Rod size for euro hooks

[650gSatoh]

Hi Guys,

Just wondering what rod size I should use for welding euro hook ends (cat 1) onto my Kubota l2501 lift arms?

I have some 3/32 7014. They will be beveled and I will do multi passes. I've never welded anything this thick before. I don't have a rod oven.

Feel free to give me any handy tips/advice. What amps? My welder is 110/220v.

Once they are tacked up do I weld the length of the joint 1 side and then go straight to the next? Then just keep repeating, side for side? Or do I need to let it cool down some, other than the time it takes to clean the welds?

 

[Cycledude]

I recommend taking them to a good experienced welder to get the job done right the first time, you definitely don’t want to experience one getting broke loose that could be very expensive.

 

[ruffdog]

I agree with CD that this job is not the one to goof up on. That being said, using 3/32 6011 as a root passes and 1/8 7018 cover passes would be my choice. Don't rush it and take time to clean between passes so it can cool a bit.

 

[ptsg]

On the ends I've welded before, I did a root pass with 3/32 6013 rods, then finished off with 2 or 3 passes with 1/8 6013 rods.

Can't tell the amps because the pointer on my old rectifier welder got bent at some point and it's not really accurate. I go by experience and feel most of the times.

 

[650gSatoh]

I recommend taking them to a good experienced welder to get the job done right the first time, you definitely don’t want to experience one getting broke loose that could be very expensive.

Best way to get experience is doing, but thanks for your concern.

 

[650gSatoh]

I agree with CD that this job is not the one to goof up on. That being said, using 3/32 6011 as a root passes and 1/8 7018 cover passes would be my choice. Don't rush it and take time to clean between passes so it can cool a bit.

Thanks for the rod recommendation. I see 6011 is better for deep penetration in thick metal.

 

[650gSatoh]

On the ends I've welded before, I did a root pass with 3/32 6013 rods, then finished off with 2 or 3 passes with 1/8 6013 rods.

Can't tell the amps because the pointer on my old rectifier welder got bent at some point and it's not really accurate. I go by experience and feel most of the times.

Thanks.

From quick research it looks like 6013 is similar but doesn't have as much penetration as the 7014 I have?

So far the front runner is the 6011 for the root and then I can finish off with my 7014.

 

[ptsg]

Thanks.

From quick research it looks like 6013 is similar but doesn't have as much penetration as the 7014 I have?

So far the front runner is the 6011 for the root and then I can finish off with my 7014.

Either one is perfectly fine for this application. The reason I mostly use 6013, it's because that's what I can easily buy on any hardware store close by for a good price.

 

[5030]

Sounds like a weiner welder (110-220) to me. Also sounds like you are imexperienced at welding (sucessfully), heavy gage anythin. I'd take it to a competent weld shop myself. I rarely stick weld anthing today unless it's outside where shielding gas is not ideal and if I do it. I use my Linclon Engine drive ac/dc SMAW welder and run DC. All my heavy gage welding inside is multiple pass shielding gas high amperage MIG with .030 wire.

Good luck, I suspect you'll need it.

 

[lostcause]

I'm pretty sure you can accomplish the task without an engine drive welder. that's the same kind of opinion as someone who will try to tell you you need a 3500 cummins and a gooseneck to safely haul a BX around. That said, I probably wouldn't attempt this kind of task if i only had access to 110 power and welder, but I'd be surprised to find any welder running on 220 that isn't more than capable of doing the job. don't let the welding snobs get any traction - it's bragging rights as much as anything else. do more with less when you need to. I'm a believer in the hold my beer while i try this school. Just find some scrap to get used to the welder, rod, and thick metal if you've never done anything like that before. keep turning it up until you get satisfactory results. Back in the day on my grandfather's farm, everything was done with an AC only welder and 1/8" 6011. to quote my granfather, with that combo, you could weld rusty farm equipment through 1/4" of cow @#$!

 

[CalG]

With a small welder, duty cycle might bite you if you push too much too quickly.

I would use 1/8" 6013 all day long, because that's what I've got.
If your rod has been sitting around, put it in the toaster oven on 450 for an hour. Might save some spatter mess.

Don't be afraid to put on some preheat. Even a propane burner can get large sections warm enough to help a lot when it comes to penetration etc. But if the joint is prepped well, penetration is not your concern. More important will to get a nice smooth fill without slag inclusions that will play the devil with subsequent passes. And for chipping slag, GET IT WHILE IT"S HOT!

Follow the advice given and run a couple of 3 inch long passes on some 1/2 inch or thicker scrap before you start on the lift arms.

And if things don't look so good when you are done, well, just grind out the ugly and make another pass!

Slow and steady, Keep you attention on the puddle!

eta

The only drawback about using small diameter filler is that you won't make a full pass with one rod. Not really an issue, just one extra thing to pay attention to.
Heck, An 1/8" filler rod might not do a cap pass.

 

[650gSatoh]

I'm pretty sure you can accomplish the task without an engine drive welder. that's the same kind of opinion as someone who will try to tell you you need a 3500 cummins and a gooseneck to safely haul a BX around. That said, I probably wouldn't attempt this kind of task if i only had access to 110 power and welder, but I'd be surprised to find any welder running on 220 that isn't more than capable of doing the job. don't let the welding snobs get any traction - it's bragging rights as much as anything else. do more with less when you need to. I'm a believer in the hold my beer while i try this school. Just find some scrap to get used to the welder, rod, and thick metal if you've never done anything like that before. keep turning it up until you get satisfactory results. Back in the day on my grandfather's farm, everything was done with an AC only welder and 1/8" 6011. to quote my granfather, with that combo, you could weld rusty farm equipment through 1/4" of cow @#$!

Exactly...How does anyone learn without the actual doing. My little 220v welder can accomplish the task and I've welded 3/8 metal with it.

 

[650gSatoh]

With a small welder, duty cycle might bite you if you push too much too quickly.

I would use 1/8" 6013 all day long, because that's what I've got.
If your rod has been sitting around, put it in the toaster oven on 450 for an hour. Might save some spatter mess.

Don't be afraid to put on some preheat. Even a propane burner can get large sections warm enough to help a lot when it comes to penetration etc. But if the joint is prepped well, penetration is not your concern. More important will to get a nice smooth fill without slag inclusions that will play the devil with subsequent passes. And for chipping slag, GET IT WHILE IT"S HOT!

Follow the advice given and run a couple of 3 inch long passes on some 1/2 inch or thicker scrap before you start on the lift arms.

And if things don't look so good when you are done, well, just grind out the ugly and make another pass!

Slow and steady, Keep you attention on the puddle!

eta

The only drawback about using small diameter filler is that you won't make a full pass with one rod. Not really an issue, just one extra thing to pay attention to.
Heck, An 1/8" filler rod might not do a cap pass.

Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I will pick up a 2lb box of 1/8 rod as a filler also, seeing as I will be at the store and it's cheap.

It's not like I asked how to weld a hitch on a trailer or something that could put a life at risk.

I've welded plenty of stuff and nothing has broken, just nothing so thick. My welds aren't pretty enough to start a social media page but I get by.

 

[Jack Wolf]

If 7014 is all you've got, you can make it work with proper beveling and multiple passes, but it's not ideal for deep penetration. I'd recommend using 3/32 6011 for root and 1/8 7018 for cover passes if possible. Also, alternate sides between passes to control heat and avoid distortion.

 

[650gSatoh]

If 7014 is all you've got, you can make it work with proper beveling and multiple passes, but it's not ideal for deep penetration. I'd recommend using 3/32 6011 for root and 1/8 7018 for cover passes if possible. Also, alternate sides between passes to control heat and avoid distortion.

Thanks.

I'm going to buy some 6011. The hooks come pre beveled and I will match it on the arms.

Can you please explain why a 3/32 for the root? From thickness tables etc and some googling I see 1/8 recommended.

 

[workinonit]

Good grief guys, he's welding hooks on a tractor not repairing a reactor vessel. I would mig it if it were mine but weld it with what you have and give it a good test afterward. I know if my welds are good or bad as soon as I lay them down.

 

[650gSatoh]

Good grief guys, he's welding hooks on a tractor not repairing a reactor vessel. I would mig it if it were mine but weld it with what you have and give it a good test afterward. I know if my welds are good or bad as soon as I lay them down.

I have a 220v hobart mig and I do the majority of my welding with it.

I thought stick would be preferred in this instance due to the thickness. I was going to tack it with my mig and stick finish.

 

[650gSatoh]

I have a 220v hobart mig and I do the majority of my welding with it.

I thought stick would be preferred in this instance due to the thickness. I was going to tack it with my mig and stick finish.

My mig is only 175amp so that may be a little small in this instance.

 

[5030]

You don't need an engine drive. I have one for field weldinng only. You do need a welder that has sufficient output to effectuate good pemetration and that isn't a 110-220 box. If I was doing it, I'd remove the lift arms, take them inside and wire weld them with high amperage MIG with shielding gas and and soild or flux cored wire. Sounds like a 'Globular Transfer' job to me with proper pre prep, root and cover passes. To effecuate efficient glubular tranfer you need at least 220 amps at the nozzle and no 110-220 welder can attain that output.

 

[WranglerX]

Just do it with what you have, time will tell you how good you really are..... JUst about everything I weld is with 120V 140Amp Hobart handler with .030 wire and shield gas.... If its not pretty enough for you grind it out and do it again....