New L5740HSTC3 loader question

[TripleR]

Drew, I can certainly understand the problem with tow weight, but agree 100% with texasjohn who provided excellent advice when I bought my L5030 which obviously transfers to the L5740. I have fluid in my rear tires and have an 1100 pound box blade or rotary cutter to get the maximum benefit from my tractor; the importance of proper ballast can't be over emphasized.

I put five hooks on my HD bucket; got them at Truck and Tow:TrucknTow - Weld-On Grab Hooks (Pellican Hooks)

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...228972-installing-hooks-front-end-loader.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/186929-using-loader-chains-etc-4.html

 

[texasjohn]

OK...given a bad back...and who doesn't have one...I truly believe you need the quick attach for FEL equipment...yes, I don't use mine every day...but it is completely no problem to change from FEL to hay spike, to forks, to no attachment...and no grease!!

I recommend 3 chain hooks...one in line with lift arms on both sides, and one in center. alternatively, you could have a trailer hitch insert welded to the center and change between trailer ball, hook, or ?? It's surprising how often just one hook is not sufficient to hook up a load.

And, I highly recommend a hydraulic top link....check out numerous threads discussing it...some have a check valve on theirs, some don't...but all agree it is a back saver and step saver. I rigged up plastic pipe levers for mine so I can operate both top link and lift arms from rear of tractor thru cab rear window...makes hooking up implements soooo much easier. Here at TBN we just love to spend other people's money!!

 

[daugen]

One of my bucket list items is learning how to weld, so I'd have to rely on someone else to weld the brackets on, no big deal, and certainly would do it better than I could. Do you normally run the chain through one hook or more than one?
Guess it depends upon the weight. I have to wait and see what kind of clearance I have with the Long Grapple bucket installed; certainly not going to hang anything on those arms for sure...
the hydraulic top link caught my eye too; I ordered the extra third rear hydraulic line, could that work for the hydraulic link? As you can see, I'm really new at this, but have some common sense. Some...
I spent most of my career in insurance, and am very safety conscious, so I tend to belt and suspender things. If one strap works, use two sort of thing. I guess when I bend my first hook I'll know my own limitations pretty quickly.

 

[TripleR]

I took my hooks up and had the dealer weld them, my sons can weld, but for what I paid for my tractor, I was going to get all I could.

Second the hydraulic top link, I got mine with Top and Tilt. MountainviewRanch sells hydraulic top links as well as full kits through fit rite; might check with him if you are looking for aftermarket stuff.

I prefer not to lift from just one hook unless it's light.

 

[daugen]

Drew, I can certainly understand the problem with tow weight, but agree 100% with texasjohn who provided excellent advice when I bought my L5030 which obviously transfers to the L5740. I have fluid in my rear tires and have an 1100 pound box blade or rotary cutter to get the maximum benefit from my tractor; the importance of proper ballast can't be over emphasized.

I bought a four foot box blade for my current tractor, little small for the new one, but have no desire at this point to buy another one, so not enough weight there. There was a great post awhile back about what to put in the ballast box; e.g if you roll the tractor do you want sand, gravel, whatever showering down on you. Granted, that's a terrible worst case, but it sure would be nice to be able to use water in the ballast box, but at seven pounds a gallon, don't think I'd get enough weight, and I'd have to have a lid arrangement of course.

 

[Buppies]

TexasJohn how did you rig the plastic pipe to control levers from outside the cab? I am sort of dense if I can't see pictures. Thanks

 

[texasjohn]

You will never bend a hook.
I like the way you think, I'm kinda the same way:thumbsup:
The 3rd rear hydraulic line is EXACTLY what you need for the hydraulic top link...good planning!!
Multiple chain attachment points are used to insure that the load is both properly secured and balanced for the loader. If you were to use only one hook, either your load swings around under the loader, not good when underway, or you must run the chain twice into the same hook...and the hook is not sufficiently deep to accommodate two links, typically. Grab hooks is what you want, not slip hooks. I have 3 grab hooks and 2 slip hooks....extremely seldom do I use the slip hooks.

Is your bucket a heavy duty one, or light duty...not sure about the Long construction....I have the heavy duty bucket from Kubota and there is no need to reinforce the hook attachment point with it...with a lighter duty bucket, some have bent their bucket, some have reinforced the top where hooks are attached...net, get heavy duty bucket, you will not be sorry.

As regarding limitations, there are two you need to know about.

First, when seeking to lift more weight than the tractor and hydraulics can handle, the relief valve pops and you can lift no further, this is normal, very smooth, no jerks.

Second, your rear tires come off the ground...either because of insufficient ballast, or uneven ground plus FEL lift effort...this is NOT good and can be jerky...which is why when carrying an extremely heavy load I ALWAYS keep my hand on the FEL lever so I can drop the weight immediately if I start tipping. And, you WILL tip if you carry a very heavy load over sloping ground. Not to worry, you will exercise care and soon learn how the tractor "feels" when it is nearing the danger zone. The HST is your friend here, allowing you to creep along when conditions are uncertain.

 

[Buppies]

TripleR see you are up early to. Spread 18 yards of mulch yesterday along with some dirt and still up by 6:00 AM reading. Oh well so much for sleeping in

 

[texasjohn]

I used a T fitting and piece of straight pipe, cut to length. For the lift arms, a T fitting sized to slide over the handle with smaller pipe inside facing the rear and bolted into the T fitting to allow movement as lift arm moves up and down. For top link hydraulics, similar T fitting simply fitting over the hydraulic handle with handle pointing to rear...simply a pressure fit, I didn't glue it...I carry both inside cab for use as needed.

Hint...all I did was figure out how to attach a somewhat rigid handle (for push/pull) running from outside tractor where I could reach it to inside and figure out how to affix it temporarily to lift arm handle/hydraulic handle. Likely many ways to do this, I just had some pipe and fittings and fiddled around until I found something that works and is inexpensive...not elegant, but super handy...have used it for several years now.

TexasJohn how did you rig the plastic pipe to control levers from outside the cab? I am sort of dense if I can't see pictures. Thanks

 

[Buppies]

Thanks I will try to work on that this afternoon . The t fitting is a great idea