I used the plastic drain pipe and a couple of "T's" to solve my water line dilema as well. After running the poly line from the house and putting the last 25'-20' or so in drain line, I used a 1' poly to 3/4" cpvc threaded adapter into a cpvc 3/4" "T" to bring a 3/4" cpvc water supply line up thru a drain pipe "T" and riser. The 3/4" cpvc water supply riser will terminate aboveground in a "T", with one end feeding the wash basin in the garage and the other an outside hose bib. The poly water line extends past the water riser "T" into a cpvc ball valve using another 1" poly to 3/4" threaded adapter.
So I got a good deal on some trusses...
- Thread starter dholly
- Start date
- Views: 21616
The valve is at the lowest point in the water line run, so opening it up should drain the entire supply system for winter. It is positioned in the 2nd drain pipe "T" and accessible thru a verticle riser of drain pipe with a cap. I'll cut a slot in the end of a leftover piece of 1-1/2" Sched 40, make a handle with leftover 1" Sched 40 for a tool to slip over the valve handle thru the access hole.
Attachments
The third plastic drain line riser here simply goes into an elbow then thru solid pipe and ties into the gutter line and ultimately to the perforated main drain line. The wash basin waste line will drop into this drain line riser to take the moisture away from the slab.
Attachments
In part, with the record heat, it makes a lot of sense to build the wall sections in an air-conditioned warehouse if you can (I know, I know- what a softie! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif). Tipped onto a trailer and hauled onsite, 9' walls make for a 'Wide Load'.
Attachments
First, we temporarily secured the PT sill plate to the slab with a powder actuated gun. Then, working from left to right, we slid the first few wall sections off the trailer, squared and braced them up, then nailed the bottom. We added the top plate as we went along.
