune as you described.

 

[dcyrilc]

It sure looks like a forward/off/reverse spool with maybe be a forth position locked up.....Those grooves at the end of the spool must be to lock spool in some positions....hard to tell how many and which positions locked up...

Can you tell what hydraulic function echa spool valve represent?

from left to right: Motor control - Boom up/down (SA cylinder) - Boom in/out - Mower head angle with float detent.

 

[dcyrilc]

It sure looks like a forward/off/reverse spool with maybe be a forth position locked up.....Those grooves at the end of the spool must be to lock spool in some positions....hard to tell how many and which positions locked up...

Can you tell what hydraulic function echa spool valve represent?

Locked up? Not sure what this means.

The three groves at the bottom of the spool are detent positions, but without the detent working properly, I havent been able to determine operation in each detent. I've been hesitant to pull up too hard or far yet. Currently, all the way down is off and pulling up on the spool rotates the mower head so that the lower side is moving toward the front of the tractor and the top side is moving toward the rear of the tractor. In the off position, the spool is the same height as the other valves are when in neutral. It seams as though there should be a lower position from off. I'll probably take it apart again and try to get another ball bearing and see how it works with two (one in each hole). I'll also try to get some pictures of the pieces so that my descriptions hopefully make more sense.

I've never torn open a hydraulic valve before so this is quite the learning experiance. Not having any parts breakdown to show what should even be there makes it a little more challenging yet.

I asked about the operation of the spool because the three detents make it seam like it could have a reverse, but my operators manual only mentions on/off for valve operation. I don't know enough about spool design or operation to make any type of real conclusion.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Locked up? Not sure what this means.

The three groves at the bottom of the spool are detent positions, but without the detent working properly, I havent been able to determine operation in each detent. I've been hesitant to pull up too hard or far yet. Currently, all the way down is off and pulling up on the spool rotates the mower head so that the lower side is moving toward the front of the tractor and the top side is moving toward the rear of the tractor. In the off position, the spool is the same height as the other valves are when in neutral. It seams as though there should be a lower position from off. I'll probably take it apart again and try to get another ball bearing and see how it works with two (one in each hole). I'll also try to get some pictures of the pieces so that my descriptions hopefully make more sense.

I've never torn open a hydraulic valve before so this is quite the learning experiance. Not having any parts breakdown to show what should even be there makes it a little more challenging yet.

I asked about the operation of the spool because the three detents make it seam like it could have a reverse, but my operators manual only mentions on/off for valve operation. I don't know enough about spool design or operation to make any type of real conclusion.

Sorry Cyril!
Locked up=detent....just didnt find the word...swede u know....lol...
I'll look at this for a while....back later

 

[J_J]

dcyrilc ,

You did not mentioned anything about the missing collar on one of the spools. On some valves, one of the spools has to be on or detent for the other spools to work. The valve appears to be a stack valve, and the one section with out spool, may be to combine flow. The valve is probably parallel operation also. I believe the way to set up the cables, is to set the spools to neutral, and connect cable, and adjust the sleeve to remove any slack.

 

[dcyrilc]

OK, I made it up to the Deere dealer after work. They couldn't help much. The factory cables are no longer available and they could find no specs for the origional cables. They did however, give me the name and number for a company which does a lot of custom hydraulics, including manufacturing custom cables. They may have or be able to point me in the right direction to find the collars I need. As they also do hydraulic repair, they may also be able to get me the ball bearing for inside the motor control valve. I'll see if I can get up to see them on Thursday.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day Cyril the motor valve should only detent in one position as this is to prevent you running with any debris flying back at op, i think you will find that if you put another ball in there that it will also make it very tight to operate. Do you have any springs inside the valve/top collar as you will need these to centralize the spool when you have released the lever other than that it should be just adjustment


Jon

 

[dcyrilc]

G'day Cyril the motor valve should only detent in one position as this is to prevent you running with any debris flying back at op, i think you will find that if you put another ball in there that it will also make it very tight to operate. Do you have any springs inside the valve/top collar as you will need these to centralize the spool when you have released the lever other than that it should be just adjustment


Jon

As it is now, I can move the spool with two fingers. I would expect it to feel like when I push the valve on the other end into the float detent. With only one ball bearing, the angled collar just shifts aside and lets the ball bearing move out of the way instead of using the spring to place pressure into the detent with the ball bearing. The detent really isn't doing anything with only the one ball bearing. I'll try to get some pix when I take it back apart in a couple of days.

 

[dcyrilc]

Here are pix of the spool and lower parts. From playing with it and looking closely, there definately should be two ball bearings for the detents. Also, there is a snap ring missing which prevents the spool from comming out of the valve as it did the other day. The motor will only operate one direction as the depth of the lower cap stops the spool from accessing the third detent position.

I'll be trying to replace the missing parts tomorrow as well as finding a solution for the cable attachment. I'll post my success or failure tomorrow night.

 

[dcyrilc]

It just occured to me that I have never posted what I paid for this mower. I picked it up off Craigs list for $3750. Currently, I have no other expense into it except the gas to go pick it up.

The previous owner gave me both the owners and parts manuals (in new condition). In one of the manuals were the receipts for the mower and cables he bought. He paid $4500 for the mower with frozen cables and $682 for the replacement cables which don't work on the mower.

I also forgot to mention that the head parts guy from the Deere dealer called Tuesday morning. He tracked down the part number for Deeres recommended replacement cables and it was the part number for the cables which I have here.

When I bought it I was told that it ended up being too small for him and that was why he was selling it. I'm doing some guessing here, but I suspect that after buying the new cables and finding that they won't fit...he decided to cut his losses and sold it. I'm happy with the deal I got and I know that I am resourseful enough to over come the cable issue. Since the mower tested good without the cables - I have no doubt that I can get it going and got a good deal. The absolute worst case here would be that I might have to have someone machine up the spacers I would need to make it work with these cables.

How's that lathe working Rob? The solar still giving good power to the shop? If I strike out on the cables, I'll be sending you a PM.

 

[dcyrilc]

The motor control valve is repaired. Parts...1@ 1/4" bearing, 1@ 1/2" snap ring. Cost...free. One peice of the puzzle complete.

Haven't found a source for cable parts yet, but I'll get there. This should be the easy part once I find a source.

 

[dcyrilc]

Here are some pix from today. The oil was nasty!!!! I bought 15 gallons of new oil and ordered a new filter ($85 OUCH). The pickup screen was clean and looked good. Looks like new knives won't be a bad idea.

 

[dcyrilc]

OK everyone, here are the pix of the mower. No cable control yet, but we're getting there.

 

[kennyd]

Very cool, thanks a lot for posting!

I kinda thought you where a little older though:thumbsup:

 

[dcyrilc]

Very cool, thanks a lot for posting!

I kinda thought you where a little older though:thumbsup:

That's my 14 year old son. I was behind the camera. You have to look in the reflection to see me. LOL I'm 47 and camera shy.

 

[dcyrilc]

The mower is actually made for a 35 - 50 HP tractor. Mine's 68 HP. It will just fit on the last adjustment of the mower. The nice thing is I don't have any tipping problems. With it all the way out to the side my tractor is still good and stable even without wheel weights or loaded tires. I thought I might have to put the dual wheel on the opposite side for counter weight, but it doesn't look like it will be necessary. Now I just have to get the control cable issue worked out and I can start mowing. Oh yeah, I have one missing zerk to replace also.