Problem sharpening a new chain

[RandyT]

Getting ready to play with some more complicated chain myself. My files for sharpening square ground came in so will get to work on trying to sharpen that style chain.

 

[PILOON]

Never used an guides.
I simply file a stroke or 2 every odd tank fill just to maintain a nice fresh edge and the chips fly.
Every so often I clamp my blade in a vice and touch up the rakers and clean up any damaged teeth.
Important is also to draw file the bar to a nice flat or square surface.
Here a single cut file is the best tool.

 

[kco]

I use Stihl chains with a Stihl 2-in-One sharpener/guide. I notice the same difficulty on the first sharpening of a new chain even though I am sure it is the correct file, guide and for the chain. It just happens on the first stroke or two on a few teeth. After that everything works as normal. I only use a new chain once or twice per year so it doesn't happen often.

However, I bought a new saw in October with a longer bar (but same chain profile, just more links) and a couple of new chains. I noticed the problem on the first sharpening of the new chain. I think it is as others have noted about the original profile being a bit different on some teeth. Just powering through it the first time fixes it.

 

[frcnLS]

If you are cutting mostly all softwoods those sorts of file-holder hand guides are good enough. If you have much hardwood like I have cut for the last thee decades, you need an accurate system. I was never much good with the hand guide like that. I use one just for touchup in the field, but that's all. Now, except for the files themselves, the Oregon brand tools I have tried have been of low quality. I tried the "Timberline" sharpening jig but I did not like it. I have been using the "Granberg Bar-Mount Chain Saw Sharpener, Model# G-106B" for quite some time in my home-shop. They also make a similar tool that uses a 12 volt powered grinder (G1012XT). It holds the file precisely at both angles.

The way I get a chain really sharp, particularly if you have hit a rock or such, is start with a dial caliper and measure the length of all the teeth to find the short one. Using the Grandburg I set it up and sharpen that one tooth. I then measure it and sharpen all the rest of the teeth to that length. When they are all the same length they are also all the same height. It does sound like a lot of work, but it is effective. I learned the measuring trick from a professional lumberjack.

I harpened our fire company's saw and the enxt firefighter who used it said it was the sharpest re-sharpened saw he ever used.

 

[Ortimber]

Eric’s explanation is correct.

 

[Garson]

Oregon makes a dremel style chain grinder that comes with different size stones. Once you try it you'll be hooked. It sharpens the chain in one third the time and does a great job. It runs off 12V so you can sharpen at your work bench with an old battery charger or anywhere in the field with your tractor/car battery.

 

[wsc9tt]

That orange Stihl file guide that was posted on the Amazon link is really nice. In addition to sharpening the teeth, it keeps the rakers at the right level so the chain continues to cut nicely. That file is crazy expensive, but I remember it being $35 not $50 so look around.
I also stopped buying the anti-kickback chains and got the more aggressive versions and was much happier. (I think they are green vs yellow. ???)
A safety chain is not safe if you are struggling to get it to cut.

 

[ericm979]

Properly sharpened anti kickback chains do not cut any slower than regular chain, except when making bore cuts. The anti-kickback feature sticks up and reduces the raker depth when the chain is bent around the nose of the bar. That's how it reduces kickback. On the flat part of the bar it's below the rakers and has no effect. On some the anti kickback feature may need to be filed when the rakers are filed.

I've tried a couple of the Granberg type filing contraptions. I find them slow and frustrating to use. I'd rather hand file or use the Oregon guide that's just a flat plate. I mostly cut hardwoods on my property and hand filing works well for me. I do have a lot of practice hand filing as that's how I sharpened chains when I was running saws for the forest service. But there's a reason there's a lot of different tools for sharpening chains, different ones work for different people.

 

[PILOON]

I may not be a pro but I hand file and I can assure U that the chips fly.

OK, perhaps I have a sharp eye and dexterity but my saws cut, and well.
Since I VERY rarely cut on or near the ground I avoid damaging saw teeth.
From there a touch or 2 with the PROPER file goes a long way to keep teeth sharp.
I do like to do that 'touch up' often, besides at my age (83) I like the that 'rest' period.

It is really not rocket science, just align (eyeball) your file with the angles of the teeth and give a stroke or 2 every tanking or 2 and those chips will fly.

Also, as said B4, use a single cut file and dress your blade every so often. Keep the blade edge square so as to have your chain track true otherwise the chain will wobble and make things worse.

 

[dodge man]

Oregon makes a dremel style chain grinder that comes with different size stones. Once you try it you'll be hooked. It sharpens the chain in one third the time and does a great job. It runs off 12V so you can sharpen at your work bench with an old battery charger or anywhere in the field with your tractor/car battery.

I have one of those, I like it, but I still prefer to hand file.