rake/driveway question

[Anonymous Poster]

I use a york rake on my crush driveway. Before I got my tractor I used the rake on the back of my Astro Van, took of the 3PH from the rake and put a trailer hitch on it, it worked great. With the tractor I dig deeper, probably because of the hydraulics pushing it down. I think I need the gage wheels. It still does a great job but I do experience the moguls. The worst is when you get a bucket of crush, and fail to dumpi it in just one pile. Then the tractor hits the first pile and the raises the rake when it gets to the second pile. Either dump it alll at once or space it out beyond the wheel base of your tractor.

LOL, Frank

 

[djradz]

Angling the blade wil not only help with the windrow effect but also the bumps. Angling helps the rake to dig in better and also spreads out the bumps over more distance. I've never used the rake backwards - probably because with gage wheels the're not a digging in problem.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

This is a timely thread. I've got a 700' gravel driveway to maintain. Half of it is level and needs very little maintenance. The other half is on a slope (not steep) leading up to our garage, house, and barn. The gravel (recycled asphalt) gets washed down the slope by heavy rains, leaving a pile of gravel at the bottom, deep ruts along the sides, and a variety of ruts, potholes, and bumps scattered along the rest of the driveway. I've got a TC33, and need to apply the right implement and technique. I already have a rear blade, but using it alone can do more harm than good. Would a LandPride LR 05 or LR 15 series rake )w/gauge wheels and the flip down blade) do the job? I'd also like to read more about people's techniques for doing this.

TIA, Peter

 

[CTyler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I already have a rear blade, but using it alone can do more harm than good. )</font>

Why is that?

You can angle the blade back/forward for more/less bite. If you turn the blade around backward it will smooth only. Angle it to put material where you want it.

Other peeps have talked about using gauge wheels to help keep a constant depth. I use a box blade and/or rear blade for mine and its about 600' or so and mostly hill.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Gosh, I didn't think of turning the thing around...I'm still kind of new at this [can't you tell? ;-) ]. But does a rear blade really do as good a job as a rake and/or box blade? You said that you use both a rear and a box blade? Not that I'm dying to buy another attachment..unless it's a better tool for the job.

-Peter

 

[centell]

Just curious, I have almost every attachment for my tractor but have never heard of a york rake. Could someone send me a picture of one. From what I read on this forum they seem to work real good for those of you who owns one.
Thank you.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I've got a 300' slope that will get 10" gullies when it rains hard. With the york rake the best I've found is to use it with no angle whatsoever. With the angle I tend to dig unevenly and have piles. I have also found that if I limit how far down I allow the 3PH to drop the rake by adjusting the upper arm I don't dig so much. I do wish I had gauge wheels, but I see myself making some soon, since I saw one post where someone paid $250 for a pair.

My hill will get washed to the bottom also with the crush, but it holds up pretty good. The best solution I have found to get the water off is to put "speed bumps" up on an angle to divert the flow. Usually one every 100' seems to do the trick. This will save you ooodles of time and material.

LOL, Frank D

 

[tc35dforme]

Here's a pic of a Landpride unit...not a recommendation, just the easiest pic to grab !!!!

York is a manufacturer's name. It has become the 'slang' name for this type of rake, although a bunch of folks make them.

 

[CTyler]

Hi,
I use the box blade to smooth out the dips in the drive. The BB better at gathering material, cutting high spots and filling low spots. The lumber, cement, steel, dump, etc.. trucks are doing wonders for my drive. When going back up they just barely spin the tires once in while. Its hardly noticable when it happens but it starts creating "woopty doos".

The rear blade is better at moving material side to side and smoothing. If I would swipe the drive with the rear blade a couple times a week it would work ok. Instead I wait a couple weeks until its trashed because I'm buried doing other things during construction.