Pole barn...anchor posts?

[FL4400]

I always drill a hole thru opposite side and run a piece of # 5 rebar thru each hole about half way down into the concrete.

 

[davitk]

I like the pressure treated cleat idea. If you cannot readily find Ground Contact 2x material, rip a 4x4 in half. Quick, easy and cheap. The rebar drilled into the sides and set in concrete is a good iea also. I wouldn't worry too much about corrosion since the footings should be dry (make sure they are dry; this is your shed).

Just a FYI, I saw a pole barn (pieces of it, that is, scattered all over the countryside) and EMPTY holes where the shed used to stand after an updraft sucked it out of the ground..... 6x6 posts set on concrete cookies 48" down, no anchors.

 

[QRTRHRS]

The frost depth where I live is 24". We dug down about 30" in most areas. There are 26 posts in my 30 x 36 building. On average, the posts are 5 feet apart. On closer inspection, the 18" number I mentioned above is only for a few holes with extra concrete. I will measure each hole tomorrow for my own curiosity.

Regarding the hold down brackets, they are not readily available with the proper amount of galvanization for treated lumber. They now have to be special ordered with a 4 to 6 week wait. I did find 11 brackets that were old inventory at the lumber yard with the correct amount of galvanization. I installed those around the perimeter. Regarding the use of a treated lumber sleeve, that isn't easy to accomplish ether. Most commonly available 2x lumber only has a .10 treatment. Lumber placed below grade should have a .31 treatment. This is a special order and the lumber yard will not order the small quantity I need.

Most pole barns are build with poles on 8' center. With no openings, that would be 16 posts around the perimeter for my building (132 / 8). With 11 posts anchored, I should be ok I hope.

I don't agree with your PT lumber retention numbers. I am thinking that the wood from Home Depot is treated to .40 and you need at least .60 for inground posts. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.

The builder I used to haul materials for used the cleat method Cleridon mentioned on concrete pads (bagged or poured depending on the customer and code) backfilled with earth or concrete again per customer and code. The cleats should be predrilled so they do not split.

Whatever you do, you need to use the proper fasteners or they are not going to last.

 

[davitk]

.25 above ground, .40 ground contact, .60 permanent wood foundation, per American Wood Preservers Institute, www.awpi.org

 

[marrt]

.25 above ground, .40 ground contact, .60 permanent wood foundation, per American Wood Preservers Institute, www.awpi.org

I should have been more specific. I'm not talking about CCA or ACQ. My lumber yard carries "Wolmanized" brand of Copper Azole (CA-B). There are many different formulations out there now, which leads to even the lumber yards being very confused. They should have standardized around a specific nomenclature, regardless of the formulation. Something like AG-Above Ground, GC=Ground Contact and BG=Below Ground.

Pressure Treated Lumber - Conrad Forest Products: 800-356-7146 CCA- Wolmanized Outdoor Wood