New engine for my F-600 Dump Truck

[ScottAR]

I dunno how far out that is... Most Pickup type boosters are about $100 give or take $50. I could check the bendix catalog tomorrow.

Might also check Eggimann. At least you'll know if your getting flim flammed or not.

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks like I can finish off this thread.

The replacement Vacuum Booster came in the other day. It's a simple install, but bleeding the air out of the lines was unlike any other vehicle I've ever done.

First, you do it with the engine off.

The booster has it's own valve for bleeding and you start there first. I had my Dad pump the pedal and I'd bleed it. We went through two bottles of brake fluid to get it all done!!!

Now I have a new engine, an amazing level of power and working brakes!!!

First picture is of the Vacuum Booster installed.

Second picture is of the dump truck in my lake site with a load of dirt.

Third picture is of the dump truck dumping a load of dirt.

Thank you to everyone for you help,
Eddie

 

[CATMAN]

Eddie, Did your overheat problem go away with the fresh rebuild?

 

[George2615]

Great job. New brake booster, clutch, engine rebuild. Still cheaper than another dump truck. You should get another 100K miles use out of that truck now. I'll bet it sure feels good to be completed and have the power back in the engine you were missing. Take a break, you need it.

George

 

[EddieWalker]

Catman,

No heating issues at all. The guage never goes past the halfway mark!!!

George,

The power difference is just amazing. It was gutless before, but geared low enough that I was able to get around my place with it. Now I load it up full with 6 yards and climb up out of the lakesite in second gear!!!!

Fuel consumption is way down, the oil looks as clear and clean as the day it was put in and it fires up every time I go to use it!!! I'm hopefull that it will get me through the next couple of years of work I need it for, than I can sell it for what I have into it. Even if I gave it away, I'd be money ahead with what I've been able to do with it compared to hiring it out, so that's a good thing too.

But to be honest, it will be a happy day to sell it.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks like the engine lasted two years of very limited use. I don't have the numbers, but it's been less then two years and I've only used it off and on since putting in the rebuilt engine. My guess is that it has just a few hundred hours on it at the most.

About three weeks ago, I noticed smoke coming out of the exhaust. It was mostly when I was backing up to dump a load. I realized that this wasn't normal, but didn't know what to do about it and the day was almost done, so I kept going until dark.

The next morning, I checked the oil, and it was very low. This was something new. I had not lost any oil since the rebuild, and it's always remained very clean looking. I just don't drive it enough to dirty up the oil and since I change the oil and filter in the spring time, it's not in there long enough to get dirty either.

I pulled the plugs and did a compression test. They were all right around 130 pounds. The plugs were fouled really bad. Black and sooty looking. The valve cover was also loose and thre was oil coming out of the gasket. I never heard of a valve cover getting loose before, and never both of them. I tightened them down, but didn't take them off or replace the gasket.

I put in new plugs and started it up. It runs strong and wasn't smoking.

I moved several hundred yards of dirt with it last weekend and at the end of the day, it was very low on oil again. I've thought about it all week, but don't have an answer. Today, I filled it up with oil and moved more dirt. By 4pm, it was smoking worse then ever. It smelled like an old outboard, 2cycle boat motor. White smoke was coming out, though not thick, but noticable.

In the morning, I plan to pull the plugs again and see what they look like.

Does anybody have any suggestions? Any miracle ideas?

My thought is to check the compression and see where it's at. With oil in the combustion chamber, I'm probably going to get a false reading, or at least good reading wether I have a worn ring or not. With new pistons, rigns and cylinder walls, it shouldn't be a warn ring anyway. If the ring is cracked, I think I should get a low reading regardless of the oil in there. Does this make sense?

My other thought is that the newly rebuilt heads have something wrong with them.

Either way, it's one or the other. The water is fine, so the block and gaskets are not the problem. I'm burning allot of oil, so it's either the rings or the valves. Does this sound right?

I think I'll have to take off the heads no matter what. I don't know if I'll be able to tell the problem form looking at them or not. Any thoughts? I also think that I can replace the rings on the pistons without pulling the motor. I've done it on my dozer, so I should be able to do it on this. Hopefully.

If I replace the rings, do I need to replace the bearings at such low hours? I probably will, but I'm willing to listen to anybody who tells me that they are fine and to go ahead and reuse them.

To say I'm frustrated would be putting it mildly.

Thanks,
eddie

 

[Eagleview]

It would not just suddenly go like that . Assuming it has not been overheated . I would check the PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation) in the rocker cover to make sure it is clean and free (it must rattle when you shake it near your ear). They can block up with gunk and pressurise the sump and make them use oil . Clean the filler cap and make sure all the vent hoses are clear and not kinked . Broken rings will give you low compression readings but wont usually cause excessive oil consumption as the oil rings are not cast and can't break , they can only wear out and as you have done little with it you can rule that out . Another thing that can happen is that the intake manifold gasket can suck in at one intake port and suck oil in from the valley . Put a vacuum gauge on the brake booster hose or on the manifold somewhere and see what it does . With the grind that the truck cam would have there should be around 21 inches of vacuum and it should be steady . If it fluctuates madly it could have sucked in the gasket on the intake manifold where it mates to the head . The fact that all the plugs are dirty says to me it's the PCV .

 

[SimS]

Eddie;

With the low hours on the motor I was thinking that maybe you have a air filter/housing problem and "sanded" the motor. But the thing I can't figure is the loose valve covers. Maybe Ironhorse is onto something with the PCV. It wouldn't hurt to check. If the motor is using that much oil in one day I would probably do a "wet" compression test and see if the compression jumps up and that would confirm the "sanded" motor theory. Good luck. I'm anxious to see how your latest mechanical adventure turns out.

SimS

 

[Egon]

Eddie; I'd go with the valve seal.

But at my deduction success rate for the past while I'd have trouble telling if it was raining if I was standing outside in a rainstorm!

 

[LoneCowboy]

If you have a Tractor Supply store close by, I would get bolts there. They sell them by the pound, and carry all sizes in regular, grade 5 and grade 8

all made in china and not worth squat
grade 8 made in china == shear bolt