PTO generator selection help

   / PTO generator selection help #21  
I haven't looked into how the voltage regulator works on these. Can't imagine it being a big help but it might.
 
   / PTO generator selection help #22  
I have a 15kw Winco, and am happy with it. I set it on a trailer so I can wheel it around and store it easily in a small shed.
I agonized over the issue of needing the tractor during an outage, and finally decided I can just disconnect as necessary.
I absolutely hated maintaining a gasoline supply for my previous 7kw open frame Generac. The Generac was a great generator, but much louder than my tractor and PTO generator.

Mine is connected to the house through a 60a breaker and main interlock. The house connection link posted is not designed for generator supply.
 
   / PTO generator selection help
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Running clothes washer and refrigerator and possibly stove that have electronics would it be better to get a generator with AVR?

Also the IMD generator is the only one of the three that has readout to include Hz and amps.
 
   / PTO generator selection help #24  
That depends on how good your tractor governor responds to load changes. Mine is really good so I don't need the voltage regulator. I'm assuming that regulator is only for overvoltage and over freq control. It's an interesting feature but I honestly don't think you need it.
 
   / PTO generator selection help
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I would also buy a PTO Generator Tumbling Bar but some of the reviews from the IMD generator link are saying they had to cut the tumbling bar which I don't understand.

The particular tumbling bar is adjustable from 33"-52".
IMD P10013 - PTO Generator Tumbling Bar (10-26 kW - 540 RPM) | IMD P10013

I just want buy the stuff I need and install it without modifications.
 
   / PTO generator selection help
  • Thread Starter
#26  
   / PTO generator selection help #27  
An AVR will attempt to correct the voltage to be the correct 120/240 when the load varies and the tractors governor hasn't corrected.
Depending on who has built it from what I recall it will correct the voltage from around 56 Hz to 62 Hz, I don't know why those numbers stick
in my mind it would seem to me that it should be able to trim on both sides the same amount which would be 56 Hz to 64 Hz.

As far as the length of the pto shaft any shaft bought should be fitted to the tractor and application;
in this it would depend on the method of mounting the generator.
If the generator is pad mounted and you back up to to connect to it, it could be everwhere from very short to fully extended.
A trailer mounted unit will depend on the trailer design and tongue length.
A 3 point has to be connected to the tractor or be carefully backed to for the pto to be the proper length.

I prefer a trailer mount for several reasons;
I can tow the generator with most anything, atv/utv, truck, car, or tractor to were I want too.
Any tractor can be easily connected to it with no concern of 3 point sizing or category.
It is much simpler to connect to when it is needed, just back up to it and connect the pto.
Often I do not even bother putting the hitch pin in the drawbar when using mine,
I leave it parked in a convenient location with the tongue jack down and the tires securely chocked.

The reason you are not getting many comments on your announced method of connecting for powering the house
is that it is not a proper or desirable or safe method of doing so.
 
   / PTO generator selection help #29  
They aren't cheap, but I have an 1800RPM Baumalight QC12 w/ a built in AVR. This is a very robust generator, and when running it in E-PTO behind my Deere 4052R, it's very quiet and fuel efficient.
When using as a home backup unit, I plug it into an outside 50A receptacle which goes to a manual transfer switch located inside my house.

IMG_0705.jpg
 
   / PTO generator selection help #30  
I wasn't going to write this but here goes;

At a minimum you should install an interlock device on your main power panel;
Generator Interlock Kits Archives | GenInterlock

This is an inexpensive alternative to a whole house transfer switch which is a neater and cleaner way to do it.

Your material list sounds good, just the location and the method of having to manual turn breakers off to isolate power with no interlock
 

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