Smoking #1 cylinder on My Ford 3000 Diesel

[Dataway]

From the diagram it looks like that seal goes in the bottom groove of the valve ....towards the bottom of the rotator.... notice that the other valve does not have the additional groove.

Since a knowledgable diesel owner mentioned that diesels don't have vacume at the intake valve, I would have to agree that it's unlikely enough oil would be passed at the valve to cause your problems.

I also agree that the oil ring on that piston looks quite small for the size of the piston, even with a decent size gap showing. I wonder if it's possible that it's the wrong size oil ring ....did it install in a similar manner to the others? Or was it more difficult? If you don't remember ...it probably means it was not more difficult

There are only two places that oil can get into that cylinder.... past the rings, or past the valves/guides, so your search is at least a limited one. ( I am assuming on this engine it would not be possible for oil to get into the intake manifold up stream of the intake valve ....again a diesel mechanic would come in handy here

JohnnyB

 

[sd455dan]

Hi Dan. Thanks for replying. I figured it must be related in some way to my oil consumption problem. I see you have a Ford 3000 also. Is it diesel? Getting a little tired of this issue. Been off and on with it since late summer last year. Eventually I'll get it figured out. North Idaho is a great area. We go to Farragut St. park every summer. Thanks again, Matt

Yes- mines a 1967 diesel with lots of hours, thinking of rebuilding it in a few years, because of the loudness of the diesel rattle, but it doesn't use oil...Farragut is fun , spent a while there as a cub scout when they had the world jamboree there when I was a kid. I actually live north of Farragut, closer to the Canadian border...

After looking at those pictures , I would pull the oil burning cylinders rings off the piston and check the compression rings end gap and either of the oil control scraper rings also . You can use the piston - turned upside down to get them in square to the bore (one at at a time ) and then check the end gap with a feeler gauge...

.004 per inch of bore is a good average #, so 4.2" x .004 = about .017" end gap for the comp rings... anything under about .060 for the oil scraper rings is possible.. You can compare the #s with the other normal cylinders, all that being said if this check doesn't show something WAY out of normal , I would have the head magnafluxed and checked for a crack or sand cast flaw in the oil burning cylinders intake port my :2cents:
that picture of the intake looks suspicious I can't help but wonder if that port has access to engine oil somehow??? oh one more thing about the valve o ring seal this is from a pontiac hi performance blueprint assembly but the information maybe helpful the part at the bottom explains why the o ring is important -the retainer and lower groove and o ring positively seal the oil from running down the valve stem... but the amount of oil your engine is burning is well beyond it...

 

[Dataway]

SD455, off the top of your head, what engines/years is that pontiac valve info applicable to? I've got a 68 GTO apart, engine will be going back together in a year or so, always looking for info and pointers
JohnnyB

 

[duroc]

The rings looked good also. Not sure how "seated" rings should look. They were loose like I had just put them on the piston. Not sure where to go from. Matt here View attachment 317168

I read all the posts, but they keep coming in, so if I said what others may have, just regard at-will.

Did you move the oil rings when you pulled the piston, or were they orientated in the bore as shown in the above picture? because they should be further away from each-other. Also, it's hard to see in the picture, but it looks like the expander ring gap is just above the lower oil ring.

Are all the rings orientation correct? Did your ring installation instructions tell you which ring goes in which ring grove? Some compression/fire rings have a taper edge on them and if installed improperly, the ring will scrape oil from the cylinder wall on the up-stroke and feed it into the combustion chamber and try to burn it. And of course there could be issues with improper ring gaps, ring to piston gap and cylinder bore taper issues.

 

[duroc]

SD455, off the top of your head, what engines/years is that pontiac valve info applicable to? I've got a 68 GTO apart, engine will be going back together in a year or so, always looking for info and pointers
JohnnyB

That should apply to your engine. But, keep in mind that the valve guide bosses might need to be machined down to accept a PC (Perfect Seal™) because 1.)they may not stay on the guide, and 2.) they will most likely hit the valve spring dampener (inner spring) and spring retainer and self destruct leaving all that rubber floating around in the engine. All in all, the PC is a good way to go for dry guides. IMHO!

 

[duroc]

I'll replace the seals and I bought some valve grinding compound if they look like they need it. Matt

I just re-read this and am wondering what you are planning to do with the valve grind compound? It's not actually a "valve grind compound", it's purpose is for lapping-in the valves to the head to ensure they will seat properly. You could use it to re-lap the valves in the head, but if you fail to remove all traces of the compound, you'll be taking that engine apart again, and it won't be pretty. Also, I noticed in the picture of the cyl-head that it appears, IMO, that it has been overhauled before. I say that because the v/guide showing appears to have been knurled, (looks like threads in the guide), at one point in time.

 

[duroc]

Going back and looking at post #1, it looks like the piston has a lot of piston to wall clearance. Does anyone else see that or is it just me. I wonder what the bore is and what piston size was purchased. Kinda looks like it's undersized to me. <shrug>

 

[mtodd101]

Hi Bill.
Thanks for joining in. When I put the rings on I followed the instructions as far as rotating the gaps. The picture show results of me handling and cleaning the oil off the see what's what. That may have moved the rings. The ring sets came in a fold out holder with labels for order and location. I'm not saying I got it right but I thought I did. Learning as I go kinda scenario. Costly and frustrating. I'm waiting on a bore gauge to check the cylinder and the go from there. At this point I'm not sure of what went wrong so Kinda going back to the beginning.

Thanks for posting. I do appreciate all the knowledge that is on this site. Matt

 

[mtodd101]

I read that if you remove a valve from the guide you need to lap the valve to seat. That's what I bought it for. As far as removing the compound I was told Brake cleaner. Is this correct.

When I removed the valve and looked into the guide and there were lines inside the guide. They didn't look like it was tapped, but the lines looked parallel. Does this mean it's been worked on before?

Thanks again for helping me out. Matt

 

[mtodd101]

Hi Bill. I'm Kinda going to begin this over by measuring the cylinder so I can determine the piston and ring sizes. Standard cylinder should be 4.2 and that is the size I ordered for the rebuild kit. We'll see. Thanks again. Matt