Grading Rear drag blade: offset vs sliding, 5' vs 6'

[alia176]

Folks,

I apologize if this topic has been covered before but a cursory search revealed tons of threads that didn't really give me the info I need. My tractor is 5' wide at the rear tire and the conventional wisdom here dictates the use of a 6' rear blade. However, if I purchase an offset or a sliding blade, would a 5' blade suffice? Meaning, when the blade is angled, I can either slide or offset the blade and still be able to grade beyond the rear tire. Is this logical?

Another point that I'm considering is that a 5' rear blade will allow the use of a 6' wide trailer if needed.

Next question is what works better and/or lasts longer. Pros and cons of a sliding blade or an offset blade.
Sliding blade:https://howseimplement.com/product-...s-scrapers/6-economy-slider-grader-blade.html
Offset blade: https://howseimplement.com/product-...crapers/5-heavy-duty-offset-grader-blade.html

My uses: snow drag, gravel road maintenance with a crown, usual dirt moving.

I do have a 5' box blade with rippers at my disposal.

Thanks for your input!

 

[nybirdman]

The off set blade is a lot heavier duty and would be my choice.It's nice to be able to off-set and tilt the blade.
For snow removal you want a six footer.

 

[bcp]

If you offset a narrow blade, it will leave a pile of material between your wheel tracks. That may or may not be OK.

Bruce

 

[rrrkkk]

I would go with at least a 7 foot. any concrete you will need a rubber edge to protect it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A 6' Blade at a 35* angle only cuts about a 58" wide path, at 45* about 50".

 

[jenkinsph]

On a 5' wide tractor a 7' rear blade is a good fit in most cases. If you swivel the blade you can load it on a 6' wide trailer.

 

[lej]

I agree with the others, atleast a 6ft. blade. I use mine mostly for snow. If you use the box blade on your drive you won't have a crown. I work a quarter mile drive and the box blade keeps it smooth as a baby's hind end.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I hate to harp on this, but if you want your rear blade to "actually" work, you need something that weighs more than a few hundred lbs. This or something equivalent is about as light as I would go and still expect it to work in most conditions.


Just my :2cents:

 

[bcp]

Those are 83 to 99 pounds per foot.

I've often heard that dirt cutting implements start getting serious in the vicinity of 100 pounds per foot, so that fits.

Bruce

 

[paulfun9]

Folks,

I apologize if this topic has been covered before but a cursory search revealed tons of threads that didn't really give me the info I need. My tractor is 5' wide at the rear tire and the conventional wisdom here dictates the use of a 6' rear blade. However, if I purchase an offset or a sliding blade, would a 5' blade suffice? Meaning, when the blade is angled, I can either slide or offset the blade and still be able to grade beyond the rear tire. Is this logical?

Another point that I'm considering is that a 5' rear blade will allow the use of a 6' wide trailer if needed.

Next question is what works better and/or lasts longer. Pros and cons of a sliding blade or an offset blade.
Sliding blade:https://howseimplement.com/product-...s-scrapers/6-economy-slider-grader-blade.html
Offset blade: https://howseimplement.com/product-...crapers/5-heavy-duty-offset-grader-blade.html

My uses: snow drag, gravel road maintenance with a crown, usual dirt moving.

I do have a 5' box blade with rippers at my disposal.

Thanks for your input!

I would skip both and look for something that is more heavy duty, has more weight and the cradle type pins A heavy blade always works better for me and I doubt you can find a useable blade new for under a thousand dollars as a decent med duty will be in the neighborhood of 1300 to 1500 at best. Heavy duty will be over 2000 just about any day of the week unless your buying Used.

 

[Wannabe Tractor Man]

everythingattachments.com is the place to go. Check out the product videos and you will learn all you need to know.

Happy tractoring!

 

[alia176]

I agree with the others, atleast a 6ft. blade. I use mine mostly for snow. If you use the box blade on your drive you won't have a crown. I work a quarter mile drive and the box blade keeps it smooth as a baby's hind end.

Forgive this newbie question, is it not possible to tilt the box blade enough to maintain a crown?

Next question/observation is this: would my tiny tractor be able to pull a 7' blade with dirt in front of it? I have no experience with this particular size blade so figured I'd ask people with experience.

I agree, a heavy blade is more productive/useful but $/ft is more than I can cough up for the nicer blade. But, I could heavy up the blade by adding 100lb or 45 lb barbels. Is this something folks around here do to compensate?

I see that the majority prefer at least a 6' blade. What about the offset vs sliding, any idea as to the longevity and effectiveness with either design? Structurally speaking, it *seems* that the sliding blade is more reinforced since the main tube is stationery and not held on using a single pin. Of course, the Land Pride (and other similar) HD blade referenced above is made with lot of beef but it's way out of my price range unfortunately.

I'm enjoying the discussion, thank you!

 

[TerryR]

I agree, a heavy blade is more productive/useful but $/ft is more than I can cough up for the nicer blade. But, I could heavy up the blade by adding 100lb or 45 lb barbels. Is this something folks around here do to compensate?

I have an 18-year-old Bush Hog 60-06 rear blade, which is pretty light duty. I find it works fine without any added weight for re-shaping my gravel driveway, provided I wait until there is enough rain to add some moisture to the road. Waiting for that is not a problem since I need the moisture for the newly graded surface to pack with traffic - otherwise the gravel just gets thrown to the side anyway.

See this thread for photos.

I don't see any need for a heavier blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Forgive this newbie question, is it not possible to tilt the box blade enough to maintain a crown?

Next question/observation is this: would my tiny tractor be able to pull a 7' blade with dirt in front of it? I have no experience with this particular size blade so figured I'd ask people with experience.

I agree, a heavy blade is more productive/useful but $/ft is more than I can cough up for the nicer blade. But, I could heavy up the blade by adding 100lb or 45 lb barbels. Is this something folks around here do to compensate?

I see that the majority prefer at least a 6' blade. What about the offset vs sliding, any idea as to the longevity and effectiveness with either design? Structurally speaking, it *seems* that the sliding blade is more reinforced since the main tube is stationery and not held on using a single pin. Of course, the Land Pride (and other similar) HD blade referenced above is made with lot of beef but it's way out of my price range unfortunately.

I'm enjoying the discussion, thank you!

Yes you can build and maintain a crown with a box blade.

As far as how heavy a blade to get, if you are only working with loose materials, you are fine with a lighter blade. If you need to "work" the blade, then adding weight to a light weight blade works for a relatively short period of time before the stresses that are exerted from that additional weight take their toll of the light weight construction of the light weight blade.

I think that those of us that are recommending a heavier blade realize that a heavier better constructed blade will work better and last longer than a light weight blade. Many of us have gone the less expensive route on the first go around and then had to step up to the heavier implement for one reason or another.

You asked if your tractor is heavy enough to handle a 7' blade. Did you get your tires loaded, or is your tractor unballasted other that of the attachments-implements that you have on the tractor? No filled tires equals a 6' blade in my book. Filled tires and you can handle a 7' blade just fine.

As far as the slider vs the pivot, the pivot type offset is by far stronger and immensely easier to offset. Take a good look at the slider, major PITA if you ask me as well as putting more stress on everything. A pivot offset takes seconds to offset, a slider will take minutes at best and that is if the blade is clean.

As far as getting by with a lighter duty blade, yes you can "get by", but a heavier blade works by far better and should hold up for as long as you have the tractor.


Anything that I have said is just from my experiences both using and reading what others have said. You are the one that has to pay for and use what you get. If the linked to units are what you are choosing from, as in one or the other, get the offset pivot unit, you will be by far happier IMO.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

[alia176]

Thanks Brian, your inputs are very valuable to me, nothing beats real world experience in my book. I do love the heavy duty blades and maybe someday I'll find one used locally. It's *almost* tempting to find a used, ugly blade, then build the rest myself out of 4x4x5/16" tubing and the usual beef/gussets/etc.

Edit: I forgot to answer Brian's question, the tires are NOT loaded.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks Brian, your inputs are very valuable to me, nothing beats real world experience in my book. I do love the heavy duty blades and maybe someday I'll find one used locally. It's *almost* tempting to find a used, ugly blade, then build the rest myself out of 4x4x5/16" tubing and the usual beef/gussets/etc.

How soon do you need a rear blade? I may sell mine and get a full hydraulic heavy duty model. I am in Ruidoso so not that far away. No bends or warped edges everything is straight.

 

[SPYDERLK]

How soon do you need a rear blade? I may sell mine and get a full hydraulic heavy duty model. I am in Ruidoso so not that far away. No bends or warped edges everything is straight.

Does that one provide for offset?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Would my tiny tractor be able to pull a 7' blade with dirt in front of it? I have no experience with this particular size blade so figured I'd ask people with experience.

I agree, a heavy blade is more productive/useful but $/ft is more than I can cough up for the nicer blade. But, I could heavy up the blade by adding 100lb or 45 lb barbels. Is this something folks around here do to compensate?

I see that the majority prefer at least a 6' blade. What about the offset vs sliding, any idea as to the longevity and effectiveness with either design? Structurally speaking, it *seems* that the sliding blade is more reinforced since the main tube is stationery and not held on using a single pin. Of course, the Land Pride (and other similar) HD blade referenced above is made with lot of beef but it's way out of my price range unfortunately.

I'm enjoying the discussion, thank you!

I cant find a weight for your tractor, but Im guessing its the equivalent of a small L series Kubot. ~ 2k# plus loader. That is quite adequate for a 700# 7' blade. I have used our Rhino 7' offsetting type blade on a 2010 JD and our Kubot B9200. These bracket the L series capability. The JD can damage/bow the blade by brute force, but its right near the limit of the controlled force available. Thats a 2WD 6k# tractor. The 4WD 1500# B series HST is able to do useful work with the blade but would not be able to damage with controlled force. No loader or loaded tires. ... I have not used the blade, except to plow snow, on our loader equipped Ls but I bet it would be a good match. If they were HST I would definitely be using it on them. I think your tractor of similar weight and HP with HST would work ideally.

I think your need a heavier duty blade than the ones linked ... and I think you have the tractor to handle it well.
larry

 

[jenkinsph]

Does that one provide for offset?

Yes it has extra sets of predrilled holes to move the blade to either side. At 7' wide it should work well for the OP.

 

[alia176]

How soon do you need a rear blade? I may sell mine and get a full hydraulic heavy duty model. I am in Ruidoso so not that far away. No bends or warped edges everything is straight.

I have a borrowed blade currently so there is no hurry. I like your blade, looks heavy duty enough for my needs! I see that it can be offset but I'll need to add the "rotating" feature. Looks like you got the TnT feature, I'm so jealous!! Someday I'll get mine from Brian............

PM me with specifics and let's see what we can work out.

Thanks.