terraformer
Silver Member
Wait until the ground is soft. Sometimes dig down all around the tree.
Or cut them off flush and leave it at that.
Or cut them off flush and leave it at that.
Obviously I’d always like to push away so the tree doesn’t fall towards me but I believe I get more power with my L3200 by pulling but not sure if pulling from the back or front is best.
I learned the hard way that pulling trees can be very dangerous! I was pulling a roughly 7 inch maple with my 9N. I hooked a 20' chain about 18 inches from the base and hooked it to the draw bar. When I looked back, I saw the tree falling toward me and I literally "dove" between the branches which crashed down between the fenders. A few scratches and a life lesson. I also ran a loader and bulldozer clearing a ski area. We simply pushed the trees over with the blade or bucket, let the weight of the tree pull out the stump and then cleaned up with the blade. Cut the tree after you get it out of the dirt.Due to the Louisiana drought this year (still happening), I’ve lost maybe 50 Leyland Cypress trees about 25 years old. I also lost a couple magnolias we planted at the same time which are clearly not coming back.
I’ve pulled the cypress before because after a year of being dead their roots are really weak so this will be my spring task.
The question is what gives me the most pulling power - is it best to pull backwards from the bucket end with a chain, or pull from the back end with a chain on the box blade?
With the box blade I can sometimes push on the tree to lean it one way, then use the chain to pull it out from the stump behind me.
Obviously I’d always like to push away so the tree doesn’t fall towards me but I believe I get more power with my L3200 by pulling but not sure if pulling from the back or front is best.
I have bent the frame of my box blade by pushing a too big tree trunk. Box blade is designed to pull / push with the bottom edge, NOT the top which was where that big round was touching since I wanted it to roll not skid.Actually, after reading this I will probably just avoid bolt-on or welded hooks altogether, yank these first with the drawbar, then remount the box blade for pushing. This may also help me make it to my next birthday.
Nothing wrong with hooks on FEL bucket as long as you use them for lifting within its lift range , I have put them on every tractor I have owned but I would never pull on trees with them but they are pretty handy for other uses and even light pulling . I also put one on both sides of the bucket so I can rig the chain to the center of the bucket so it balances the pull .The reason I asked the question is a I see a lot small tractors with grab hooks on the FEL, either bolt-on or welded. Is it just good marketing spin from the seller or is it really a legit way of pulling? I know shoving into it isn't the way as I just popped the seals on my FEL boom cylinders from doing something stupid causing them both to leak.
The drawbar is probably the only way I haven't tried in 25 years. But it's probably because I use the box blade right away to push away whatever I yank out and that is in the way of the drawbar. I don't really want to leave stumps by just cutting the dead trees so yanking them is my best option. (I wish I had a backhoe but my L3200 is the most powerful tractor I have for this task).
As rigid as a box blade is I could probably weld a hook near the center between the middle tines. That would put me at drawbar height though the chain would go over the top of the blade to the rear for CG balance. I'm on level ground for this and will use a low-and-slow gear so I don't think I'll have to worry about tipping over.
Would I get the most leverage from lifting up and away? Or with my chain wrapped on the base close to the ground?