'New' John Deere 2305

   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #21  
Yep, you busted me. I put those videos up there to help whet the chops of anyone thinking of buying a machine. I can't wait till the day when I can wave at the camera from inside the new cab...someday. Those vids don't really show the steep part of my drive, that's the flatter piece. I can usually blow both uphill and downhill on the steep part unless there's more than about ~6" of snow, then I just blow downhill or half width uphill. It's no big deal, you'll get the hang of it on day one.

I wouldn't mind having a wider blower for corners so I don't have to blow what I've driven over. But again, no big deal.

As for getting all the way down to the pavement, I think the blower does an amazing job at that (pic below). If my pavement were perfectly flat, there wouldn't be anything left at all but frost heaves and stone heaves put the kibosh on that. If I blow in the morning, the sun always melts away anything leftover within an hour or two. When I'm done blowing, I'm usually right down to a skin layer. I'm also quite happy with the 30-50 feet my blower can throw snow. It'll shoot it 30 ft in the air easy. It all depends on moisture content, wind, volume, speed, and so on. Funny, sometimes when I blow down by the road I'll shoot it across the street, up high. Once in a while a car will cruise right through the arch. Nifty.

The 3PH installation should be shown in the owners manual. It's so easy a caveman could do it, and the same goes for using it. Play around with it and if you don't understand it in 15 minutes, better to sell the tractor and hire someone.

The lower link arms ought not need to be installed for the mower but since I have the independent lift, I'm not quite sure how the mower connects with the mechanical lift. I doubt it connects to the 3PH lift arms in any way. I'd have to guess that there is linkage under the tractor that is tied into the 3PH system with the mechanical lift. In my case, the mower attaches to two lifting arms below the tractor (shown hanging low in the pic below, woopsee!). I'm sure these are also somehow used in the mechanical lift to raise/lower the deck.

The BH sub frame will not interfere with the MMM. They really did stuff 10lbs of **** into a 5lb bag with this little machine. Incredible, really.

I've seen that skid plate on eBay. I thought he used to mention what it will/will not interfere with but it's been a while. I've been meaning to try my own idea so I haven't bought it. Plus, it only mounts on one side so if it happens to get bent up, you've got more problems. I'm not all that concerned with nothing since I keep the radar on.

See ya, greasy nipples!:laughing:
 

Attachments

  • 2010-01 2305 Snowblowing 004a.jpg
    2010-01 2305 Snowblowing 004a.jpg
    329.7 KB · Views: 697
Last edited:
   / 'New' John Deere 2305
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Ohhh so thats what santa does for the rest of the winter :laughing:

Unfortunately snow blowing at my house is a one direction deal when it comes to the hill. Hopefully that will change with the new 4wd tractor.

Ohh speaking of cabs, check out my original posting on this thread. There is a couple of links that you might find useful. The freemar vs competitor link has links to just about every company that makes a cab for the 2210/2305The jodaleperry.com ROPS cab is probably the best looking (read as: Factory-looking) cab out there. ROPS and Non-ROPS tractor cabs, canopies, and guards for all popular brands - Jodale Perry Corporation

AND MY NAME IS NOT GREASY NIPPLES!!! :mad:
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #23  
Nice cab. Now I have greasy nipples.:D
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I can fix that...

Base cab before options will set you back 4200 bananas.

Now how do you feel?
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #25  
Ya had to go and ruin it for me...:mad:

For that price, I'll have to stick with goggles for snowblowing. I could even have windshield wipers installed on them and still be way under.
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Sorry.

At least for 4200 you get a tractor cab that has built in ROPS so you can remove the Factory ROPS unlike most cabs that are not structural and require the factory ROPS to remain on the tractor.

Maybe you can get some extra money by selling your soul. Some guy sold his soul on ebay for well over $1000 a couple of years ago. Just dont try to sell family members on there. They take it very seriously even when you are just kidding.
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #27  
I can't deny that that fixed ROPS (as opposed to folding) is a PITA sometimes. I'd like to splurge on one of those aftermarket folding one's one of these days when all my bills are paid and my favorite TV evangelist doesn't need any more money. :laughing:

Actually, with regard to the cab, I think I'd rather have a soft one that can be removed for the warm season. I enjoy the fresh air when mowing.

Too bad they don't make transparent Rubbermaid trash cans. One of those upside down would do the trick.
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #28  
I also have the independent lift on my 2305 62d. I think it's great, personally. Have had no problems with it, and I like the way it works.

I did add the diverter valve kit though so I could mow w/ the loader attached in a pinch without having to mess w/ hydraulic line connecting and disconnecting. I will offer this advice - if you haven't installed the diverter valve in a 2305 before, just have the dealer do it. Installing myself was not worth the money I saved. The valve in the wheel well is easy, but making everything line up and getting things tight under the deck was painful.

Even without the diverter, I'd to the independent lift again.
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #29  
Hey diz,

My dealer installed my diverter valve kit on my new 2305 and they put it in all backwards and hacked. I had to remove the whole thing and reinstall it. They ran the hydraulic lines going to/from the valve right up against the pedal linkage. After just a few hours of use, the pedal linkage ripped through the outer jacket of the hydraulic hose and the hydraulic hose ripped the linkage joint apart. The symptoms of my discovering the problem was that the pedals kept getting stiffer and stiffer and stopped naturally returning to the neutral position when I took my foot off of the pedal.

Does your diverter valve work properly? Mine doesn't. The few times I've had the deck on with the bucket, and had the valve set to bucket, the mower deck still jumps around even though there should be no fluid going to it.

I brought the machine in to have it looked at and they said it was just the way the system works, which I don't believe, but I wasn't surprised to hear from them. Better stop right there. :mad::mad::mad:
 
   / 'New' John Deere 2305 #30  
Well that's annoying ensoll. Mine works fine. Assuming everything is set up correctly, I can't see how there could be any cross-flow unless there's a problem in the valve body itself?

It takes more strength than it seems like it should move the plunger to each extreme, are you sure you're opening/closing the valve all the way?
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2015 GMC Arcadia SUV (A50324)
2015 GMC Arcadia...
2005 Big Tex 10PI 16ft. T/A Pipe Top Utility Trailer (A49461)
2005 Big Tex 10PI...
2011 Ram 1500 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A50323)
2011 Ram 1500 4x4...
2025 Swict 84in Bucket Skid Steer Attachment (A50322)
2025 Swict 84in...
4- 6 DRILL COLLARS (A50854)
4- 6 DRILL COLLARS...
2025 CFG Industrial TK35R Mini Track Loader Skid Steer (A50322)
2025 CFG...
 
Top