Subcompact for hilly 3-acre

   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#21  
The majority of use will be used in a wooded area so I think I need to do some additional research on machine size/tire size/clearance also taking into consideration the competing spec of low CG for hill use. I have to balance these two things.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #22  
Hi All:

Considering a subcompact for property maintenance and landscaping projects. I have been looking at Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and currently leaning toward a MF GC1723 configured at a TLB.

My property (residential, New Jersey):
3 acre
quite hilly
rocky soil
mostly wooded

Needs/wants:
Material movement, in particular, logs, split wood, mulch, soil, gravel
Would like a BH for planting shrubs and building retaining walls, grading for shed, etc
Do not need a mid mower (walk behind fine for my small lawn)
Possible snow clearing
Fork attachment would be nice

Some of my questions are:
Will a subcompact with 23-25 hp and 4wd be adequate for the above?
What tires would be best for a hilly, wooded lot? Clearing snow form a steep driveway?
Can a BH be added later for not too much extra?

Thanks,

Brian
check out the all electric drive Solectrac CET. Full torque developed at any motor rpm. Low center of gravity. Compatible with all compact implements. solectrac.com
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #23  
The majority of use will be used in a wooded area so I think I need to do some additional research on machine size/tire size/clearance also taking into consideration the competing spec of low CG for hill use. I have to balance these two things.

One size up, like a Kubota B2301/B2601 would likely work best for your situation. I have a hilly property and the B2601 with 2" wheel spacers has proven to be a really capable and stable machine.

Mike
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #24  
Hi All:

Considering a subcompact for property maintenance and landscaping projects. I have been looking at Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and currently leaning toward a MF GC1723 configured at a TLB.

My property (residential, New Jersey):
3 acre
quite hilly
rocky soil
mostly wooded

Needs/wants:
Material movement, in particular, logs, split wood, mulch, soil, gravel
Would like a BH for planting shrubs and building retaining walls, grading for shed, etc
Do not need a mid mower (walk behind fine for my small lawn)
Possible snow clearing
Fork attachment would be nice

Some of my questions are:
Will a subcompact with 23-25 hp and 4wd be adequate for the above?
What tires would be best for a hilly, wooded lot? Clearing snow form a steep driveway?
Can a BH be added later for not too much extra?

Thanks,

Brian
Hey Brian, I’m a MF GC1725 owner and if you can find a Massey dealer that’s close enough, it’s a good bet. No BH but I agree with others that if you need it buy it with the tractor. This is my 2nd Subcompact Massey and with R4s and chains it can do a lot of work.
I think it’s better than any other brand.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #25  
I started out shopping subcompacts for 2-3 acres of hilly and partially wooded use. I quickly realized that a compact is what I really needed. A subcompact won't even pull my box blade up my gravel driveway once the box is full of material.

I'd suggest looking at the 35-40 HP compacts. Then you'll never wish you'd gotten more machine. I learned that the hard way.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #26  
Size really matters. While looking at tractors at the dealer is not the same as on your property, it is a start. SCUTs can do a lot, but they have a LOT of limitations. If you need mostly a mower and a baby tractor, a SCUT is a good choice. If you need to do you real tractor jobs, you need a real tractor. Now, there are those that will say even a 40-50HP tractor is not a real tractor. Once again, it depends on what tasks you need done and what kind of agility you need.

Very few people need the capability of Big Bud:
Big Bud 747
But, if you do, nothing smaller will satisfy you.

I don't think Big Bug would be a good choice for your needs, property, or pocketbook. I think a SCUT is too limited for what you said you wanted to do. A small CUT, like the Kubota B2601 is probably as small as you want to go (this is the small B in Kubota). The Kubota LX series is the new big B. The L series are the next size up. Then there are the M(monster) ones, but those are probably much bigger than what you want. There are lots of things that are important in tractors. For your listed needs HP is not one of those things. If you want the power for a large rotary cutter, flail mower, or snowblower, thinking about higher HP would be important. Otherwise, stay below 26ish HP and avoid the complicated emissions and DPF. Weight, loader and 3PH capacity are very important for your needs. More is generally better here and larger gets you more. Larger tractors are wider and some have better COG because of that. The small B series from Kubota is narrow. Wheel spacers would probably help. There are also comfort and feature differences in tractors. My B2620 does not have 3PH position control. The salesman was not able to explain the difference, nor did the Deere dealer. Had I known, I probably would have paid the extra $1.5K for the B2630. The 30 series has more comfort/convenience features and position control, but it is slightly bigger (taller, wider, longer, heavier). The B2601 has position control and some of the other features, so it is a good choice, if you want to stay on the small size. While many people say bigger is better, I say you really can go too big. I much prefer using smaller machines on my property and am in search of a baby tractor. For me that is one even smaller than a SCUT, so a large garden tractor. That might me three machines for my needs: mower/lawn/garden tractor, super garden tractor, small compact utility tractor. I don't often need the full capability of my CUT, but when I do nothing smaller will be big enough. With a baby tractor, I suspect it will get used more than the CUT, but less than the mower. I might be able to combine the mower and baby tractor, but I am not convinced that is a good idea.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I am not against a bigger machine, but I do need to keep size in mind for maneuverability in the woods and for storage as well. I will probably be reaching out to some dealers this week.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #28  
Agility (easier to spell and better meaning) is really hard to determine looking at the tractor at the dealer or even the spec sheet.

It may not be what you want to here, but REALLY thinking about the tasks you need to do is REALLY important. Think about the implements that will make that task possible and/or easy. You will likely end up with a list longer than you desire to pay. If it is a task that you do regularly, then having the ability to do it at a moments notice is great. If it is a task you might need to do every few years there might be cheaper/better solutions.

I thought I wanted a backhoe. I just didn't want it enough to pay the extra $7K. That $7K was much better spent (for my needs) on the chipper, grapple, QA, forks, grading scraper. Other than the forks, I have already used those things way more than I would have used the backhoe. If I really needed a backhoe, I would rent one for the weekend. That would be way cheaper and I wouldn't have to find a place to store it and/or have it in the way when I didn't need it (most of the time). There are many people that tell you a backhoe is indispensable. Multiple of my neighbors have one and I rarely see them use it. But some people might use it every week or so, I suppose. Just make sure you get one that is easy to put on and take off for when you need to use the 3PH or need some agility.

Think about how much you really need to be able to lift with the loader. My B2620 has significantly greater lift capacity than a SCUT. A 70+ foot hemlock came down in the last snow storm. Once the top half was cut off, it could no longer lift the end more than a little off the ground. But, once I got it all cut up, I was able to carry 7-8' logs (about 18" in diameter) with the grapple. The made it easy to move them where I wanted. A SCUT would not be able to do that. I would never have thought I needed to do that a decade ago. But, many of the hemlock trees are dying and no one is really sure why. So more will come down and when they block the trail something needs to be done. It is possible to use a bucket grapple or even bucket forks to do this. But that limits capacity even more and it really slows things down. If you have lots of time, that might not matter to you.

As far as agility goes turning circle is one measure. But, when you have an implement on the back (or a backhoe) and a loader in the front, you have something that is large. If your trails a really roads or even driveway sized any of the tractor sizes will be fine. If you want the woodland trail feel, the big B is probably as large as you should go, but the B2601 (small B size) or the Deere 2 series (if you like green better) are good choices. They are priced similarly (green was more $ the last time I looked) and similarly equipped. The B2601 is available with the SSQA bucket. The Deere comes with their lighter, similarly easy, but not compatible system. Many people say SSQA is better because you can find deals on skid steer attachments. That is true in some places, but those attachments eat up a LOT of lift capacity, since they are designed for MUCH more capable machines.

But, go look at the machines to get an idea of size. SCUTs are easy to step up on. Small CUTs like the B2601 are easy if you are relatively agile yourself. The big B size and larger typically need a step to make it reasonably easy to get up on the tractor. See which feels better to you. Do you like the feeling you get being so high up. How about when a low tree branch whacks you in the face? You will need the tools to take care of that even with a SCUT, so probably not a good reason to not get a big tractor.

When I went by the dealer, they were low on tractors. They had a lot of BX's with backhoes, but only one without. They had one B2601, without backhoe. They had more of the larger ones. I hear supply is tight, at least partly due to Covid-19.

Unless you really are in a hurry, take your time to make a really good decision. I see lots of lightly used SCUTs, probably because people discover they really needed a bigger tractor. On the other hand, my old neighbor had a Case 580K. It was a giant and way too big for my trails, but was okay on the driveway, which is what he used it for. But, since he has been gone I have doing fine with my B2620 on the driveway maintenance (a SCUT could probably do it, but it would probably take longer)
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #29  
I mean look, if you're looking to do a bunch of work in the woods, you're probably gonna want a grapple, which means you'll need counterweight, and you might as well have a useful implement in the back hanging there for that purpose, eg: backhoe. Now that is a useful tractor for digging and hauling stuff away. Just out of curiosity, has anybody ever mounted bigger wheels/tires on a scut such as the gc17xx?
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Would love a grapple in theory but I don't think the cost is justified for my use case. I can move rounds with the loader and larger items with the forks which would be rare since I usually cut logs where they lie. Definitely getting forks.

Had a chat with the local MF dealer and am pleased with their level of helpfulness so far. Will be trying out a CG1723EB tomorrow or Saturday to try to get a feel if it will be adequate for my property/tasks. If it seems too borderline will look up line.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #31  
^^^^
That's a very nice tractor. You're going to like it. I tested out the CG1725 before deciding on the B2601 (slightly larger tractor).

Just make sure the "size" is right for you and your requirements. It'll definitely be great in the woods, just make sure that it can perform the larger tasks that your property will demand now and in the near future.

I'm one of the guys that had to buy bigger...only 6 months after my purchase...

Mike
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#32  
The dealer has some sort of pit and pile of junk to mess around with so I should be able to get a feel for its lift capability. I'd like the smallest tractor what will meet my needs for storage and secondarily for agility (;)). Hopefully I will also be able to get a sense of the clearance and hill performance will work for me.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #33  
Agree in size, but I have 6 acres, much of that woods.
I use the BH a lot to do trenches and stumps.
Toothbar on bucket to remove bushes and move around dirt clumps.

Neighbor has a CUT and does not seem to have any advantages so far.

Live on a side of a hill and added spacers.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Toothbar is definitely on my list of accessories. I have rocky soil so will need protection on the loader and it may help digging into piles.

Will have to look into spacers as well, especially if I need chains in the winter.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #35  
^^^^
Yep, definitely recommend toothbar and spacers. I have both on my B2601.

Mike
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #36  
Would love a grapple in theory but I don't think the cost is justified for my use case. I can move rounds with the loader and larger items with the forks which would be rare since I usually cut logs where they lie. Definitely getting forks.

Had a chat with the local MF dealer and am pleased with their level of helpfulness so far. Will be trying out a CG1723EB tomorrow or Saturday to try to get a feel if it will be adequate for my property/tasks. If it seems too borderline will look up line.
Yup, I totally hear ya. Hopefully you're talking about ssqi forks, not the pin-on ones. Get shorter forks, like 42" or less. And btw, there's this add a grapple thing that you could add later to forks, it's awesome, and cheaper than a dedicated grapple.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #37  
Hi All:

Considering a subcompact for property maintenance and landscaping projects. I have been looking at Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and currently leaning toward a MF GC1723 configured at a TLB.

My property (residential, New Jersey):
3 acre
quite hilly
rocky soil
mostly wooded

Needs/wants:
Material movement, in particular, logs, split wood, mulch, soil, gravel
Would like a BH for planting shrubs and building retaining walls, grading for shed, etc
Do not need a mid mower (walk behind fine for my small lawn)
Possible snow clearing
Fork attachment would be nice

Some of my questions are:
Will a subcompact with 23-25 hp and 4wd be adequate for the above?
What tires would be best for a hilly, wooded lot? Clearing snow form a steep driveway?
Can a BH be added later for not too much extra?

Thanks,

Brian
Try renting a SCUT with BH for a long weekend and see if it suits your needs. SCUTs have limited loader capacity and I don't know your expectations regarding what you need to lift with the forks.

25-30HP should be adequate for your sized lot but if you follow the posts here and on other forums guys quickly start looking for ways to boost lift capacity because their expectations don't jive with reality.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I definitely want QA forks to maximize the load they can carry and keep the weight closer to that machine. One thing I'd like to be able to do is move pallets of dried splits. I will probably have to limit pallets to 1/3 cord dried. The dealer quoted 595 for the forks but I need to see what type they actually are.
 
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #39  
Try renting a SCUT with BH for a long weekend and see if it suits your needs. SCUTs have limited loader capacity and I don't know your expectations regarding what you need to lift with the forks.

25-30HP should be adequate for your sized lot but if you follow the posts here and on other forums guys quickly start looking for ways to boost lift capacity because their expectations don't jive with reality.

Yup. FEL lift capacity can become a big deal if you let it, but for me it just means more trips for e.g. moving dirt. For snow, I put my Bucket Expander (from bxpanded.com) for the winter, which DOUBLES the heaped capacity of the FEL. (No problem with weight, since snow is light.). And then in the summer, I put on the FEL toothbar (also from bxpanded.com), which is priceless for digging (especially for digging into a pile of dirt with rocks in it).

My Kubota BX25 came with a backhoe, and I keep it on all summer and only take it off in winter to replace it with my rear-mount blower. If you do get a BH, pay attention to digging depth (6’ on mine). I did have to hire someone with a full-sized construction BH to dig a 100’ trench in rocky soil for my water line one time (since the soil had big rocks in it), but that was cheap ($250).

And I, too, am happy with my R4 tires, as they are really tough, and traction is good enough for me.

One thing I am going to disagree with is equating lot size with tractor size. I bought my BX25 for our cottage on a 3/4 acre lot, and it has been great for getting around in tight spaces. But then we bought a 25 acre property 500 yards away, and the BX25 still does the job for me. So to me it’s not how big the property is but what you’re going to do with it. My properties are generally pretty level, and I do have to do road work with a box blade on the back, but no heavy bush work or tearing things out. Moving dirt, yes. Digging with the backhoe, yes. Holding trees with the backhoe thumb for chain sawing into lengths for firewood, yes. Carrying big rounds to the splitter with the FEL loader, yes. Pulling stuff out of the lake, yes. And it does all of these fine, and if I have a big pile of dirt to move I do have to make more trips. But other than that the BX25 is fine. And I would not upgrade, because the expense to me is simply not worth it.

On a final note, if you are going to dig out stumps with the BH, that is a tough, time-consuming job, so get a ripper tooth with a QA that you can swap out the BH bucket for. They can be bought from bxpanded.com, which has teeth, or from bro-tech.com, which is smooth and knife-like.
 
Last edited:
   / Subcompact for hilly 3-acre #40  
I have a 2010 GC2610 TLB and have dug out stumps from trees over 100' high and about 30" in diameter. The biggest two required me to use my 3/4 ton pick-up to drag them from the hole and took a whole day to do it, but I'm retired and the time isn't important. It wasn't quick, but it also dug out for the foundation of the shop I'm building, over 1000 yards of gravel moved mostly to the neighbour's property. I also moved the logs into a pile. While I couldn't lift them, with patience, I was able to drag them by lifting one end and putting rollers under. Ten years later, I'm now thankful that everyone wanted stupid prices for their worn out construction machines and my little tractor is small enough to still be useful.
 

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