Pole Barn Project Pics 40x72x14

[keving]

The concrete is cured. The ceiling is being put in and the walls are being studded. Over the weekend, a friend and I installed the meter base and installed the electric panel box.

I need your opinion on what to do with these walls. They are part of the "carport" portion of the barn. I will have the ceiling metal down to the 8' mark and I'm looking for ideas of what to put on the walls. If I put metal all the way down, it would quickly become dented and scratched. Here's the pics:

I ran the 3/4 inch waterline in perf drain pipe to protect it from rocks. I also ran network cable and phone cable in a separate conduit.

Water has arrived at the barn!

 

[thunderworks]

When I built my metal building (40 X 62) woodshop, I sheeted the interior with 3/4" plywood. The plywood, hung and varnished was barely any more money than had I sheetrocked it. The plywood made the building incredibly rigid and one of the un-anticipated benefits is that the building is noticeably quieter than normal. I'm in an area with a lot of high winds. I can hardly hear the wind outside. I used a blown in insulation which put the steel skin under tension.

Don't know if plywood would appeal to your or not, but it was a good choice for my situation. Your use is clearly different than mine, so ply may or may not appeal.

 

[KentT]

My gut tells me that if there is ever a huge snow load the 2x12s could crack and fail.

As Eddie says, becaiuse of the angles on the end of the rafters, it would actually have to push the outside walls out in order to slip down, even if there were no notches involved. As long as there are good stringers or collar ties connecting the outside wall to the interior wall, the notches aren't even necessary, and are already providing an "overbuilt" factor...

As an example, the entire second floor of my 1850s post-and-beam garage/carriage house is suspended by a 1" rod coming down from one set of "false rafters" underneath the roof. There's no center posts or anything supporting the entire span of the second floor -- only the exterior wall posts. At one time there was a full commercial wood-working/cabinet shop up there, with all their equipment and materials Those false rafters are rough-sawn full 6"x6" beams, cut at about 45-degree angles (I think the roof pitch is 6/12) and are joined together with wooden pegs. The angle on their ends prevents them from falling -- as long as the 8" tie beam that spans the second floor doesn't fail, letting the outside walls spread further apart. That collar tie is mortised into the center set of 8"x8" vertical posts and holds them together, using wooden pegs. It's now 150 years old (built some time between 1853 and 1857, according to town tax assessor records) and still sturdy...

The only nails in the entire barn/carriage house are the cut nails (flat, not round) that hold the outside pine sheeting on it and the more recent roofing nails holding down the now-asphalt shingles...

Didn't mean to t/j, only to point out that his pole barn is already surprisingly strong...

On the point of finishing the interior walls -- if you're using roll insulation, you may want to consider putting up some sheets of peg board on the walls above work-bench level, and painting it. That gives you an incredibly versatile method of hanging things on the walls. The peg board is not THAT much more expensive than drywall -- when you consider the labor to tape and finish the drywall.

 

[patrick_g]

OSB or ply are better choices than drywall and such. If there is fire danger (welding etc) then "paint" the wood with sodium silicate solution or use Hardy (Hardi) backer instead of wood or the backer over OSB or ply where the fire danger is located.

I originally asked my contractor to use peg board instead of Sheetrock in my shop but he talked me out of it on several grounds including but not limited to a continual source of F/G insulation dust in the air. I suppose if you used foam in place insulation or cut pieces of rigid foam there would be less of a problem.

I really like OSB or ply for shed walls since it is so versatile for shelves or whatever and it certainly takes more abuse than dry wall.

Ah, and before I forget... Great looking building. Also smart move wth the flexible drain pipe.

Pat

 

[GT2]

as long as the 8" tie beam that spans the second floor doesn't fail, letting the outside walls spread further apart. .

This is my consern. Look at post #49 picture 1.
What is holding the the outside post wall from spreading out and alowing the rafters to fail / slip off? (At the rear there is a wall to provide a tie together, but no where else that I can see.)
Please be aware that I am in no way trying to say anything is bad about this building or that the builder dosent know what he is doing. Its a beautiful piece of work that I could only dream of owning.

 

[philbuilt]

Keving,
When I built my garage I did the wall with 6" t&G Pine Boards and clear stained. Here's the reason I shopped around and found it was the least expensive of wall coverings and looks great. I did have concerns at the floor because its my "doghouse" and I weld and cut and do mechanical stuff. so I added flat metal strips along the floor. Look around and talk with the small local sawmills you will be amazed at what they are stocking.

I have watch this post and looked forward to reading daily.
Great Job it's a wonderful building.
Phil

 

[KentT]

This is my consern. Look at post #49 picture 1.
What is holding the the outside post wall from spreading out and alowing the rafters to fail / slip off? (At the rear there is a wall to provide a tie together, but no where else that I can see.)
Please be aware that I am in no way trying to say anything is bad about this building or that the builder dosent know what he is doing. Its a beautiful piece of work that I could only dream of owning.

The end that has the siding partially on is well tied in. There's a diagonal tieing all the rafters together on the other end. I can't see to tell how it is joined to the top plate of the interior, main wall, though...

To be honest, I'd be more concerned with the wind getting under it up on that hill, instead of snow load -- even in his northern climate. But he's siding the "downhill end" so that should address that issue.

patrick_g, I've just spec'd my new garage with pegboard on two entire walls without any questions/concerns on the builders part. He'll use faced fiberglass bats, with the facing toward the interior and tape all seams in the insulation. Unless I should happen to puncture the facing, there's no way for the fiberglass to get out the cavity and into garage...

 

[keving]

Great feedback everyone. I am planning to use OSB on the inside primed and painted with an industrial paint. The area that I'm most concerned about is the "carport" area which could be potentially exposed to the elements. The metal will come down the walls to about the 8' mark and I will need to put something from that point to the floor. My only reservations on using any wood product is moisture. I thinking the PT T&G from the floor up to a out 4' would be good and use metal from there. Your thoughts?

 

[schmism]

i use OSB on the wall.

Ive been known to mix with drywall depending on materials price at the time.

A row of OSB layed down means the bottom 4' of wall is covered in dent resistant plywood.

the rest is covered with non-taped drywall.

 

[Nathan_OR]

Kevin a big thanks from me for taking the time to post up those photos. What a great barn! Thanks for the ideas.

And thanks for the discussion on the shed rafters, everyone. I learned something there.

Nathan