Rear Hydraulics

[DMF]

I am really interested in one of these dump trailers (http://www.countrymfg.com/cgi-bin/shop.cgi/page=2_ton_wagon.htm/SID=1111714864.17532) but I do not have rear hydraulics on my 1433V. Is there a kit available where this can be added? Have any of you done this addition? Is it something that a dealer needs to install or can I do it myself? Any photos of what it would look like? Any help from fellow Massey users is greatly appreciated!

 

[loulblades]

I am looking to put a log splitter on my GC2300 and just called my dealer to put a hydraulic setup on the rear (Got too many things going on right now to attempt it myself). He said $250 to put in plumbing and connectors.

 

[JerryG]

There are two different factory ways to add remotes to your 1433. One way and the one that you see most often is to add one or two valve bodies on the right side of the transmission case. The handles come up through the slots on the right of the seat. The other way and also the way that I have them on my 1440 is to get the valves for a joystick. The valves mount in the same place on the transmission as the first option does, but the joystick mounts to the right of the differential lock pedal. Either style works well, it just depends on your preference. To me the joystick version is faster and more convenient. I got the my joystick set-up from the factory by ordering the tractor as loader ready. By doing it that way, all I had to do was to reroute the lines and add mounts for the connectors. I then ordered a different joystick for the loader that mounts on the loader.

 

[DMF]

Jerry - I already have the joystick mounted on the fender and a tractor mounted valve; this is how the dealer set up my loader. Is there a way for me to tap off of that and run some lines to the back? Is there a way to keep the lines going to my loader and run the rear hydraulics or am I going to have to use a slector valve to choose between one or the other? I'm not concerned about lines; my nephew's work truck has a hydraulic line making machine on-board all I have to pay for is the crimp connectors at his company's dicounted price.

 

[JerryG]

How do you feel about a having a joystick on the loader for the loader?

 

[DMF]

Well, I kind of like the joystick where it is for the loader... are you telling me it can't be done (having both the loader and rear hydraulics operational)?
What about the buttons on the joystick that currently do nothing? Couldn't they be set up to control rear hydraulics?

 

[JerryG]

You could do it with electrically switched valves and even use the same joystick that you have to operate everything. The way I was referring to is the factory way. I do wish that MF would get their act together on additional remotes. If I didn't want the hydraulics set-up the way I have mine, I would bolt an arm to the roll bar with the control valve extended to above the right fender handle. Then just break in to the pressure line that goes to the loader.

 

[DMF]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I didn't want the hydraulics set-up the way I have mine, I would bolt an arm to the roll bar with the control valve extended to above the right fender handle. Then just break in to the pressure line that goes to the loader. )</font>
Would I need to add a selector valve in line as well? To either direct flow to the loader or to the valve controling the rear?

Sorry if the questions are dumb or have been covered before; I'm new here and not up to speed on all the workings of the hydraulic system. Thanks for your help and patience...

 

[Glenn9643]

Just a suggestion if you decide to go with a joy stick control for your rear remotes... I use remotes primarily for top&tilt cylinders, and had my control mounted on the crossbrace behind the seat where it joins the right fender. I figured any adjustments I made back there I would be turned to look back anyway and it's also where I can make adjustments to the lift arms from the ground to assist in hooking up implements, etc. If it's mounted over the diff lock, etc. you can't reach it from behind your tractor when hooking up.

 

[JerryG]

If you add another control valve, you won't need a selector valve. The open center hydraulic system is designed to have the fluid flow through all the valves then back to the tank.

You could add electric valves and still use your loaders control valve. If you went that way, you could have a push button or a switch to select the circuit.

 

[DMF]

Jerry - Would a log splitter valve work?

 

[JerryG]

I wouldn't want to use one anyway. They are low flow and have a automatic shut off. Plus, If I was going to go to all the trouble to setup this up, I would want at least a two spool valve. Look on Surplus Center.com. They have a vast selection of valves, at normally reasonably prices.

 

[DMF]

OK, just so I get it right: I take the pressure line from the tractor and run it to my auxiliary valve which has a normally open center port. I run a line from that valve to what was the pressure side of my tractor mounted loader valve. Then from the two ports on the auxiliary valve, I run two lines to the back of the tractor. Does that sound right?

 

[JerryG]

Pretty close. Take the pressure line that comes from the tractor, run it to the pressure port of your auxiliary valve. You will then have two lines that come out of that valve. One will be the power beyond line (bypass), take it to the power port of your loader valve. The other hose needs to go to the sump. The sump line can be run into a “T” with the sump line from the loader control valve. That is the only line that can be “T”.

 

[JerryG]

DMF,
Here is the schematic that I told you that I would draw for you.

 

[DMF]

Jerry - I took some photos of what is currently on the tractor. I assume this is the sump?

 

[DMF]

The two lines from the previous picture go to my tractor mounted valve. Where do I look for the port that is currently blocked? (I know, gotta stop those leaks, been fighting that battle since day one)

 

[DMF]

The hard line to the left in the first picture goes here.

 

[DMF]

Does anyone know of an on-line version of the "Installation Instructions form no. 1449774M1 (Loader Mounted Hydraulic Valve Kit Sales Code 5980911)" and an online version of an operator instruction book (owners manual) for the MF1470, 1475, 1480 Backhoe? Or does someone have a way to scan there’s and send it to me via e-mail or fax? Jerry has told me that it would help me tremendously for the information I need to hook up hydraulics.

 

[JerryG]

On the first picture, where are the two lines going? That is the sump manifold that they are attached to. Since you have two lines hooked up there, the diverter plug is already installed.