Operating a Post Hole Digger

[TJP89]

My big project this spring is a lean-to off the back of the polebarn. Due to rapid expansion of my tractor fleet and accompanying implements, as well as a trailer, I'm out of room in the barn. So this will be to park a car, trailer and implements under. My plan calls for 2 lines of 4 vertical supports each. I'm told that the best way to set these up is to pour concrete footers about 4ft deep, embed brackets in the cement, and then attach 4*4 posts to the brackets. As I really have no interest in digging 8 4ft deep holes a foot wide or so by hand, I had thought to rent a 3PTH PHD to make life easier. On further thought I realized I had no idea how to use one, so here I am with a couple of questions.

1) Will this actually make life easier? I assume so, since I know how hard hand digging is.

2) I have no down force on my 3PTH, will this be a problem or will the digger screw itself into the ground (pretty soft ground)?

3) How do I make the hole straight? The 3PTH moves in a circle, so as the digger goes down, it would seem that the hole would curve toward the tractor. Is there a trick to this, or is there a linkage on the digger that negates it?

4) Not related to the implement. How deep do my footers actually have to be? I'm told below the frost line, but I have no idea where that actually is here. I'm is very south central MI, so if anyone has any knowledge about this, sharing it would be appreciated.

 

[CobyRupert]

Here's my $.02:

1. Yes*

2. No.

3. Ease the tractor ahead about a 1/2 auger diameter when it's half way in. Let the auger did in only a little at a time, pulling it up to clean off frequently so that it doesn't screw itself in beyond the capacity of your 3 pth to pull it up. If the auger is 9" or 12" diameter, the hole doesn't really need to be perfectly straight for a 4"x4" post to be installed straight.

4. 42"


*: Easier by 2000% Not including attaching the awkward thing to your 3 PTH, no if it breaks and you have to back 4' of auger out by hand. Then it's harder.

 

[newbury]

3) Like Colby wrote. And if you want REALLY straight holes use the tubular concrete forms that cost about $10@
4) Check w/ your local building code to be positive.

And if you think you might be doing this in the future consider a PHD can be bought NEW for about $500. I got mine from Agrisupply for ~$350 plus ~ $100 for an auger.

 

[TJP89]

3) Like Colby wrote. And if you want REALLY straight holes use the tubular concrete forms that cost about $10@
4) Check w/ your local building code to be positive.

And if you think you might be doing this in the future consider a PHD can be bought NEW for about $500. I got mine from Agrisupply for ~$350 plus ~ $100 for an auger.

Yes I considered buying, and may still do so, but I really have no other tasks for it, so renting appears to be the best option. I do plan using the cardboard forms as a concrete mold and then filling in around them.

 

[ctgoldwing]

I had to drill 100 holes for fence posts here in Connecticut where the ground is not only boney but also on a significant grade in the woods. There was no way I could have done that job with a phd. It was a challenge to keep the holes straight but as Coby noted you can just creep the tractor as you drill to keep the hole vertical. For me it was imperative to drill some & pull out the auger not onlt to keep the hole clear but also to keep from snagging roots - no reverse, so if you really wrap around one keep a pipe wrench handy.

I bought mine from a local tractor dealer. It was hardly used when I got it (~$350 with auger). I sold it on Craigslist for $300 when I was done.

 

[phiferpharm]

The one thing I notice with my PHD is that it works much better for me if I DON"T run it at a full 540 RPM's on the PTO. I guess I'm lucky as after over 300 poles, I still haven't ran into any rocks on my property.

 

[varmint]

I found that starting the hole with the auger tilted just slightly forward at the top would give me vertical holes when it went down in its natural arc. You may have trouble getting 48" deep holes- mine will go about 3' when set up properly, not 4'. I snapped a shear bolt only one time in about a 100 holes, drilling right next to a tree and getting caught between two roots. A big pipe wrench was required to back it out. I also find less that 540 rpm works best. Power isn't an issue- most of my holes got drilled using a B8200 with 16 PTO hp... And there were plenty of rocks to deal with.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Check the bld code, but code here is 48" deep... My post hole digger will do 48", but I have to keep all the dirt away from the hole to do it...

I believe they have upped the roof load from 40 pounds per sq. ft., to 60 now too...

I'd put a couple pieces of rebar in the cement too...

SR

 

[varmint]

I didn't see it mentioned, but uplift would be a big concern with an open shed... another reason to go deep. The 60 psi loading would be due to increased snow loads? That would be a LOT of snow- only damming would cause that.

 

[JRP]

A PHD often has a shear bolt. A man here was killed when he was helping with a PHD. The shear bolt was too long and caught on his jacket. He was wrapped around the PHD auger before it could be stopped.

Keep a spare bolt the correct length, and also don't let any one around the PHD when you are running it. Be safe.