tiredguy
Member
Unfortunate but most always true, gonna play gonna pay and hopefully the gains are always better than the losses.
Al
Tires Say WHAT!!
- Thread starter DT86
- Start date
Unfortunate but most always true, gonna play gonna pay and hopefully the gains are always better than the losses.
Al
tommu56
Elite Member
I cant tell how big the hole is but I got 12-14 plugs doubled up in my BX23 rear tire from being cut by the shale it use to leak slowly after that.
Step 2 was to pump a gallon of slime in to it is fine now, I know yours are filled but I'd try it.
Rob 3RRL Sowed one of his up and put a patch (called a tire boot) over the repair than a tube in it I wouldn't hesitate to try.
tom
Step 2 was to pump a gallon of slime in to it is fine now, I know yours are filled but I'd try it.
Rob 3RRL Sowed one of his up and put a patch (called a tire boot) over the repair than a tube in it I wouldn't hesitate to try.
tom
To answer a few questions... within 1 mile I have two friends with pallet forks and tractors or skid steers large enough to handle the tire once it's off. It's just going to be a major PITA to get the wheel weights and the cast center off with hand tools.
The wheel weights are held on by four studs each (probably carriage head) and the cast center is held on by eight carriage head bolts with the nuts on the inside of the wheel. It is gonna suck but it aint gonna fix its self.
I have a set of 1" drive sockets with a nice long cheater bar so as soon as I can rally a few friends I'll get going on it. It'll probably cost me a case of adult beverages but it will be worth it. After all the service truck is a 2 hour min at $70+ a hour and it's too muddy for him to get back there anyway.
After all that I'll haul it down to the shop to see if they can patch it or put it in a mold. If worse comes to worse the link that Code54 mentioned does list my size in a blemished condition. If its a radial will be the only question there.
The wheel weights are held on by four studs each (probably carriage head) and the cast center is held on by eight carriage head bolts with the nuts on the inside of the wheel. It is gonna suck but it aint gonna fix its self.
I have a set of 1" drive sockets with a nice long cheater bar so as soon as I can rally a few friends I'll get going on it. It'll probably cost me a case of adult beverages but it will be worth it. After all the service truck is a 2 hour min at $70+ a hour and it's too muddy for him to get back there anyway.
After all that I'll haul it down to the shop to see if they can patch it or put it in a mold. If worse comes to worse the link that Code54 mentioned does list my size in a blemished condition. If its a radial will be the only question there.
escavader
Veteran Member
Do you think you could get another tractor out there and chain up to lift ,the pressure off that tire and walk it back to the barn? We do it all the time with large industrial forklifts and bucket loaders
ALAN
ALAN
I just don't know of anyone with enough iron to lift the rear of this thing, even if it was just one side.
Mounted Madness
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Messages
- 418
- Location
- Cobble Hill, British Columbia
- Tractor
- 2014 BX2370 as of today
I know your first task is to get wheel/tire off the machine. Before ordering a new tire though, I'd suggest you look at the 'repair magic' you referred to earlier.
Saw a program a while ago where repairs are done to the very costly tires used on those open pit mine trucks. It isn't a patch, it is litterly a repair that rebuilds from the inside out. The repair is vulcanized and is as strong as the original tire.
If that is what your tire repair guy is selling, I'd go for it without hesitation.
Good luck. :thumbsup:
Saw a program a while ago where repairs are done to the very costly tires used on those open pit mine trucks. It isn't a patch, it is litterly a repair that rebuilds from the inside out. The repair is vulcanized and is as strong as the original tire.
If that is what your tire repair guy is selling, I'd go for it without hesitation.
Good luck. :thumbsup:
MHarryE
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
- Messages
- 2,949
- Location
- Northeastern Minnesota
- Tractor
- Kubota M7-171, M5-111, SVL75-2, RTV900XT & GR2120; CaseIH 1680 combine
Remember that whatever you do as a repair the tire will not be as strong in that area as it originally was. You can see in your picture the torn cord and there is no repair that will make the cord fuse back together. Maybe not a big thing depending on how hard you use your tractor. Radials your size don't come cheap.
MHarryE
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
- Messages
- 2,949
- Location
- Northeastern Minnesota
- Tractor
- Kubota M7-171, M5-111, SVL75-2, RTV900XT & GR2120; CaseIH 1680 combine
Texas Fella
Silver Member
Have you tried KTAC (you said that you might). If they will cover it, they will cover the hauling or cover a tire guy to come out and take it off, or what ever is needed (from my experiance). If they will cover it, it will cost you your $250 deductable and that is it. If you have already tried them (and said so on here) I missed it and I am sorry about bring it up again.
Just got off the phone with them. The first question she asked was if I had axle or fender damage as a result of the same indecent. Bad news guys, KTAC will not cover just the tires unless there is other damage. It was worth a shot.
I was pleasantly surprised that the tire shop called early this morning to follow up. We talked about options and he believes a section repair is my best bet.
Friday help will be available to remove it in the field. Three guys, 1" drive sockets w/cheater bar and a 115hp CaseIH with pallet forks. Wish us luck. Pics to follow.