Photos of Third Function Valve Project

[Gordon Gould]

I wanted to install a new valve to control my grapple and get it off of the rear remotes so I can use them for TNT. I wanted the valve control to be near my FEL lever. Last Nov teg posted a very nice discription of a similar project he did. I stole alot of his ideas. THANKS teg. This is a link to his post

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7948-instructions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html

I started by buying a single spool DA 8 gpm Prince valve fropm Surplus Center.
Prince # MB11B5C1 DA.
I built a mounting plate for the valve from a piece of 5 1/2" X 6" 1/4" plate.
I drilled and tapped 3 holes for 3 3/8" mounting studs. Jam nutted and welded them.
Drilled 3 5/16" holes to mount the valve, and one hole in the corner for a heavy sheet metal screw to attach to the orange cover. I am going to mount the valve and plate on the FEL linkage cover. Photos: Linkage Cover, Cover Removed, Base Plate.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I wanted to be able to remove the linkage cover when I was done in case I had to get in there. So I cut off the two rear mounting tabs and cut a chunk out of the top. I used the two rear cover mounting screw holes in the FEL bracket for 2 of the the 3/8" studs. The bottom cover screw is still used from under neath.
Photos: Cover Cuts.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I turned the handle housing on the valve around 180 degrees so that it was pointing downward. Mounted the valve on the base then put the assembly on the tractor. Two of the studs go into the rear cover holes, the third goes into a hole I drilled in the outside corner of the FEL bracket. Photos: Valve, Housing 180, Valve & Plate, On Tractor

 

[Gordon Gould]

I made a lever arm from a 3/4" X 1" bushing and a 18" length of 1/2" rod. I put an oblong hole in the bushing to allow side motion to the lever. This way it can move left and right to follow the FEL lever when I curl and dump. I bent the rod to match the angle of the FEL lever arm.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I put the whole thing together on the tractor. One note: In order to slide the orange cover under the valve mounting plate you have to remove the valve handle housing ( 4 cap screws ). Next I need to cut off the lever arm when I receive the knob I have on order from Missicks. Then I need to take it all apart for painting and reassemble using locking hardware. Then I get to do the plumbing and figure out the mystical maze of hydraulic couplings. That empty hole in the corner will have a 1/4" sheet metal screw down into the cover. Here is what it looks like so far.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Here is my hydraulics diagram. I am going to steal what I can from teg's parts list that he was nice enough to give us. It will be a while before I am done. I would like nice weather for the plumbing.

 

[teg]

Cool!!! One thing I wish I did before connecting everything is PAINT the valve... I need to update my post, just have to find some time.

Another thing I did was SHORTEN my kubota loader handle (vs. you making the new one longer) I always like getting on and off the tractor either side, this made it easier.

 

[/pine]

How do you like the 'Wolverine' series valves?
I have several of them.

 

[kennyd]

Nice job...But why post it here rather than in the Hydraulics forum? You should ask a Moderator to move it.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Nice job...But why post it here rather than in the Hydraulics forum? You should ask a Moderator to move it.

Thanks.
That makes sense but I have no clue how to contact a moderator
The info must be here somewhere but I haven't found it yet.
gg

 

[kennyd]

Thanks.
That makes sense but I have no clue how to contact a moderator
The info must be here somewhere but I haven't found it yet.
gg

Click the red triangle that is under your username...

 

[MossRoad]

I don't know... it is both hydraulics and you are building it yourself. We can move it for you if you like, or leave it here. Just let us know by pushing the little report post button again and dropping us another note. Your choice.

Nice job, by the way. :thumbsup:

 

[MossRoad]

There you go. :thumbsup:

I moved it to hydraulics per your request and left a redirect in the original forum that will expire in a month. That way anyone that was following the thread will be able to find it for the next 30 days.

 

[nealfris]

Teg, I have a question regarding your well detailed valve install. Could your 3 spool install be reconfigured with a elec/hyd valve for grapple? I would love to match your design.Just change to, TnT for the back and switch on joystick for front??? maybe a layout of (lever-elec- lever) stack on top of housing like yours

Neal

 

[teg]

Teg, I have a question regarding your well detailed valve install. Could your 3 spool install be reconfigured with a elec/hyd valve for grapple?...

Neal, yes (if I understand correctly) you can. The only reason I did not use the elec./hyd valve was cost for just one valve... I don't have a problem using the grapple as it is setup now. ...and I can't see a need for the elec./hyd switch (i.e. what does it do better???)

I would not buy the Needle Valve, while the are nice, I can feather the valve easy enough.

Trim the apple trees, cleanup was quick and easy. My "birds nest"... you can see I cut 8.25" off my FEL joystick... makes it extremely responsive (I'm still trying to figure out if that's a good thing or not...)

 

[nealfris]

Thanks Teg. I will rethink the elec/hyd. I guess its bells and whistles when it comes down to it. After all, how many times do you actually open and close the grapple while moving curl/raise all at once? Could you give more info on what and where on the grapple purchase??? Also $. Thanks
Sorry for stealing the thread. BTW, thank you Gordon for your nice write up on your project. Very helpful for me as I have the same set up (orange metal cover) you do.

Neal

 

[nealfris]

Teg, forgot to ask; is the set up under your step with the filter factory? I would like to put a filter on mine as it only has the strainer. Also is that block where you get power beyond or at valve? I have PB from loader valve to BH now. Sorry, didnt go back through all your photos.

 

[teg]

...After all, how many times do you actually open and close the grapple while moving curl/raise all at once?

Could you give more info on what and where on the grapple purchase???

I'm not in a rush to get things done so doing one thing at a time isn't a problem. I take small bites and make a larger pile than take a bite into the large pile... usually getting most of it.

I bought the grapple used from TBN member Westbrooklawn for $350 - I always liked the style of the WR Long grapple vs. the Thumb (or the like). It comes with the reinforced top bar that bolts to the sides of the bucket.

I didn't make any changes under the step area, it's factory. Power Beyond is part of the valve, in both the FEL and my added spools.

Now back to Gordon Gould's thread

 

[Gordon Gould]

teg I like your cut off FEL lever. Puts everything close.
I like the idea of a fully hydraulic control to give you a better "feel" and feathering ability. In real life I don't know how important that actually is, but I like it. Also the fully hydraulic control was simpler and cheaper for me to install.
I finished my lever arm. The grapple control is always within reach now. It moves left to right with my FEL lever as I dump and curl. It is much better than where it was down by my rear end on the rear remote control.

 

[Gordon Gould]

We had some lousy weather so I sat down and figured out what I needed for hydraulic fittings. I used #8 (1/2") fittings and QDs with 3/8" hose to be consistant with the original equipment. I ordered them from DiscountHydraulicHose.com.

It looks like my total cost for the Third Function Valve installation will be just under $250. Here is how it breaks down.


Parts S/H
------ ------
Single Spool Valve Surplus Center $89.95 $12.98

5 1/2" X 6" X 1/4" Plate Walbridge Welding $5.00
Includes welding nuts

18" length 1/2" rod Walbridge Welding $6.00
Includes welding bushing

Knob for lever arm Messicks $15.37 $13.61

Fittings Discount Hydraulic Hose $55.77 $16.09

3 short 3/8" hoses w/ jic 8F NAPA $30.00 (est.)
--------- ---------
$202.09 $42.68


I hope someone finds some of this info useful.

gg