IH3444
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,111
New engine for my F-600 Dump Truck
- Thread starter EddieWalker
- Start date
- Views: 33550
Joe1
Platinum Member
Sounds like a real headache with the bolts. From talking to independent RV mechanics, about the 460 (a real rock crusher), Ford used a cheap grade of bolts for the exhaust manifold. The bolts in effect welded themselves into the heads and frequently broke on high mileage engines, particularly RV's that towed vehicles on long grades causing a long period of high engine and exhaust temps.
Is it possible the Napa #8 bolts were mismarked or were from China or some other third world country?
It would have been nice to get some headers, but ya gotta cut off the expense somewhere. You din't mention it, but I assume the carb is OK.
By the way, a great job of documenting the project. Easy to follow and interesting. Thanks.
Is it possible the Napa #8 bolts were mismarked or were from China or some other third world country?
It would have been nice to get some headers, but ya gotta cut off the expense somewhere. You din't mention it, but I assume the carb is OK.
By the way, a great job of documenting the project. Easy to follow and interesting. Thanks.
IH3444
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,111
I'd install the new ones with the lead based antiseize if you can still find it. I have a can I bought new almost 30 years ago, and it's half gone.
ScottAR
Veteran Member
I see Eddie has one of those craftsman "half a case" socket boxes like I do....
**grumble junk grumble grumble**
**grumble junk grumble grumble**
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The engine is just about ready, but the exhaust pipes have turned into a never ending story of there own. Dad took on this part of it and went to the guy who fixed the muffler on the dozer. The muffler guy said it was better to work with what we already had than spend the money on a whole new system. He also felt the muffler and pipes were in good shape. He cut the pipes and welded on some sleeves so we could adjust the length and angle.
The problem is that we just can't get the angle to line up with the direction of the exhaust manifolds. He took it back a few times and we're real close now. We're up to $50 on the exhaust, which includes the sleeves, brackets and his time welding. Not bad considering he could have made ALLOT more by selling us an entire new system.
Tomorrow I'm gonna put on the front of the truck and mount the radiator. Then it's fluids and start up.
IH3444,
Thats' one big dump truck you have there. I can't imagine how you load it??? How tall are the sides?
Your can of lead based anti seeze would sure be nice on my three point hitch. I got some stuff, but it doesn't last very long and I bet some good old fashioned lead would really help!!
Joe1,
I kind of wonder about those bolts. I usually buy most of my auto parts from Napa because I think they have better quality than the other stores. They also have commercial truck and even tractor supplies. The other stores don't. I don't know why I spun the heads off two brand new grade 8 bolts. It's never happend in my life, and I realy didn't think it was possible. I have some serious doubts about them, but not so bad that I'm gonna replace all of them. They are all torqued to the high end of what the manual says, so that's good.
ScottAR,
Yeah, that case bit the dust on me years ago. The sockets are still good, but the case was crap from day one. Just one more reason for my slow, but steady lack of respect for craftsman products. I really can't imagine going to Sears for anything.
Thanks,
Eddie
The problem is that we just can't get the angle to line up with the direction of the exhaust manifolds. He took it back a few times and we're real close now. We're up to $50 on the exhaust, which includes the sleeves, brackets and his time welding. Not bad considering he could have made ALLOT more by selling us an entire new system.
Tomorrow I'm gonna put on the front of the truck and mount the radiator. Then it's fluids and start up.
IH3444,
Thats' one big dump truck you have there. I can't imagine how you load it??? How tall are the sides?
Your can of lead based anti seeze would sure be nice on my three point hitch. I got some stuff, but it doesn't last very long and I bet some good old fashioned lead would really help!!
Joe1,
I kind of wonder about those bolts. I usually buy most of my auto parts from Napa because I think they have better quality than the other stores. They also have commercial truck and even tractor supplies. The other stores don't. I don't know why I spun the heads off two brand new grade 8 bolts. It's never happend in my life, and I realy didn't think it was possible. I have some serious doubts about them, but not so bad that I'm gonna replace all of them. They are all torqued to the high end of what the manual says, so that's good.
ScottAR,
Yeah, that case bit the dust on me years ago. The sockets are still good, but the case was crap from day one. Just one more reason for my slow, but steady lack of respect for craftsman products. I really can't imagine going to Sears for anything.
Thanks,
Eddie
plowking
Gold Member
I wonder if bolts had seated themselves in hole, before head was snug against the manifold. It might be better to install studs and use nuts as you won't be turning threaded part in block to torque it down. I don't know if stainless would be better or available in grade 8. plowking
Renze
Elite Member
plowking said:
Stainless has a nasty tendency to freeze when you over tighten it just a little. i would avoid stainless bolts as much as possible.
Joe1
Platinum Member
You must be glad it's almost over. It's "fun" for us to follow as you progress and solve your multitude of little problems, but probably not as much FUN for you.
At least you'll have a strong, reliable engine....now as long as the rest of the driveline holds up you're good for another 26 years.
For a bit of useless trivia: Ford's original Y-Block was used in trucks and the Lincoln in 1952. Ford and Mercury got one in 1954. Various vehicles used the Y-block (as best as I can determine) until around 1968 when the 292 Y-Block in Fords and Mercury's was replaced by the 260-289 small block. I believe it was gone by 1970. (I said it was useless trivia).
At least you'll have a strong, reliable engine....now as long as the rest of the driveline holds up you're good for another 26 years.
For a bit of useless trivia: Ford's original Y-Block was used in trucks and the Lincoln in 1952. Ford and Mercury got one in 1954. Various vehicles used the Y-block (as best as I can determine) until around 1968 when the 292 Y-Block in Fords and Mercury's was replaced by the 260-289 small block. I believe it was gone by 1970. (I said it was useless trivia).
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The day started out with the exhaust fiasco. Lots of prying, adjusting, cutting and bending, but after awhile it finally came together. The truck now has it's old exhaut pipes and muffler. I never would have believed it would have been this dificult.
I had a helper with the alternator as you can see in the pictures. He lives for this sort of stuff!!!!
Then the rest of it came together real easy.
I had my Dad turn it over for awhile to get oil presure, then on the first try, it fired right up!!!!!!!! I set the timing to top dead center when I put in the distributor, but the timing light showed it at 30 BTDC. I changed it to 6 BTDC and the idle went way down. I adjusted the carb, checked the fluids and figured it was time for a test drive.
The first big mistake jumped out at me when I tried to use the clutch. It didn't work.
Dad had put it together, so my panic alarm was going off in my brain, but after looking it over, he just didn't adjust it. The combination of the milled flywheel and new clutch added up to quite a diference from original.
When I drove it, one of the biggest difference I noticed was how little fuel I gave it to get it to go. It just goes on it's own!!!! It's quiet, smooth and powerful. Rumer has it I have a new engine, it's like having a new truck!!!
The alternator isn't charging and we haven't figured out why. It must be a wire issue, or it could be a bad alternator. Odds tell me it should be fine. It worked before, so it should work now. The wires were removed, so my thinking is it's the wires.
Real soon now,
Eddie
I had a helper with the alternator as you can see in the pictures. He lives for this sort of stuff!!!!
Then the rest of it came together real easy.
I had my Dad turn it over for awhile to get oil presure, then on the first try, it fired right up!!!!!!!! I set the timing to top dead center when I put in the distributor, but the timing light showed it at 30 BTDC. I changed it to 6 BTDC and the idle went way down. I adjusted the carb, checked the fluids and figured it was time for a test drive.
The first big mistake jumped out at me when I tried to use the clutch. It didn't work.
Dad had put it together, so my panic alarm was going off in my brain, but after looking it over, he just didn't adjust it. The combination of the milled flywheel and new clutch added up to quite a diference from original.
When I drove it, one of the biggest difference I noticed was how little fuel I gave it to get it to go. It just goes on it's own!!!! It's quiet, smooth and powerful. Rumer has it I have a new engine, it's like having a new truck!!!
The alternator isn't charging and we haven't figured out why. It must be a wire issue, or it could be a bad alternator. Odds tell me it should be fine. It worked before, so it should work now. The wires were removed, so my thinking is it's the wires.
Real soon now,
Eddie
