RAM 3500 Question

[EverythingAttachments]

Been there done that. Never again. Not even in my pole barn. My house garage is heated to 55 deg and me and the misses are spoiled. I even park inside at work.

Next house will have a 30' deep garage.

Chris

If I were up there, i'd probably feel the same way! Winters aren't usually that bad around here, but I don't think you could ever have a garage that's too large.
Travis

 

[Diamondpilot]

If I were up there, i'd probably feel the same way! Winters aren't usually that bad around here, but I don't think you could ever have a garage that's too large.
Travis

Yea, this one's been tough. We have had 4' of snow and currently have 18" on the ground with 3" forecasted tomorrow.

The other issues are the cold temps. At my house we have had 20 days plus of -15 deg at night.

I have a 44'x52' pole barn but it's not all heated. I have a 16'x20' shop I keep at 50 deg.

Chris

 

[kenmac]

Here's your solution.....5.9 Mega Cab!!
Travis

View attachment 360510

I know, I looked at 1 B-4 I bought the regular crew cab. Mega is just a little long to get into parking places , etc, I don't think the newer crew cabs are as long as the Mega Cab. Mega Cabs are nice for long highway trips ,just not practicable for in / around town use

 

[wmonroe]

The new crew cab w/8' beds are actually a little longer than a mega. The mega cab is the same frame and truck length as a quad cab 8' bed. Once you're used to driving it, it is easy.

 

[Midniteoyl]

We did look at a 2006 2500 Mega Cab with the 5.7L, but we didn't like the miles / age. It had a cassette deck... Really?!?! We would have loved a Mega Cab.

Easy enough to change the stock radio for something better.. In fact, betcha that is what happened - the last owner could get a better deal than the factory radio, so deleted the electronic UConnect.

 

[Soundguy]

i changed out the stock radio in my 350 and 450 for something nicer / cheaper than factory upgrade. kit was fairly easy to install. think it took me an hour start to finish

 

[Daves3032E]

Congratulations! Good looking truck. Do come back and keep us posted on how it does over the next 10,000-50,000 miles.

Figured I'd give an update. The truck has a little over 288,000 mi on it now. Last summer I replaced the u-joints in the rear drive shaft. Last Fall I replaced the rear pads (due for the fronts soon I think). New tires in August and due for a new set about a month ago.

I need to change the front diff pinion seal, all of the ball joints, and the seal at the rear drive shaft / transfer case connection.

The engine light cam on about a week ago, so I need to see what that's about, but it came on when I activated the engine brake. I figured I would take a peek at the air filter and noticed that the air intake tube where it connects to the filter box lid was half off (not sure how that happened as I never took it off). I got that back in place, but the light is still on, so I'll stop and get it scanned at the parts store to see what is says.

I use it as a daily driver and to tow my 16 ft gooseneck dump (4,200 lbs empty). I think I tend to overload the truck at times and have had to keep it in 1st gear to make it up one of the roads by my house. I really wish it had 4.10's at times instead of the 3.73's.

2 cord on this load:

Will finish loading with 2.66 cord of splits on it tonight for a delivery tomorrow.

I'm already wishing I had a DRW. Maybe something in the RAM 5500 size.

Overall I'm happy with the truck, but it seems more often than not, that it feels like it lacks the power I want (most all hills in my area are met with the pedal to the floor and a decrease in speed).

 

[Diamondpilot]

Seems like it's wearing good for how you use it. Take care of them 10 small items ASAP or it will mound up and lead to bigger issues. These are the Nickel and Dime items I was speaking of.


Chris

 

[dodge man]

I'm not sure if this works on the newer trucks or not, but you can cycle the key on my truck to get the codes out of it yourself. You turn the key off and on three times leaving it on the last time. Do this without starting it and it will display the error codes in the odometer window.

Funny you post this but someone is replacing my rear u-joints at this exact moment, took it in the shop toady. Its one of those things I could do myself probably but don't feel like it.

Good luck with the truck and thanks for the update and pics.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm not sure if this works on the newer trucks or not, but you can cycle the key on my truck to get the codes out of it yourself. You turn the key off and on three times leaving it on the last time. Do this without starting it and it will display the error codes in the odometer window. Funny you post this but someone is replacing my rear u-joints at this exact moment, took it in the shop toady. Its one of those things I could do myself probably but don't feel like it. Good luck with the truck and thanks for the update and pics.

I don't blame you. My buddy has a GM SUV and he needed U joints. I called Auto Zone and Mogg Joints were about $40 each. He got a shop to do them for $50 each flat rate since I didn't have the time.

I would have charged him that or more.

Chris