pinemountainman
Member
I had same that problem, Thats when I used the wax. Watch out it may fall right off like mine did.
removing stump jumper
- Thread starter DTCOOPER
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RobJ
Elite Member
BillyP said:
Sometimes, my BIL had a mid 70's I think BH bought with an L175, splin shaft, we removed the nut about 3 years ago (so long I think we lost the nut now). Still on there. This unit was also so old it didn't have a top access hole to remove the blades, so I cut one in the deck. You can tell if it's a spline by looking at it, like others said try and bang down from the top. If it's tapered turn it on it's side. But a wood block or aluminum hammer on the shaft and bang with a sledge. Eventually it'll slip, some heat may help but you have to watch the seals and not overheat. This is the way I had to remove the flywheels on some large Wisconson gas engines. Wisconson even sold the 2 and 3# aluminum hammers as a part. I still have one of each. Softer than a brass hammer.
Rob
Soundguy
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I thought aluminum was harder ( more brittle than brass? )
in any case.. I like a copper maul..
Really no way to mar a iron / steel casting or plating with a brass, aluminum or copper maul.. unless it is a thin delicate webbing.
Soundguy
in any case.. I like a copper maul..
Really no way to mar a iron / steel casting or plating with a brass, aluminum or copper maul.. unless it is a thin delicate webbing.
Soundguy
JerryG
Super Member
We cast some lead hammers for things like that one time. I still have one that I use once in while. It works great for stuck things and doesn't mar or flare out the end of the shaft.
RobJ
Elite Member
Soundguy said:
Maybe these are softer. Both have mushromed out over the years and sometimes they do chip with a miss blow so it is more brittle. I still have my brass hammer from the 70's and other than some nicks and dents it's pretty good shape. Comparing these 2 the brass is harder than the aluminum.
Rob
VAChesterfield
Bronze Member
I was faced with the same challenge of taking off the stump jumper on my King Kutter rough cut mower so I could tighten the four bolts which hold the gear box to the deck. I decided to call King Kutter and the rep I spoke to was very helpful and explained how best to handle this little problem -- and it worked like a charm.
1. Turn the deck on its side.
2. Remove cotter pin and the castellated nut.
3. Turn the castellated nut over and put it back on so that the bottom of the nut is flush with the bottom of the drive shaft.
5. Whack the nut and shaft with a good sized hammer. I used a small sledge and one hit broke the stump jumper loose.
6. Remove the castellated nut and stump jumper.
I asked the KK rep why this procedure wasn't captured in the User's manual and was told -- "Well, we can't get everything in there".
1. Turn the deck on its side.
2. Remove cotter pin and the castellated nut.
3. Turn the castellated nut over and put it back on so that the bottom of the nut is flush with the bottom of the drive shaft.
5. Whack the nut and shaft with a good sized hammer. I used a small sledge and one hit broke the stump jumper loose.
6. Remove the castellated nut and stump jumper.
I asked the KK rep why this procedure wasn't captured in the User's manual and was told -- "Well, we can't get everything in there".
huntingnmore
New member
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hello,just tried this procedure it worked great thanks alot. now if can only remove or tighten the blades any ideas????
RobJ
Elite Member
OK for real I'm NOT kidding. Put the stump jumper back on. Look for a blade access nut in the deck of the mower. If it does NOT have one then drill, bore, burn one in the deck. Next time you can just take the blades off and leave the jimper on.
Then I use a crow bar in the PTO shoft to hold it while I loosen it. I have a 3/4" drive nut for this and a long breaker bar. Hard to hold it just sitting on the ground.
Good Luck,
Rob
foggy1111
Elite Member
Thanks for this post. I have loose gear box bolts too and need to get at 'em by removing the stump jumper. Was wondering how that was going to work out for me.
Hopefully mine goes as smoothly as yours did. I don't understand that KK doesn't put lock nuts or lock washers here.....they put 'em most other places. I'm going to either put on lock washers or double nut em.
kebo
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I DO have an air impact hammer.. I'll give that a shot this afternoon. Best case, it'll break free and slide off. Worst case, my dentist will make some money next week when I go to have the loose fillings replaced.
If I JUST had to sharpen the blades, I would do as others have suggested and do them on the deck.. but needing to tighten the loose gear head housing, warrants removing the stump jumper.
Who knows, when I get the stump jumper off, I might just replace the blades all together. I know they're knicked up considerably. And any attempt to grind them off enough to get rid of the knicks, might make them unbalanced.
Always something right ?
Really, unless you go to the trouble of balancing the stumpjumper pan, grinding the blades enough to sharpen them will more than likely make no discernible difference in the operation of the mower. Think about the pto shaft too, do you think yours shaft is balanced and true?
If you really wanted to, you could grind the blades sharp, then weigh the blades individually on an accurate scale. Then start grinding some more on the heaviest blade of the pair until they evened out.
